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File 129592276815.jpg - (141.99KB , 716x742 , millenium_tan.jpg )
165 No. 165 [Edit]
Need help with computers? Post your questions here.

ME-tan will do her best to help (with the help of other users, ofc).
Expand all images
>> No. 166 [Edit]
I'm not that knowledgeable with computers, but would like to upgrade my current video card.
I'm currently running a ATI Radeon HD 4600.
There are indeed a lot of better cards out there, but I would like to get something with an hdmi output.

I do still worry about compatibility problems as this would be my first time sawing out parts like this, though people do tell be it should be easy to swap out the parts.
The PC is a DX4300 pre-built by the way.

I was hoping to get a nice card used off ebay for around $50-$70, from what I've seen, they can be bought there for around half of their retail value. (I don't really have a ton of money to be tossing around)

Help would be appreciated.
>> No. 167 [Edit]
I looked up your computer specs, DX4300, and it seems you have an HD 4650, which was a mid-low-range card when it got out. So yes, it is getting older for today's standards.

To upgrade you would need to buy a newer PCI-Express (PCIe) card. Everything depends on your budget. I would recommend you get an HD 6850 which is the newest mid-range ATI card (~$150) and will last you a couple years.

If your budget is only $70 it is hard to really upgrade from that. See if you can get your hands on a HD 4670 (perhaps even an HD 5670) or Geforce 9800GT which are good cards for their price.

Tom's hardware has a "best GC for the money" every month, so you can check that too:,2834-2.html
>> No. 168 [Edit]
Forgot to say. All of this cards have HDMI, except for 9800GT which only a few models have. Your best bet is an HD4670.
>> No. 169 [Edit]
Thanks a ton, I'll be sure to check them out!
>> No. 170 [Edit]
a 9800GT is a high-end card brah, i don't think you're gonna find one cheap. maybe on amazon, but to find one with HDMI, that's gonna get a bit pricey
>> No. 171 [Edit]
9800GT *was* an high-end card, now you can find them for as low as 60 dollars. It's better to get an HD 5670 rather than an 9800GT so you'll get DirectX 11 and HDMI support.
>> No. 172 [Edit]
really? cause I have an 8600GT (which is below a 9800GT) and it's actually good (pretty much the only reason I can play modern games on this pile). I guess the geforce series of cards must be getting dated then.

also, a bit of a tip to the guy looking for a card with an hdmi, if you can't find a card in your budget with and HDMI out, you could get an adapter that can change the DVI to HDMI.
>> No. 173 [Edit]
File 129750427895.png - (103.42KB , 828x1111 , build.png )
I suppose this would be the place to post about this. Know a few people on here have experience building PC's and this is my first time building my own.

Looking to upgrade to this in a few days, though I want to run it by some other people who know more about these things than I do since I'm bound to overlook something I could have gotten better for the price or just fuck something up in general in choosing parts.

Budget is $800 for this (just computer, not mouse/speakers/monitor/etc). I will mostly surf the internet/watch videos but I also want to do some gaming hence the 6850, which is a good mid range card now from what I've gathered and should last me for a good while and then I can either upgrade it or crossfire. And on the x6 is it really worth it? I hear most games don't use more than 4 cores although looking at i7 that gets out of my budget range and I hear they just beat out i5's in performance. I figured since it beat out the i5 and was the best price:performance within my budget (that I know of) it'd be best to get, plus it'd get faster with time in games as they eventually start using more cores.

Lastly of things I (think) I know about, on the mobo there it seems a lot of people were getting ones that didn't support the x6's, due to old bios version on the board when they bought it. Though some say it just show up as unrecognized and a lot slower and to fix it they had to flash it. If I got unlucky and got one of the boards with an old bios would I be able to flash the bios with it not being recognized? If it just doesn't recognize the name and doesn't operate it properly then it'd be easy to flash to fix it, but if not that'd force me to get another board or processor to flash it so it'd actually work.
>> No. 174 [Edit]
I'd rather buy a gun or some neat hardware tools than a new pc.
>> No. 175 [Edit]

Considering this one is 5 years old and barely runs web browsers. I desperately need a new one.
>> No. 176 [Edit]
I wish I could build a computer, but I'm so afraid of things going wrong. I like having a place I can call and say "fix it" when anything fucks up. I'll probably try to build my next one/upgrade the one I have now myself, but that won't be for another 3 years when my warranty is up.
>> No. 177 [Edit]

Building a computer is seriously so easy. Just purchase the right parts, and they simply just pop into each other and a few wires go here and there. Power it up, install Windows or whatever, install the drivers you get with the hardware and that's it.
>> No. 178 [Edit]
That's what I hear, but still I like having a safety net. Having my computer just up and die on me and having no idea why and nothing I could do about it isn't a scenario I want to be in
>> No. 179 [Edit]

You can still take a home built computer to a repair shop, you know.
>> No. 180 [Edit]
Assembling in it self might be easy once you get the right parts, but the main problem I think with first time computer builders is knowing which parts to buy in the first place, which parts will fit in the case together and if they're compatible.
I'd say it's very easy for someone to accidentally buy the wrong parts that don't fit together because they have the wrong ports/connections.
>> No. 181 [Edit]
That would require me to leave the house
>> No. 182 [Edit]
Looks fine to me. Although hexa-cores don't really have any benefits right now and in most benches a good quad-core comes usually first, except if you're doing heavy video transcoding and those sort of things. I'd get a better video card and an X4 965 BE instead for heavy gaymen. This build is fine as it is though, it should last you a few years.
>> No. 183 [Edit]
File 130071823510.jpg - (249.91KB , 1024x769 , acer-aspire-one-d255-01.jpg )
Does anyone on Tohno-chan know a thing or two about netbooks? I could use one for college but I'm indecisive as hell. It needs to have good battery (>3 hours) and not exceed $300. I was looking at the Aspire One D255 (pic) recently and it had great looks but I'm not sure it's the best I can get for the money or if I should wait and get a laptop of some sort.
>> No. 184 [Edit]
This is weird, because I just got a Samsung netbook yesterday. I don't have that many options about the make where I live, but it seems pretty okay. 200gb hard drive, 2gb ram, 6+ hour battery life. I plan on keeping this computer just for work and "clean", so if a family member wants to use it for whatever reason I don't have to worry about them finding anything I don't want them to see.
>> No. 185 [Edit]
Alright, this may sound dumb, but here goes.

Something inside my main computer broke and it all stopped working. Won't power on, so I assume it's the battery or something.

Instead of fixing it, I'm gonna build a new one. If I move the hard drive over from the old one to the new one, will it basically work the same?
>> No. 186 [Edit]
I don't know anything about computers (like at all), but I assume stuff like drivers would be an issue.
>> No. 187 [Edit]
Well, at least you admit you're dumb.

But yes, unless it's a hard drive failure (which it doesn't sound like it), you can put the hard drive in any other computer and it will run fine.

Also, it may not be the case, but if you have the older IDE hard drives, ensure the jumper is set right if you intend on buying a new hard drive with your new computer.
>> No. 188 [Edit]

Hm, alright. Thanks guys.
>> No. 189 [Edit]
Uh, no it won't. When windows boots, it'll be using the drivers for your old motherboard, so you'll bluescreen every boot.
>> No. 190 [Edit]
File 130222388370.jpg - (25.68KB , 318x322 , YES.jpg )
You mean....I was right about something!? Something computer-related!?
>> No. 191 [Edit]

You know, you can just put the old hard drive as a slave and boot the computer with the new one, keeping all your data.
>> No. 192 [Edit]
That you can do, you just can't boot off the old harddrive on the new computer. You'd have to install a fresh OS on the new harddrive. But he said "battery", so I think it's a laptop, which means no port for a second harddrive, so he'd have to get some external case or something.
>> No. 193 [Edit]
My computer won't start. I left it running for a while and it automatically went to sleep, when I came back and tried to wake it up it started for a second but the light on the front stayed flashing and nothing would display on my monitor and I couldn't get if to Start up again. So I turned it off by holding down the power button, when i started it again it tried to resume from the last time so I was still logged in and the Internet was still open but it was running very slow and eventually just froze. I then had to turn it off again using the power button and now the computer won't start at all. It's completely unresponsive, there is a green light in the back that is on (solid colour, not flashing), but other than that nothing.

I don't know what to do, my computer is basically my life and everything I've read says it's a power supply issue, but is there anything otherthan that it might be? If if is a power supply issue how expensive is that to fix and can I do it myself?
>> No. 194 [Edit]
Go ahead and ignore this post. I was able to get a power supply from an old computer my dad had lying around and everything seems to be fine now.
>> No. 195 [Edit]
I was linked to this thread since i was not aware it existed.
so i was in the market to buying a new internal drive and I notice some of them list their spin speeds as "intellispin" which I later learn was just marketing babble for 5400 rpm.
so has anyone here who have used 5400 rpm drives noticed any drop in performance when playing animu?
>> No. 196 [Edit]
Is it for a laptop? You should have no problems anyway, newer 5400rpm HDDs are pretty fast even faster than some of the older 7200rpm we had. Rotational speed is a big factor in finding the data on the disks and transferring it, so of course a 7200 would be best but you're totally fine with a 5400 and watching animu since the transfer rate of the disk is way higher than it is needed for video playback.

I have a 5400 in one of my laptops and it plays everything fine. The only thing that can limit you in watching videos is your CPU/graphics card and its ability to decode HD streams. I can barely watch 720p vids.
>> No. 197 [Edit]
its a desktop
defualt drive is 500 GB thats more than enough room for whatver i want to install
I just want that 2 TB for animu
>> No. 199 [Edit]
Disable sharing on the printer.
Print from the computer the printer is installed on.
Disable printer's advanced features.
Reinstall drivers if needed.
>> No. 200 [Edit]
what is PCI express 2.0 and would it work in a regular PCI express slot?
>> No. 201 [Edit]
PCIe is a slot on your motherboard, usually used for graphic cards. It should be compatible with 2.0 cards but of course that's going to bottleneck whatever you install on it, since 2.0 has a bandwidth of 500MB/s while 1.x only 250.
>> No. 202 [Edit]
It should not matter. Though PCI-E 2.0 is usually only for video, but anything that's PCI-E that's put into a PCI-E port will work, even putting an x1 card into an x16 slot will work.

Actually, PCI-E x16 is mainly graphics cards, PCI-E x1 to x8 could be anything.
>> No. 203 [Edit]
I want to upgrade my CPU but I have never done it before, I've only done graphics cards, RAM, and hard drives. I've done some research and can at least figure out which ones are compatible with my motherboard, but should I risk trying to install it myself? I am very wary since I heard the CPU was one of the toughest parts to deal with.
>> No. 204 [Edit]
There should be no problems if you're careful. Make sure you have thermal paste and apply it uniformly and very thinly across the surface.
>> No. 205 [Edit]
File 130330759167.png - (200.41KB , 1366x768 , retarded question.png )
I want the navigationbar intertwine with the tab as one instead of being separate.
May look silly

Windows 7 OS.
>> No. 206 [Edit]
Theres no need to spread thermal paste unless using a CPU cooler with exposed heatpipes. A pea sized blob will be spread by the pressure, and spreading will end up with air bubbles in between the cooler and the CPU which will increase temperatures.

The actual CPU die below the heatspreader is much smaller, so if only 75% of the surface is covered by a circle of thermal paste spread out by the pea method, it will have little no effect on temperatures because there is nothing generating heat on the outside edges.

Anyways, stock CPU coolers that are bundled with CPUs nowadays come with some shitty thermal paste pre-applied, which is perfectly fine for standard voltage.
>> No. 207 [Edit]
That's some major programming you're looking at there to change that. Though I see where you're going, and I could actually get to like that.
>> No. 208 [Edit]
File 130445981564.jpg - (169.65KB , 800x600 , 9847.jpg )
Using MS paint ,is there an easy way for me to simply copy the RGB color values that are in an event CG?
>> No. 209 [Edit]
File 13044598835.jpg - (83.67KB , 800x600 , 5815.jpg )
You see , I want to color Lamia the same shade of green that Aruru is,but I don't know how. Here is a feeble attempt to try and show what I mean.
>> No. 210 [Edit]
you'd have to use photoshop for something like that
>> No. 211 [Edit]
File 130446206774.jpg - (252.65KB , 800x600 , modif.jpg )
Did a pretty sloppy job, and I had a hard time getting the exact color, but here you go.
>> No. 212 [Edit]
File 130446218572.jpg - (252.57KB , 800x600 , modif2.jpg )
Now without green lipstick!
>> No. 213 [Edit]
File 130449073511.png - (1.17MB , 1280x2400 , 1275373438619.png )
Same technique.
>> No. 214 [Edit]
OK, so my vacation from college starts tomorrow ,but only lasts 4 weeks [summer school ;_;]. I can finally download eroge this summer since my parents finally upgraded past dial-up last year. What sort of programs should I download to download eroge and where should I look? P2P like bittorrent is out.
Also what sort of antivirus protection should I be using. Im running Windows XP right now ,and have spybot and AVG-free installed ,however I've heard that AVG will identify legitimate eroge bought from websites as a virus in a false positive. Is there something else better and free I can use?
>> No. 215 [Edit]
If you can't use bittorrent, your only other option that I know of would be to download a split .rar file, piece by piece, from megaupload or a similar site. Search for eroge names on 4chan's /rs/, or google something like "hongfire (eroge name)" and there might be megaupload links in there.
>> No. 216 [Edit]
What about eroge download ? Is there a program that you need to use it ...J something?
>> No. 217 [Edit]
JDownloader? Yeah, but you can also do it by hand.
>> No. 219 [Edit]
File 130560969277.png - (44.93KB , 176x168 , 1275519940226.png )
I just spent $600 on computer hardware even though I didn't really need it. Now I feel bad for spending so much money on this. What do I do?
>> No. 220 [Edit]
you can post it to me if you want
>> No. 221 [Edit]
File 130561053375.jpg - (127.27KB , 800x450 , gottomodo.jpg )

Go look for a lot of old monitors and emulate a lot of games at the same time.
>> No. 222 [Edit]
if it was me I'd probably starve myself by eating instant noodles for a while to make up for the waste.

anyway I just bought a new computer for my dad today. his old one came up with a blue screen of death then it wouldnt boot, it was just a blank screen with no POST beeps. I put a different graphics card in there but it didnt work. I'm guessing its bad RAM or perhaps a hard drive crash? or power supply?
I figured it was just easier to buy another refurbished computer on ebay instead of trying to fix it, it was just a shitty pentium 4 or something so I'm getting him a cheap dual core now.
>> No. 223 [Edit]
File 130581258357.gif - (142.47KB , 320x180 , 1282841832881.gif )
I received my stuff and the motherboard was defective. Didn't even POST. They want me to pay $25 to send it back.

I knew I shouldn't have bought MSI, they got absolutely no quality control. I feel even worse now. Ugh.
>> No. 224 [Edit]
>they got absolutely no quality control
Pretty much. With the current MB brand availability it's tough to go wrong, with mostly Asus and Gigabyte boards on the shelves; unless you choose MSI... I don't know why they're still in the game with their lousy quality/service reputation.

You can do your investation justice by utilizing your extra juice (when you get your new board). Even if you say you don't strictly need it, you can still have some fun with it. Hey, I run a low power cluster as a file server. Either of those nodes would suffice in itself, but creating systems and building up redundancy is fun. I'm not that into going state of the art with a single desktop, and a $600 windows box can be very reasonable concidering what you usually get for that price. If you go futher than that, you're looking at a poorer performance/price ratio.
>> No. 225 [Edit]
File 13058239518.png - (81.38KB , 674x532 , hurp.png )
I guess I got lucky with my motherboard, but I wouldn't be surprised if it died on me in a few months.
>> No. 227 [Edit]
If your chipset temperatures are fine, i.e. doesn't boil your skin on touch, and you don't overclock - you should be good.

MSI boards tend to get good reviews, because your average reviewer won't test reliability sufficiently, and usually sport good spec for their asking price. It's in times like these that end-user feedback actually matters.
>> No. 228 [Edit]
Not sure if this is related to this thread, but here goes:

I'm getting a new external drive, however I'm torn between a pre-built HDD or a combination of internal + enclosure.

I have been owning two externals, one WD 2TB and one Seagate 1TB for six months, and so far have had no problems with them. However there are rumors about pre-builts having a high failure rate, which led me to this contemplation.

Th reason I still hesitate to buy an internal with closure because of the seemingly complicated setup and I hear that sometimes computers don't recognize them (I'm not very knowledgeable with this stuff)

So any advice /tc/, or share your experience with externals in general?

Post edited on 24th May 2011, 5:15am
>> No. 229 [Edit]
File 130629912995.jpg - (49.97KB , 300x300 , wdfMyBook_World_H1N.jpg )
Why not buy another one like the ones you have?
>> No. 230 [Edit]
I've always built my own external hard drives and never had a problem getting my OS to detect them. For the setup, you're just putting the drive in the enclosure and securing it with the screws it comes with. It's really easy.
>> No. 231 [Edit]
So...yesterday My parents took me to bestbuy to buy me a laptop for my birthday.I'd already decided on an ASUS as they have the lowest 3-year failure rates among all major laptop brands. My parents did the actual buying as I prefer to avoid talking to people. I was browsing stuff when my mom came up to me and asked me if I wanted them to "set it up" for me by deleting pop-ups or some shit.. I've heard this shit before and figured they were just trying to con me out of 100 bucks. The guy told them that I should make a recovery disc since they don't come with one. I get home insert the battery and plug it up. I do all the new computer stuff like choosing a password and nickname. When the desktop finally loads there are just three pop-ups:one was for trend micro which I said no and closed. The other two were some PDF reader that started with N and a prompt to make a recovery disc. I put in an DVD and hit start and when it's at about three percent my mom tekks me the guy said to delete pop-ups before I made the disc. hit remind me later on the PDF reader and closed it and a second window that appeared when I started burning a recovery disc. Am....Am I fucked? ;_;
>> No. 232 [Edit]
Not at all, they're just annoying "BUY THIS" popups which are common on pre-installs. You'll just have to delete them again when you use the recovery disks. If you're worried about it, delete the popups and create a fresh recovery disk set.
>> No. 233 [Edit]
You don't even need that recovery disc. It's just a backup of useless programs they want you to keep. Don't bother.
>> No. 234 [Edit]
Good to know. I'm having a problem with my desktop in that I cant upload images on tohnochan,4chan,or bunbunmaru. The browser simply loads forever on Bun ,and on 4chan it sits there for a minute and then says updating index and returns me to page 0 and doesn't make a post. I can post replies without images fine. I think it has something to do with when I select the file it says file type"all files" and I don't know why. Two days ago A window from my wireless card popped up telling me I needed to choose The netgear smart wizard or windows zero configuration. I selected the smart wizard and started having problems that night. Could it have something to do with it?
I realize chan posting isn't very serious ,but I'm worried it may extend to other things as well such as uploading documents when my uni classes start up again. :\
>> No. 235 [Edit]
My guess is you have Norton installed. Get rid of it if you do, and install one of the antivirii from here >>601.

>The netgear smart wizard or windows zero configuration
Well, check if the settings are correct. You can also try and switch to the windows tool.
>> No. 236 [Edit]
Well if he doesn't have windows by itself, then he sorta needs it since it has windows on it, and has drivers. You could always uninstall that extra shit after you run the recovery process.

Based on the timing of it and how everything seems to fail to load or be redirected elsewhere, I'd say that would be your problem, or at lease the source of your problem. See if you can find any "security" or "Privacy" options or some shit like that and turn it off.
>> No. 237 [Edit]
It turned out to be a problem with a new cordless phone my parents bought. We don't have dial-up so....whatever.problem solved.
>> No. 238 [Edit]
Laptop and other guy here. Can anyone post a tutorial like this for Paint.NET. I want to turn her hair magenta ,but it keeps "covering" it.
>> No. 239 [Edit]
File 13085988872.jpg - (156.74KB , 800x600 , lamane.jpg )
And done. My first manip.
>> No. 240 [Edit]
anybody here... please help me...
how to make files with SJIS encoding on their name work in Linux... terminal can't recognize the characters, I can't open them....
>> No. 241 [Edit]
Edit: Nevermind, misread it. This might work:

Post edited on 23rd Jun 2011, 5:51pm
>> No. 242 [Edit]
I finally got around to building my own computer

however I seem to have one flaw--my GPU won't work right. Everything else, as far as I can tell is working flawlessly as it is supposed to besides it. (it's a gigabyte 6870.) if I plug in the two PCI connectors and start the computer the fan and such will turn on, so its getting power, but for some reason there will be no picture. It did work once however, why it quit I am unsure. (For a further explanation of this I didn't realize my monitors power button was where it was, and hence I turned it off and restarted after making sure everything was snugly fit in its place. After realizing I was an idiot and didn't have the monitors power on it showed a picture. Although during one time of it being on I hit a few keys on my keyboard accidentally and reset the bios upon noticing that) Without it plugged in (just the PCI connectors) the computer works fine, save the shitty on board graphics gimping it.

is this just some bios thing I need to fix or has my GPU possibly fried somehow? Couldn't find much help on google so I thought I'd ask some brohnos. Don't think I killed it by static as I took the proper precautions to ground myself first.

Edit: It just occured to me that I am putting the cable for the monitor into the motherboard, and not the GPU. That would be simple to fix if they both had the same types of connectors, but they don't. Could this be causing the problem? Should be able to pick up an adapter pretty cheap to solve it.

Post edited on 29th Jun 2011, 9:59pm
>> No. 243 [Edit]
I finally got around to building my own computer

however I seem to have one flaw--my GPU won't work right. Everything else, as far as I can tell is working flawlessly as it is supposed to besides it. (it's a gigabyte 6870.) if I plug in the two PCI connectors and start the computer the fan and such will turn on, so its getting power, but for some reason there will be no picture. It did work once however, why it quit I am unsure. (For a further explanation of this I didn't realize my monitors power button was where it was, and hence I turned it off and restarted after making sure everything was snugly fit in its place. After realizing I was an idiot and didn't have the monitors power on it showed a picture. Although during one time of it being on I hit a few keys on my keyboard accidentally and reset the bios upon noticing that) Without it plugged in (just the PCI connectors) the computer works fine, save the shitty on board graphics gimping it.

is this just some bios thing I need to fix or has my GPU possibly fried somehow? Couldn't find much help on google so I thought I'd ask some brohnos. Don't think I killed it by static as I took the proper precautions to ground myself first.

Edit: It just occured to me that I am putting the cable for the monitor into the motherboard, and not the GPU. That would be simple to fix if they both had the same types of connectors, but they don't. Could this be causing the problem? Should be able to pick up an adapter pretty cheap to solve it.

Edit 2: That fixed it, leaving this here though in case anyone runs across the same problem. I was unaware that DVI-I and DVI-D were backwards compatable until googling it.
>> No. 244 [Edit]
I got my CPU upgraded a little while ago, and while I normally leave my computer on 24/7, when it shuts down now, I have to turn the power supply off to get it to start back up.

If I just restart like one usually would, it will just kind of repeat the "windup" sound and not actually start up, but if I switch the power supply off then back on it starts up. Though I have to reset the time in Windows every time, it always defaults to sometime in 2001.

Not exactly a problem that demands immediate action, but I'm wondering -- if the power flickers when I'm not around and it restarts, could the repeated "windup" phase damage anything somehow?
>> No. 245 [Edit]
Is there any way to have a hidden wallpaper on my laptop?
I want to have an eroge wallpaper as my background,but It would be unpleasant if my parents or professors saw it. Can I make one wallpaper appear on startup and change it with a button?
>> No. 246 [Edit]
On linux you should be able to assign it to a hot key with ease. Get the name of the command, assign it to hot ket with Xkeys(Ithink).

sage because you probably ddon't use linux.
>> No. 247 [Edit]
Nope you're right. I'm using Windows 7. Bump for advice from windows users.
>> No. 248 [Edit]
Just don't. What if you or someone else accidentally hits the button? What if you walk away from the computer and have it still on there and someone walks over and sees it?
>> No. 249 [Edit]
is it really true that if you forgot your lock code in a Verizon cell phone the verizon people can't do anything about it? got a used cell phone from a garage sale and so I went to a Verizon store to get my account change to that phone, but then the lady tells me she can't do anything about the lock code, she did take the phone to the back and tried some stuff to unlock it but to no avail.
is it really true that they Verizon themselves can't get past the lock codes? or did I just get woman that doesn't know what she's doing?
cause if its the latter I don't want to spend 8 hours (cumulative with the assumption that each code requires 3 seconds to input) just typing numbers to try to find the code.
currently I'm on 0400 and I've got 9599 more combinations to go.
>> No. 250 [Edit]
The time resetting upon turning off your power supply sounds like your cmos battery is dead, though I don't think that would solve the powering up thing, That could be something else, not sure what. Did it start doing this right after you put in the new cpu or shortly afterword?
>> No. 251 [Edit]
It was right after switching the CPU. The shop that did it said it got to the windows login screen just fine.
>> No. 252 [Edit]
Than I'm pretty sure it has something to do with that CPU. Probably a faulty chip, or maybe your motherboard don't play nice with that chip. If you still have your old chip, put it back in and see if it works properly. Also, did the bios clock reset when you unplugged it before?

And for that repeated windup problem if the power were to going out with you away, I'd go into the bios and see if you can find some setting that tells your motherboard to stay off if power is lost.
>> No. 253 [Edit]
disregard this post
I brute forced it by hand
>> No. 254 [Edit]
File 131091446948.jpg - (3.41KB , 126x126 , 6300_support_main.jpg )
I have been considering of buying a new phone Nokia Meego n9 or a Nexus S, but I am concerned about security,privacy and encrpytion .Does anyone know about if Meego will be supported at all in the future,what should I choose? And I will be using pre-paid card for better anonymity.Maybe I should just throw my phone away.

pic related it is my phone that nobody calls to.
>> No. 255 [Edit]
Wouldn't it be better to get a very old phone, with no GPS/etc in it, and using it with a pre-paid card? What do you need a new phone for?
>> No. 256 [Edit]
My phone is an old model. I wish I could buy a new one for the simple existence of a place to put phone straps in it. I would keep it with me for the sole purpose of the straps since I never have a call on cellphones.
>> No. 257 [Edit]
nothing much really,now when you put it that way.Thought it maybe be some kind of "challenge" fiddling with it. You are absolutely right ,I rather buy a good book instead of wasting money on electronics never to be used at it's full potential.I will stop to pollute this thread now,bye!
>> No. 258 [Edit]
So recently I dicked up, and spilled some water on my computer which has a open top/grate thing for cooling fans. It wasn't a lot but enough to cause concern. When this happened my monitor turned off and I immiediatly turned my computer off, cleaned as much of it up as possible. Most of it looks like it got on my graphics card but it appears that some got on my motherboard close to the SATA ports. Then I went to bed and turned it on ~16 hours later and it booted up fine.

Today I went to turn it on and told me it couldn't find my desktop or something similar, and it showed a black screen with just the recycle bin and the default theme (the one like windows 98 with no fancy image for its titlebar/taskbar/etc) restarted, and it was fine. I also had a odd problem where one of my minecraft mods somehow uninstalled and I just had to reinstall the mod to get it working again.

Should I be worried and is this a sign of things to come perhaps?
>> No. 259 [Edit]
Better put it apart and see if there's no water drops somewhere, then use an hair dryer.
>> No. 260 [Edit]
Somehow I dnt recommend hair dryer, dont want residual static to fry your chips.
>> No. 262 [Edit]

A program to hopefully get hard to find traces out of the registry after you uninstall
>> No. 263 [Edit]
Also if your internet is slow, go to the program files full list and look for pando media booster->uninstall.

Your computer is now fast as shit.
>> No. 264 [Edit]
My mouse is starting to double click when I only click once. It only does it sometimes, but it's still really annoying. I could order a new mouse, but is there a way to fix this one?
>> No. 265 [Edit]
Mine does this too so any info would be appreciated.

Also, My brother torrented Fight Club last night apparently. How fucked is my family ;_;?
>> No. 266 [Edit]
Same here, it does it all the time and it pisses me off to no end, but I blame it on the fact the mouse is a cheap peace of crap.
It not only does the double click, it also wont hold stuff, it drops things that are being dragged and clicks things at complete random.
I can't wait till a replacement I ordered shows up, I'm thinking of taking this old mouse out back and beating it to peaces with a hammer.
>> No. 268 [Edit]
I've been having this really bad problem with my laptop lately.
it seems like there's a limit to how many things I can have open at once, windows, programs even tabs in programs.
after restarting the laptop, that limit might be around 7 - 10, but after being on for some time, it gets to where I can't even have 3 things open at once.
I mean, damn, you know you're shit's fucked up when your computer wont let you open a folder, until you close an unused tab in mirc.

This laptop used to be pretty cool, and ran nicely, but now it's acting like a pc from 1990.

It's running windows XP pro
2gb of ram
1.6 processor

also, I haven't downloaded much of anything onto the thing, haven't been using it for much other then streaming a radio, which I did for a long time before without complications.
scanned for viruses and found nothing.
I thought that I maybe put something together wrong when I took it apart and put it back together a few weeks ago, like maybe the ram isn't connected right, but it all shows up to be working fine, and the laptop isn't being slow, it just doesn't want to do anything, can't even right click the desktop if to many windows are open, don't matter how long you wait, it just wont.

any clue what could cause it to act like this?

Post edited on 15th Aug 2011, 1:37am
>> No. 269 [Edit]
the cause could be a million things but reinstalling windows will probably fix it
>> No. 270 [Edit]
I've had the same problem for a few years and I also use Windows XP Pro, but it's nowhere near that bad.
>> No. 271 [Edit]
I guess I might try doing that, the thing has only gotten worse now, now the mouse/touchpad/pointer thing, all work at 5% speed that they did before.
Meaning, you'd have to move your mouse across the pad 20 times just to get the cursor from one side of the screen to the other (yet performance of the laptop isn't effected)

also as far as hardwear, I spent an house or two replacing the laptop's screen which is bad, with that of a exact same model I bought for parts, which I tested out to have a perfectly good screen.
after swapping the screen onto the old laptop, it acts exactly the way the old one did, and I wasn't the least bit surprised...
I might just scrap the laptop, it's starting to seem like more trouble then it's worth, might be easier to fix the hardware problems with the other I got for parts, only real problem with that one was it turns off on it's own if you leave it on for a few hours.
I think it has a heat sink problem.
>> No. 274 [Edit]
File 131812714139.jpg - (102.79KB , 1280x774 , untitled.jpg )
I've gotten this message three times in the last two or three days.It appears to be completely random.The last two times I was just browsing the internet with two tabs open.Any idea what the problem is?
>> No. 275 [Edit]
Huh? No problem, I think. Firefox uses 200+MB of RAM pretty much always here.
>> No. 276 [Edit]
could it be an add-on youre using?
>> No. 277 [Edit]
How do I "wash" DRM Wad file protected CDs so I can play burned CDs on my old Sony Walkman D-E220? I am using CD-r to burn the(WAD) files straight onto the cd but fail miserably due to DRM with no sound playing. I am not experienced with DRM on dated hardware.Don't hate.
I like the sound.
>> No. 278 [Edit]
I hate to ask this because I'm sure this is a stupid question, but I need help finding a path. I'm following the build instructions for VirtualBox on Snow Leopard 32-bit as listed here:

and I'm now at the step where I need to build the program. It says "change to the root directory of the sources" but I can't seem to find that. I went to / and executed the command, but the configuration file could not be found. Have any guesses as to where I need to be to execute "./configure --disable-hardening"?
>> No. 279 [Edit]
How can I tell what my IP address is?
I want to know if I've got a static or dynamic IP.
I know you're supposed to unplug the router,but is there anything I should do to make sure I don't damage it?
(For example,turning off a computer with the power button is bad and so is removing a flash drive unless it says the drive is safe to remove.)So basically things like that.How can forums tell when a banned member reregisters?
A forum I used a long time ago that's basically dead now had someone use a different email and the mods could see he had a different IP address.How?

I want to know because I got banned from a forum that wasn't "chan"-style.Everyone has a username,avatar,etc.. I'd rather not say which one,this forum bans a lot of people.80% of the time it's for spamming and youtube style comments.I found a controversial topic a few days ago and disagreed with a majority of the people there.I scorched them with survey data,and even provided a link to a more adequate blog,but all they could do was chant "correlation does not equal causation" and one of the admins and his groupies banned me.I'm kind of pissed right now,and don't know what I want to do,try and get a new IP and reregister or send a letter to the Japanese company they've been stealing from.Not only do they have a fuckload of torrents,but they also resell merchandise/raffle it away.Bastards.
>> No. 280 [Edit]

If you're unable to change your ip, try tor or a proxy site

Post edited on 31st Oct 2011, 1:29pm
>> No. 281 [Edit]
Oh,thanks.I thought about it have decided on three possible courses of action:
A)wait it out and reregister,provided IP is dynamic of course.
B)Send a letter to the Japanese company,I'm leaning away from this one though due to how time consuming it would be and the chance that nothing fucking happens,still not completely abandoned though due to negative repercussions from C,
C)I found out who the company/host is,It's I have to due is send them a letter complaining about the ephebo content on that website is fucked up the ass with a cannon dildo.I'm sort of worried about what would happen if I did though.What are the chances they would pull every IP address that ever posted on the site and hand it to the feds.
(And no, I already know what you may be thinking/were going to ask;it isn't part of the deep web or CP).I just wouldn't want this to bite my ass when I just posted in a handful of threads.
>> No. 283 [Edit]
Illigal content could get the site taken down, but unless a user is also spreading illegal content they should not have to worry.
It seems very unlikely you'd even make it onto a watch list.
>> No. 284 [Edit]
Never mind, /g/ helped me. Turns out I forgot to download the source code... Imagine that.
>> No. 285 [Edit]
File 132068810352.jpg - (59.54KB , 1124x483 , 11 40 48.jpg )
How can I make my Tohno-chan look like this?
>> No. 286 [Edit]
default theme with blocked elements?
>> No. 287 [Edit]

Well, yes. But how do I block the elements?
>> No. 288 [Edit]
I recently tried to install a new sound card, and my computer would not read it, so I put my old one back in. Now every time I turn on my computer I get a message "Raid1 set is in Critical Status" and the computer restarts whenever it trys to boot to Windows. Help would be greatly appreciated.
>> No. 289 [Edit]
How can I throttle my brother's internet access?
Even though he has free online with PSN he's started playing runescape again and it's making our entire internet lag.
>> No. 290 [Edit]
I want to see what a document will look like when uploaded onto a story Archive.I saved the source html and tried opening it in notepad,but I can't remember.Is there a way offline to see what a webpage/the text on it would look like without going on the internet?
>> No. 291 [Edit]
You can open any html document in a browser, even when not connected to the internet.
>> No. 292 [Edit]
I realize this isn't exactly a computer question but...

My grandparents have already started doling out christmas presents.I got the Game of the Year edition of Little big planet.My question is,is there a limit on how many times you can download the downloadable content?

My brother is currently the one with a PS3,and I don't want to lose any maps or exclusive content if he moves out next semester and brings his PS3 with him.I'm going to buy my own hopefully soon.
>> No. 293 [Edit]
When you download dlc it registers to that ps3. I think 5 was the maximum amount of ps3s you can have one thing registered to, but it was changed to 2 last month. If it's just you and your brother you should be able to both use the dlc.
>> No. 294 [Edit]
Anyone know if there's any possibility of making Mac OS 10.6.8 recognize and mount a floppy disk? There has to be some way, any way to make the system do so.
>> No. 295 [Edit]
I'm guessing a USB floppy drive? Do you have the drivers? How is the disk formatted (where did you get it?)
>> No. 296 [Edit]
Doesn't matter in the end, as there really isn't a way to make it happen. Seems the kernel itself is the problem: the necessary code is no longer programmed into OS X.
>> No. 297 [Edit]
Got a hardware issue on my hands, maybe someone can help advise me on what to do next.

I have a HP G42 running 64bit Win7. Got home today and booted up and was greeted with Error 90B: the cooling fan was not working. I did a hard reset after removing the battery, which temporarily fixed the problem. Again, the fan stopped working properly. I updated my BIOS to the current version, which again fixed the problem for a short time. But the fan proceeded to shut off again.

I don't think I'll get much help from HP support, but I probably will end up calling them anyway. It seems like a hardware issue with the part itself now. Yesterday it worked fine with no issues whatsoever. I do not remember any falls, drops, or impacts in the last week that could've caused this.

Anyone else have a similar problem, or have you found a way to fix it?
>> No. 298 [Edit]
The fan is very probably just dead, but a replacement one might not be too expensive. I'd be careful if HP tries to sell you one over the phone though - look online first.
>> No. 299 [Edit]
It starts and stops intermittently, almost like something is blocking it.
>> No. 301 [Edit]
This is related to the utorrent auto download rss feed.
I tried setting up a series to download into a specific folder, and it was working fine, but, I kept finding eps from the show in my main download folder.
I not really sure, but I think it's moving files when completed or when called to seed.
If I'm not nuts, is there a simple way to make it stop moving completed files from one feed without affecting files from other feeds?
>> No. 302 [Edit]
What's the best algorithm to parse a mathematical expression made up of numbers and the {+,-,*,/,(,)} symbols?

Post edited on 26th Feb 2012, 11:30am
>> No. 303 [Edit]
Un-check "Move completed downloads" in the preferences, in the Directories tab.
>> No. 304 [Edit]
Dunno... but are you dealing with Turing machines' related stuff?
>> No. 305 [Edit]
reverse polish notation

Post edited on 26th Feb 2012, 1:23pm
>> No. 306 [Edit]
I'm so dumb.
>> No. 308 [Edit]
That's about the same I figured out myself. Thanks! Also, Dijkstra was a smart man.

I want to write a Prolog interpreter... sometime.

Post edited on 28th Feb 2012, 2:09pm
>> No. 309 [Edit]
Hey, guys, what do you use to mass download images from threads?

I used to use the not4chan thing, which worked perfectly, but is no longer viable for firefox after its jump in versions to fucking 10. I just tried downthemall, and ended up with fucking thumbnails. Thumbnails everything.

Any thoughts/suggestions?
>> No. 310 [Edit]
File 133091641256.jpg - (309.91KB , 1416x747 , Untitled.jpg )
I use downthemall
To make it save the image and not thumbnail, click "links".
Here's a picture just in case.
>> No. 311 [Edit]
Oh, hey, that seems good.

Thanks, man.
>> No. 312 [Edit]
My father's computer has started to have very strange artifacting and freezing. I assume it's a graphics card problem, but I want to see what people who actually know about computers have to say
>> No. 314 [Edit]
In what way is the system freezing, is it solely in the graphics output or is it system-wide? It's important to take note whether the system appears to carry on with graphics independant tasks while the screen appears to freeze. Such can be observed in performance logs; for example if the CPU appears to be sleeping while the freeze took place then that's reason to suspect that the problem lies elsewhere. However if the issues lies solely in the graphical department then your suspicion is indeed spot on. That is my take on the case.
>> No. 315 [Edit]
However I do not claim to be an expert, just so you know.
>> No. 316 [Edit]
he already took it to a shop and got it fixed
>> No. 317 [Edit]
What's the best/easiest way to convert an MKV subbed anime series to AVI hardsub?

I'm just basically trying to watch some anime series on my PSP for when I'm around and about, so if anyone knows something that works just as well, I'm all ears. I've heard a lot of converters don't work, so tried and tested methods are preferred.
>> No. 318 [Edit]
I use 'AllToAVI' for that, which has a psp conversion setting built in I believe
Although I usually just convert to .avi and from there use a program simply called 'pspvc' to convert them for psp.
>> No. 319 [Edit]
I've never tested that particular thing(converting from Matroska to AVI + hardsubbing), but MediaCoder supports a ton of operations and has a separate distribution dedicated solely for converting videos for PSP. Take a look:
>> No. 320 [Edit]
My question is why you would even want to do this. Every PSP firmware released in the last few years has AVC decoding support with an .mp4 container. And that is arguably much better than .avi with its messy hacks to support modern encoding functionality. Just transcode it to .mp4. I would still use a non-complex profile because PSP processor is weak.
>> No. 321 [Edit]
Thanks everyone, I'll give that software a try


I was just being vague really, .avi was just the first PSP-supported format that sprung to mind. Anything is fine as long as it converts subbed MKV files to a format watchable on a PSP.
>> No. 322 [Edit]
My bad. It always ends poorly when I forget to check the dates. I'm glad that the problem was resolved.
>> No. 323 [Edit]
File 133472291498.jpg - (15.39KB , 226x161 , 1334311898930.jpg )
Hey guys, I'm using a laptop that's running Arch Linux with Intel HD3000 graphics and an i3-2310M 2.1GHz processor. I've compiled mplayer2 and I've been watching some anime using it, but I have a problem with the video output. The default (xv) output causes awful screen tearing which seems to have no simple solution. I can switch to the gl output and this is fine most of the time but while playing certain shows like Fate/Zero it stutters. I know the system itself should be able to handle 720p video with ease, I just think it's a annoying compatibility issue with Intel graphics and the video outputs and I don't know what to do.

I'm wondering if anyone here could shed some light on the matter, because internet searches have returned nothing useful.
>> No. 324 [Edit]
psp can support .avi?
>> No. 325 [Edit]
what hardware manufacturers would be best suitable for a gnu/linux build, Nvidia and AMD? been considering using Fedora or Ubuntu(I am not much of a techguy) also:
>> No. 326 [Edit]
I'm not an expert but I'll give it a shot --

Generally if it's between AMD and nVidia for a discrete graphics card I'd say go with nVidia + their properitary driver stack if you don't mind restricted software (blob system), or AMD + mesa driver stack if you want to keep your software free and clean. If you're coming straight from Windows you probably don't have any strong feelings on this matter, but I'd only strictly point you to nVidia if you plan to do heavy graphics dependant tasks on your linux box, e.g. games, etc. If you're building a new system you might concider Intel's integrated graphics solution + mesa driver stack, however I don't have any experience with Intel's solutions whatsoever.

Note: Mesa is a free stack of drivers for whatever graphics card they support (mainly AMD and Intel, as far as I know). If you go with Ubuntu I know for a fact that you'll get Mesa straight out of the box, and very likely Fedora too if you go with the standard desktop environment). On Ubuntu, and maybe Fedora too, installing properitary drivers is ridiculously easy anyway.

To sum up: nVidia for games, otherwise either of the 3 biggies in the graphics industry should work out for you in some fashion. My personal experience is mostly with AMD discrete graphics + mesa drivers.

On another note: if you decide to go with Intel integrated graphics you can either hop straight on the Sandy Bridge with more or less stable drivers (don't quote me on that), or you can wait for the emminent Ivy Bridge and hope for fast GNU/Linux support on/near launch.

I hope someone with more confidence on this topic will chime in if I'm missing something or am straight out wrong on some points.
>> No. 327 [Edit]
Do you encounter this problem on all mediaplayers, or just mplayer2 (not that the selection is staggering or anything)?
>> No. 328 [Edit]
What is a good free software for recording video games?
>> No. 329 [Edit]
[_]good software for recording games
[_]free software for recording games

please select only one of the above. Either way, the answer is FRAPS, but the other part of the answer is whether I direct you to thepiratebay or the fraps main site to acquire the program.

or you can search through and hope to find something that doesn't quite suck too horribly, but if you have an i7 there shouldn't be any problems with the programs hogging CPU and whatnot.
>> No. 330 [Edit]
Alright, I got fraps. Now I need a good video editing program, do you have any suggestions?

Doesn't need to be fancy, I just wanna be able to easily cut down/combine videos and maybe add some music. No need for 3D SPECIAL EFFECTS SCREEN TRANSITION LENS FLARE MAGIC

Post edited on 29th Apr 2012, 5:08pm
>> No. 331 [Edit]
I think sony vegas is a nice video editor.
>> No. 332 [Edit]
eh fuck it, making videos is too tedious for me to have fun with it. thanks for your help anyway anon
>> No. 333 [Edit]
How do I make my freshly reformatted computer faster? i.e. booting, handling more applications/web pages. I just reformatted my comp with windows 7 and it has a 2.4ghz 64bit quad core/4 gigs of ram. Would overclocking the cpu or ram help and is it safe? Are there any less resource browsers than google chrome. What's a good lightweight music player/organizer?
>> No. 334 [Edit]
>What's a good lightweight music player/organizer?

As for your other queries, that would involve either changing OS or upgrading hardware, as far as I'm concerned anyway. Get an SSD if you haven't already, given that you have the money.
>> No. 335 [Edit]
Hi guys. I have a weird problem, I don't think there's any way to do anything about it but it won't hurt to ask.

Basically a few months ago I lent my old laptop to my sister. The hard drive was pretty pretty loaded so when she wanted to download/install something she just went ahead and got rid of some directory.

I don't really hope to get that data back anymore but it'd be amazing if there would be any way to find out what was it exactly that I lost. Basically I'd like to know what folders were there.

If it's impossible feel free to shoot me down. Thanks in advance.
>> No. 336 [Edit]

If you could maybe plug the drive into another system and browse around, you may be able to find out that way. I can't think of any other methods, though.
>> No. 337 [Edit]
If she's saved stuff since then, probably not.
>> No. 338 [Edit]
Since you say it's almost full, it's unlikely there will be anything left to find.
But just in case, you could run a search on the disk to find unused MFT records marked as being directories.

I've read that Tiny Hexer has a regex search and disk editor, so maybe try that. I don't have a windows installation to try it out on at the moment, but assuming that the regexes work as most others do, and it ignores spaces try doing a search for:

46 49 4c 45 30 00 03 00 .{24} 38 00 02 00 .{8} 00 04 00 00

The meaning:
46 49 4c 45 : FILE in ASCII, it's the marker for a file record in the MFT
30 00 : offset to the update sequence: pretty sure it's always 0x30 on NTFS versions >= 3.1 (XP).
03 00 : size in words of the update sequence: always going to be 3 if the MFT record size is 2 sectors
.{24} : 12 bytes that are going to be different for every file
38 00 : offset to the first attribute. always 0x38 on >= 3.1 assuming the update sequence is 4 or less words
02 00 : flags. binary(10) is the flag for directory. binary(01) is the flag for in use.
.{8} : size of the file record
00 04 00 00: allocated size of the file record. always going to be 0x400 assuming sector size is 512 bytes and MFT record size is 2 sectors

It might do regex counts by byte instead of character, so you might need to replace .{24} with .{12} and .{8} with .{4}

Information on NTFS:
>> No. 339 [Edit]

When I said it was almost full I meant it was almost full when I gave it to her. Now there's almost 80GB of free space. I bet the stuff that was in there were just some old anime and games but I'd like to know if that's all there is to it for sure.

I did a bit of research on my own and tried one of those 'Uneraser' programs (there are mulitple choices here) and it found some REALLY ancient stuff, directories I deleted some ~7 years ago (when I first bought this laptop and when it was still useful) but it couldn't find the directory in question. No idea why. I'll try some other programs later maybe. Your method too, >>2061.

I have a lot on my head lately so it's kinda hard to find some time to actually sit down and so something about it. Thanks for the help so far. I'll report with the results later. Cheers.
>> No. 341 [Edit]
Oh, yeah, if there's a bunch of space left now, those fancy programs might be able to save some of the actual data. I remember a long time ago trying to save some data with those and they were all like "Want to restore something >5MB? Buy the full version!" Did you find some decent free ones?

I only suggested doing a manual search because I thought space was at a premium.
It's not going to find anything a dedicated recovery program isn't going to find.

Post edited on 25th Jun 2012, 4:19pm
>> No. 342 [Edit]
>> No. 343 [Edit]
I had a txt document with a bunch of ascii art in it, but now the japanese characters just show up as boxes. When I copy/paste them to other places the characters show up fine. Did something fuck up with my Notepad settings or what?

I mean, I can just use wordpad instead since it still works there, but still

Oh well nevermind. I restarted my computer and now it shows up properly. How annoying

Post edited on 9th Sep 2012, 1:32am
>> No. 344 [Edit]
Say, I just ran into a bit of a conundrum, and I'm sincerely hoping someone here could help me out. My computer just died. Complete kaput. It sucks, but I can move on and shit. I have a spare anyway. Only problem is, the spare has Windows2000. And Windows2000 doesn't work with my Netgear WNA1100 wireless adapter (which is sort of bullshit in itself, though quite useful 90% of the time). I was thinking that I could somehow get a freeware OS (like Linux; XP or something requiring disc-installation or whatever isn't an option) onto the other computer, and install it (and enjoy melodious rapture due to the notion of a not-noisy-downright-home-y computer). Is this at all possible, or do I need to just get a new computer because both won't work, and I'm essentially juggling two dead, limp animals or something.
>> No. 345 [Edit]
My laptop's been randomly freezing the last few days. Seemed to be hard drive-related; sure enough, I ran fsck overnight and woke up to upwards of 500 bad sectors. I don't remember dropping the computer or anything like that. I just bought the thing brand-new in April and it's still under warranty. Should I go through the hassle of trying to get the HDD replaced, or is there some kind of simple fix I should try first? This is the first time I've ever had a hard disk fail.
>> No. 346 [Edit]
Get it replaced or just get a cheap ssd (intel , Samsung) it takes like 5 minutes to change.
>> No. 347 [Edit]
I think I have a HDD problem too.

Been trying to get a game through Steam and the computer would just randomly restart at some points. The Event Viewer would just list a plain Kernel-Power with no more information.
Did a ton of tests and it seems the HDD steam is on was having read problems and a few bad sectors.
Used the manufacturer tool and it detected 7 bad sectors, which it was able to repair.
Trying to resume my download would still crash the computer.
Did a few more tests and most of them reported the HD is ok, but one of them made the system crash.
System randomly started to not boot and sometimes would restart even before I could enter the BIOS settings.

What do you guys think? Is it probably that disk unit or something else? Anything I can do to save it?
I'm thinking about formatting the partition that seems to be giving most trouble and hoping it's of some use, also considering doing the same to the windows partition(i.e. system reinstall), since it's another partition of the same problematic disk and it started having problems to boot, but I'm not particularly optimistic about it giving results.
>> No. 348 [Edit]
I think I've got it.
Some application installed the AMD Dual Core Optimizer(fixes a bug in the sync of timestamps cores return in WXP prior to SP2) silently on my machine. That driver isn't compatible with W7 and shouldn't do nothing to it, but people complaining about it making their system unstable disagree on that.
Found it by accident, removed it, removed it from startup, removed it from everywhere. After that the system ran stable for hours(prior to that I wasn't even able to download a Linux LiveCD before it crashed).
So, as a heads-up for everybody, you'd better do away with that crap.

Pretty irritating that it's installed silently and didn't generate any comprehensive log on the event viewer.(I really hope that was really just it and nothing more messing up my machine)
>> No. 349 [Edit]
Lately my 2 and a half year old harddrive (well I'm pretty sure it's the harddrive) has been a lot louder. It still works fine and I'm pretty sure it's not "the click of death" but I'm still worried. Should I be?
>> No. 350 [Edit]

it would be wise to consider investing in an additional hard drive, for storage purposes and eventually as a replacement.

I have a 250g HD that I've had for nearly a decade, it's loud as shit, slow as balls, and still chugging along and working nicely... but it's a WD, so that really should be expected.
>> No. 351 [Edit]
I have an external that I use to store finished anime and backup for my picture collection. Also I ran disk check and it finally finished and found zero problems so I guess I am just being paranoid
>> No. 352 [Edit]

just keep in mind that the click click click CKLAIJHDFGHHDERFASJGHDSFJDSHG sound is the reader head crashing into, and destroying the medium for which the data is written.

unlike the plates going bad, you won't notice a gradual degrading where sectors start to fail slowly one after another; it'll just be working, and working, and then completely broken after a few very loud (comparatively) seconds.
>> No. 353 [Edit]
Right click seems to randomly stop working in firefox.
>> No. 354 [Edit]
how do I download this flash video ?
>> No. 355 [Edit]
If you view the source of the page in your browser you will notice a link to
>> No. 357 [Edit]
Pc was working fine till some power surge or something. PC was still on but was getting no video so I restarted.
After restarting I found my keyboard no longer worked.
when trying to automatically update the driver windows says the best driver is already installed,
was getting a code 39 error before, but haven't seen that since doing a fix that involved deleting the UpperFilters and LowerFilters Registry Values.
Didn't fix the problem though.
From the device manager, the General tab shows a Device status that reads: "This device cannon start. (code 10)" after looking that up it seems this is a bit more serious. I should add the first thing I tried doing was a system restore, but I don't have one from before this problem.
one of the fixes I read about involved uninstalling all the drivers, ( )
although I tried that, some reinstall themselves right away, others prevent my mouse from working. but no matter how many times I uninstall the keyboard driver, it just comes back with a code 10 latter.
I might also note everything else on the PC is working just fine.
-Windows 7, 64 bit

(posting from my laptop)

I was thinking of doing a Startup Repair, but I don't think that's possible without a keyboard.
and yeah the keyboards work, I've tested them on my laptop.
Help would be much appreciated.

Post edited on 8th Nov 2012, 10:46pm
>> No. 358 [Edit]

Assuming a USB keyboard, does the same thing happen if you use a different USB slot?
(I've had a few USB slots do odd/broken things after an unprotected surge or when a PSU dies, with USB slot being effectively broken as a result.)

also, from XP and on, you can install/uninstall with a mouse, though you will most likely need a keyboard to set your bios to boot from the disk drive (with the windows disc in it).
>> No. 359 [Edit]
File 135257931674.jpg - (73.58KB , 789x574 , code10.jpg )
My default is a usb keyboard yes, and yeah I've tried it in different slots. also tried a second keyboard I have, and tried both of them using a PS/2 adaptor

Tried the Start up Repair but that turned out to be completely unrelated to my problem, since my PC starts fine (donno why I got directed to Startup Repair)

I tried looking up the gateway website for a keyboard driver, but didn't any.
( PC is a DX4300, keyboard is a y-uy95 )
might also note that the keyboard works fine before the os boots up.
>> No. 360 [Edit]
After mashing away on my second keyboard, I discovered that some of the extra keys still work.
Such as volume control, and some buttons that bring up a calculator and mail window.

Tried " sfc /scannow " but after doing so it said: "windows resource protection found corrupt files but was unable to fix some of them"
"details are included in the cbs.log"
>> No. 361 [Edit]
I work for a somewhat large organization in their IT department. One thing I've found out is that if your PS/2 keyboard is having problems, plugging in a PS/2 mouse and rebooting will make it work.
>> No. 362 [Edit]
windows repair install will fix corrupted system files,
but that's more of a last resort sort of thing.

perhaps consider using chkdsk /f and leaving your comp on all night (if you don't leave it on eternally already), or perhaps open up that .log file and see exactly what is corrupted.
>> No. 363 [Edit]
also, chkdsk /r didin't work.

the type of file system is NTFS." "cannot lock current drive" "chkdsk cannot run becuase the volume is in use by another process. would you like to schedule this volume to be checked the next time the system restarts? (Y/N)

7 hours of disk checking latter, and no joy.
>> No. 364 [Edit]
Would this be a good laptop to buy if I'm just gonna use it for watching anime and internet browsing? I don't plan on gaming on it or anything, since that's what my main PC is for
>> No. 365 [Edit]

Yes, for internet use and anime that is just fine. It would probably play some low end PC games too.
>> No. 366 [Edit]
Thanks. Hopefully I can buy it soon
>> No. 367 [Edit]
Did you try fixing Registry issues with CCleaner and restarting, Tohno? That function once saved my ass.
>> No. 368 [Edit]
Yeah, even tried a few other registry fixer error checker programs, didn't help.
>> No. 369 [Edit]
So I was able to fix the keyboard problem I was having by doing the repair install of windows.
The first time I tryed it was with a crappy version I pirated which was install only, made me think only sp1 could do the repair install and sp1 wouldn't install on my pc...
anyways, it's fixed, thanks for the help.

Post edited on 14th Nov 2012, 7:54am
>> No. 370 [Edit]
What about external HDDs? I figure I'm not the only one here who might need a few.

I have a 2.5" 1TB WD My Passport SE which I am pretty happy with even if it's not the fastest, but I need another one. I just ordered the 3TB Seagate Backup Plus because it was on sale for 110€, but I'm wondering if I made a good choice. I already have 2*2TB Barracudas and they have been pretty reliable so far, and besides even the slowest USB 3 HDDs are faster than what I'm used to, so I just bought the one with the best GB/$ ratio. I'm probably going to buy another 3TB HDD in a few months so if anyone has recommendations that'd be great.
>> No. 371 [Edit]
I'm not a professional or anything, but I've made the rounds with external HDDs. Comparing that to US$ price seems okay for the 3TB you got. Seagate is an average brand as far as my experience goes as well as others online if you look around. My personal favorites for externals are Western Digital. My one Western Digital external hasn't given me a single problem in 3 years whereas all my other externals over time (7 of them) have had problems from simple errors to just dying on me suddenly. Seagates won't die on you probably; the worst I've ever had from 3 seagates is having to reformat one of them because of some error involving sharing files between my desktop and laptop that were on the HDD.

What were you planning on using the hard drives for? Just long-term storage? Backups? Seagate is easy to use for backups from what I can tell

Reading the above I think I made the differences sound bigger than they are between brands. For the most part, the differences are not enough for you to switch to a much more expensive HDD. If a good brand is maybe a few euros/dollars more expensive go for it, but the cheapest you can get for the size is going to work just fine. More often than not you will only encounter problems if you do something wrong yourself or if you are doing more than moving files to and from the HDD.

Post edited on 5th Feb 2013, 9:35pm
>> No. 372 [Edit]

>Comparing that to US$ price seems okay for the 3TB you got.

US prices for hardware are probably the lowest in the world, so it's not really fair to compare it like that. In the best of cases a $110 component in America, say a motherboard, will also sell for ~110€ in Europe, even though it should only be about 80€.

>My personal favorites for externals are Western Digital.

I don't really have a favorite, but my WD has been going strong for 3 years now. Then again my Seagate Barracudas have also not given me any trouble. Really the only company I don't like is Toshiba, I had a Toshiba HDD that died on me after 6 months. Luckily it was still under warranty so they sent me a new one which also died after about a year. But this was like 6-7 years ago so things might have changed.

>What were you planning on using the hard drives for? Just long-term storage? Backups? Seagate is easy to use for backups from what I can tell

I'm not sure yet, but I've been wanting to do a full back-up of my system, which should take about 1.5 TB. The rest is just for the anime, music, etc that have been sitting on my old HDDs (next 3TB I buy will probably be full of that stuff). I'm a back-up freak, I can't bear the thought of anything I've saved on my computer disappearing. Either way I don't plan on using their software.

Thanks for the advice! I'll probably just grab a WD the next time they go on sale then, they are just so sleek-looking haha.
>> No. 373 [Edit]
Hi I'm not sure if I'll be able to explain this properly or if you'll be able to help if I do but no harm in trying.

So I bet a friend of mine I could find file (it's a kind of journal) on his computer before the 17th of February. So far I've figured out that it's encrypted and I have the a lot files from his computer on a USB stick. He's given a lot of hints and so know that the file is among the one's I have and he's said he'll give me the password to it if I can find it.

So I was wondering if anyone would have an idea of how to find it?
>> No. 374 [Edit]
My birthday is coming up and my dad has been talking about how he "found a great Acer for 250 dollars".
I'm really really worried that he's going to blow a bunch of money on total shit.
He doesn't understand that with technology, you get what you pay for, mostly.

His budget is probably 300 - 500 dollars.

What can I get that is at least acceptable? I would prefer Windows 7. This would be used for internet browsing, mid-range gaming (nothing fancy, just half-life 1, doom, touhou, and occasional counter strike), audio/video/image editing, basic schoolwork, music, and anime.

I've been looking at this...
...but I dunno if I would trust HP.
>> No. 375 [Edit]
If you have to get a laptop, I'd say go with Lenovo. Make sure you get something with a dedicated GPU.

Otherwise, I'd recommend just getting a desktop.
>> No. 376 [Edit]
It doesn't have to be a laptop, in fact, I'd prefer a desktop.
But my dad is also refusing to consider ordering anything online or (god forbid!) building a PC.
>> No. 377 [Edit]
It's weird for me to imagine having such rigid parents, so I always feel like you can just convince them to not be so stubborn. That's probably not the case, so may Haruhi help you.
>> No. 378 [Edit]
File 136059959759.jpg - (55.55KB , 500x415 , HP pavilion dm4-2180la Entertainment PC.jpg )
Most of the problems with previous HP laptops came from overheating (even with a fan). New generation ones have a much better handle of it, but it consumes memory in a weird way; I mean: it shouldn't give ant trouble while, say, browsing and writing and listening to music from a video at the same time; but while gaming in your bed, you could get frozen ups...

However, I very much love the one I own now. It's my best friend and my most precious possession in the world.
>> No. 379 [Edit]
Chances are you won't find a discrete GPU in pre-built computers < $500, so your best bet is probably to go with an AMD APU (A10-5800k, A10-5700, A8-5600K, etc). At least that way you'll be guaranteed half-decent graphics (integrated graphics on intel chips are utter shit, especially the HD 2000/300 you'll find on lower-end CPUs). That means a little less processing power, but even a cheaper APU should be enough for valve games/internet/etc.
Maybe something like this if you live near a microcenter. I can't say if it's a good deal or not because I'm not used to pre-built prices.
Otherwise you'll probably have to wait for a deal on a computer with an i3 and a discrete GPU.
>> No. 380 [Edit]
Check out this video and show it to your dad if you're still interested in building your own pc. Explain to him how not only is custom pc building a healthy hobby, but it's a learning experience and you'll end up getting more bang for your buck in the long run.


As for the graphics card he mentions, the HD7870, you can get okay performance for what you want from a much cheaper GPU, like an HD6670, which is only like $90 (the one he mentions is around $250). You can weigh your options there. You can always upgrade in the future.

If you're interested in building your own, I don't see why he would want to discourage it.
>> No. 381 [Edit]
Be careful to buy a 6670 with GDDR5 memory and not GDDR3.

But anyway he said:
>But my dad is also refusing to consider ordering anything online or (god forbid!) building a PC.
so I doubt that's gonna happen.
>> No. 382 [Edit]
Mine has GDDR3 and plays all valve games just fine (most on high to very high settings, not overclocked), but the GDDR5 is actually cheaper than the GDDR3 on newegg right now with the rebate.

That one's only $75 with the rebate. I got mine over two years ago, but right now there's no reason to go with the GDDR3 over the GDDR5, so that's an important point to make.
>> No. 383 [Edit]
nevermind my awesome stepdad is giving me his Falcon Northwest Fragbox

thing can max crysis 2 and i don't have to pay one cent


>> No. 384 [Edit]
>thing can max crysis 2
So can my toaster.
>> No. 385 [Edit]
Your toaster is better than mypc then
>> No. 386 [Edit]
All I'm saying is crysis 2 isn't a very resource demanding game. maybe with MaLDoHD on max settings, but not the vanilla game.
>> No. 387 [Edit]
My computer's top case fan was making a weird rattling sound yesterday, so I thwacked it with my thumb and the noise stopped. It did it again this morning, I did the same thing, and it stopped again. Any idea what could be causing this?
>> No. 388 [Edit]
Malwarebytes told me I have 6 viruses, so I got rid of them. Then I checked my laptop that I never use, and it somehow had a virus too even though I haven't done anything on it. Is malewarebytes just fucking up or something?
>> No. 389 [Edit]
Pirate games at all? Anti-virus/malware program can get false positives from cracks/keygens.
>> No. 390 [Edit]

No, although upon further inspection all the things it found were various install/uninstall .exes that as far as I know aren't malicious at all, and some people on their forum are reporting this too. So maybe the people at MB just fucked their database up somehow, I hope
>> No. 391 [Edit]

Also, can anyone else running malwarebytes confirm? I need some peace of mind if I wanna sleep tonight
>> No. 392 [Edit]
Based on your advice I've decided to buy a Western Digital external HDD.
>> No. 393 [Edit]
I was looking for a new laptop as my last one won't turn on. Does anyone here have any suggestions? I would like to have a realiable one with a decent screen resolution but when searching with these criteria everyone just tells to get a mac.
>> No. 394 [Edit]
look for a refurbished thinkpad there are retails on the net that sell them with guarantee and good hardware. But if you have 1000 dollars to spend buy a new computer.
>> No. 395 [Edit]

Agreed, If you want decent resolution which is always overlooked, on like 14", go with lenovo thinkpad for high value. Refurbished is always great, but good condition used are fine, especially new ones cuz they have premium business warranties, look for t420, t420i (i=i3) if you want to have the latest cpu, but still have the great classic keyboard. My reason for thinkpad is most offer the 1440x900 res, giving you that extra room over the max 1366x768 that 90% of laptops are using without having to up pay if you can even find that option. 1366 is even standard for 15.6", fine for video, but for browsing, workspace, game space, I agree higher res is the best. They got lots of ports, extra HD slot, not uber heavy for their durability/spill resistance, great battery life, and a real keyboard. If you can spend a bit over $500 on a 17in, you'll hopefully get 1650x, or even 1900HD resolution, but those get big and heavy. New mac pros have the best res (currently more than practical) and arguably some of best hardware throughout minus a graphics card, but at that cost you could buy a fricken HD res 26" monitor with equal spec'd laptop for cheaper. Macbook is for professional software mainly that and visual appeal, and you will hate the limited OS if your accustomed to windows. Heck you can get a better spec hi-res sexy gaming laptop for less than a new macbook, but if unless you want gaming machine, don't worry about laptop graphics cards. If your on the cheap, samsung and asus make some decent good looking budget ones I hear.
>> No. 396 [Edit]
>> No. 397 [Edit]
Okay so, my restore disks ordered from gateway failed on my laptop. Nobody wants me to buy from gateway, but whatever. Now that windows is evidently gone and I can't reinstall it, (it won't run on a boot) is it possible to install Linux Mint? I've partitioned Linux Mint on it before, but I did it from windows (it was complex and weird and I had a guy help me via the net.) I'd like to do that again, but my laptop's disk drive is done for and I have a USB disk drive to plug into it, which I used to run the restore disks multiple times (not my first restore.) I might've tried it with a new hard drive but I always get buyer's remorse.

Also, the computer I'm currently on got some blue screens one day. I have the logs and other additional information but I don't know if it's okay to post here or if I should take it to a tech support forum. They don't like pirated stuff though which I engage in often for the love of 2hu.

Beyond this I'm PC illiterate and would like to learn some things about computers, so that I don't need assistance to do this stuff anymore. Do the people here have this kind of stuff from experience using it, or are there books I should read?

Is a trustworthy website?

Thank you for this thread, I'll be returning to this post. I read some of the thread. This is appropriate right? I'm sorry.
>> No. 398 [Edit]
Something is wrong with my computer and I cant figure out what, its really bumming me out.
It crashes when I play games, the screen goes black and most of the time the audio dies and I have to turn it off and on again. This happens more often when I've got my gtx 680 plugged in, but sometimes when I use my old graphics card too. It also takes ages to use the search function, and sometimes that makes my computer crashes too. The search function also seems to work better when Im using my old graphics card but that might just be my imagination.
Nothing seems to overheart, I've done a bios update, reinstalled windows on different hard drives, changed ram and graphics card. I really dont know whats wrong.

Intel Core i7 3770 3,4Ghz (Ivy Bridge)
Asus P8Z77-V PRO
EVGA GeForce GTX 680 2048MB Superclocked
Corsair 16GB (4x4096MB) CL9 1600Mhz VENGEANCE

Any idea on what to do?
>> No. 399 [Edit]
What PSU are you using? Have you tried following any troubleshooting guides on the internet?

Unrelated, but why did you get a locked processor with that Z77 motherboard?
>> No. 400 [Edit]
File 136603453464.jpg - (258.36KB , 1024x1421 , cr.jpg )
>What PSU are you using?
sp-s850m, ive tried changing it
>Have you tried following any troubleshooting guides on the internet?
Yes, but I couldn't find any that was very relevant to my problem
>Unrelated, but why did you get a locked processor with that Z77 motherboard?
Because i wasnt thinking about what I was doing, and I got the motherboard cheap
>> No. 401 [Edit]
Eh, got it to work, I dont know why, I didnt do anything that I havent tried before.
>> No. 402 [Edit]
File 13755889182.png - (32.76KB , 547x710 , ss (2013-08-04 at 03_43_00).png )
Ever since I reformatted my PC it's been having issues.

Sometimes, whether I'm playing a demanding game or just browsing the net, the display driver stops responding. It'll then either recover or the whole PC will freeze up and I'll have to restart it.

Often some web pages will just refuse to load. I don't know why, for example one day I couldn't connect to any steam related websites, today I can't connect to google. This hadn't happened before and they're only ever down for just me.

Now I'm also getting a high GPU temperature reading at idle (~65C).

I've run chkdsk and memtest, no problems detected with either. Installed updates, including GPU driver updates.

Not sure if pic will help.
>> No. 403 [Edit]
How are you sure it's the display driver? Does Windows pop up a small window saying it crashed?

Some things you can also try, if you haven't yet:
- Scan for malware
- Do a clean boot and see if the system runs stable, check for strange services/programs while you're at it
- sfc /scannow

While casually searching for the error you said that BSOD gave you I stumbled upon this: (humongous link ahead)
At some point in the second page some of the people affected mentioned the error being linked to conflicting system monitoring software, might wanna check that.
Other than that it seems mostly related to overclocking and bad cores.
>> No. 404 [Edit]
File 137565799775.jpg - (484.05KB , 1500x1700 , ss (2013-08-05 at 10_38_51).jpg )
>How are you sure it's the display driver? Does Windows pop up a small window saying it crashed?
Most times, yeah. That "display driver has stopped responding and has recovered" thing.

Ran a malware scan yesterday, it found some things but I think they were all just cracks/keygens, removed them all anyway, just in case.

sfc /scannow says everything is fine.

>At some point in the second page some of the people affected mentioned the error being linked to conflicting system monitoring software
Haven't had any of that installed except for coretemp, speedfan and hw monitor which were after I started having troubles, and I uninstalled them after using each. I do remember there being some power management software preinstalled, but I didn't reinstall whatever it was after the reformat.

>Other than that it seems mostly related to overclocking
Haven't done any of that, though when I did buy this PC, I wasn't the one that assembled it, the store I bought the parts from did. Though I doubt they would've done any overclocking or anything.

I'll try that clean boot some time, but I'm not sure how much good it'd do considering the crashing is mostly random (at least, I think so) and if it crashed while I wasn't around, it might actually recover without me noticing.

Is there anything I can do to test my cores or something?

Pic: installed programs and malware scan results.

Thanks for the help, by the way.
>> No. 405 [Edit]
Thinking back, I don't remember having these problems before I bought that second monitor and used a program called DisplayFusion, then uninstalled it. It left some features behind like having the log-on screen changed, and having a different wallpaper set on the second monitor. I don't know if this could be the cause of anything, but might be worth mentioning.
>> No. 406 [Edit]
File 137591086257.png - (34.22KB , 770x362 , tentacles.png )
How do I make the the best use of a seedbox on a private tracker like Animebytes?
>> No. 407 [Edit]
>I'll try that clean boot some time, but I'm not sure how much good it'd do considering the crashing is mostly random (at least, I think so) and if it crashed while I wasn't around, it might actually recover without me noticing.
It's still better to do it. Just by checking what executables/services start with the system you might spot something that shouldn't be there and perhaps it's the culprit. You can always check the system logs to see if something important happened while you were away.

>Is there anything I can do to test my cores or something?
There are some stress tests, but I wouldn't go that alley just now. It's quite impossible that your processor is defective and in general CPUs(or cores, for that matter) don't have the habit of dying(unless they are killed).

Rolling the system back to before the problems started(i.e. when you installed that program) might help, if you have a restoration point that far back.
>> No. 408 [Edit]

download something popular, and then seed it 24/7 at max upload (especially while you're sleeping, out of the house, or not using the internet).

You may also want to make sure housemates aren't using the internet before you uncap the upload and let it go nuts.

really, the only reason you'd want a seedbox is if you can't keep the computer on 24/7 to seed stuff. Since you're on tohno, there's a 90% chance this really doesn't apply to you much.
>> No. 409 [Edit]
I cleaned up that displayfusion stuff and clean booted, no crashes yet. Only had ~5 programs to disable, too. Could just be luck, but it's been awhile since it's gone this long without crashing.

I don't know it AB has a Top 10 (last day/week) thing like, but I usually seed those.

Or if you have painfully slow upload.
>> No. 410 [Edit]
MPC has stopped working. It just will not launch.
Okay, it will launch. It hangs in the process tree for like 5 seconds in Task Manager and then instantly closes. Task Manager also says that I'm running at a CPU Usage of ~14% whenever I try to launch it, so that shouldn't really be it. I've tried uninstalling MPC and reinstalling, and I've ran a complete deep scan with Avast! a few times and tried ADWCleaner just to absolutely make sure there's nothing malicious going on, and neither have found anything.
What do I do?
>> No. 411 [Edit]

once opened, what does it's memory consumption do before it closes itself (task manager should show this info)?
Does this happen when you open a specific video file, or for all of them?
Have you tried uninstalling the entire combined community codec pack, or did you only uninstall the MPC video player?
Does this same thing happen when you open those same video files with another video player, such as VLC or WMP11?
>> No. 412 [Edit]
>once opened, what does it's memory consumption do before it closes itself
It sticks at 4,800-something. Doesn't change at all.

>Does this happen when you open a specific video file, or for all of them?
It does that with every file, as well as just opening it from the .exe.

>Have you tried uninstalling the entire combined community codec pack, or did you only uninstall the MPC video player?
I just uninstalled the video player itself, I'm going to go try uninstalling everything right now.

>Does this same thing happen when you open those same video files with another video player, such as VLC or WMP11?
Every file opens just fine in WMP.

It's also worth noting that this happened out of nowhere. A few days before this all happened, everything was working fine, and then the next day it just suddenly broke.
>> No. 413 [Edit]
I just tried uninstalling and reinstalling everything using the guide and I got to the part where it said to open MPC-HC to uncheck "auto-load subtitles" and MPC wouldn't open even after following the directions to a tee.
>> No. 414 [Edit]
File 137697146276.jpg - (27.85KB , 602x192 , CCCP.jpg )
so even after uninstalling the program, rebooting the comp, and installing fresh, in that exact order, the problem is not fixed?

When you open the folder containing mpc and it's .dlls, do the file sizes match with the pic of mine?
>> No. 415 [Edit]
I don't have CCCP, I'm assuming I should try that one too?

The sizes are the same except for the mpc-hc exe itself, which is 11,265 KB.
>> No. 416 [Edit]
there are different versions of mpc-hc, and with the new (~1 year ago) feature of 'auto-update', I wouldn't be surprised if one of the "new and stable" versions that mpc-hc updated itself to was the problem.

other things to try:
update video card drivers and see if it works then.
if you're using the latest drivers, rollback to a previous version of the video driver and see if that changes anything.

oh, and don't forget to look at the forums. Be sure to read through the gigantic sticky of common problems before making a new post though.
>> No. 1288 [Edit]
Been wanting to build a new pc for a while now. Thought it'd be good to get a second opinion or two on the part list since this would be my first time building my own pc. Some pricy stuff I know but I don't mind saving up for em. I'm behind my pc almost all day everyday anyway so might as well get something decent.

GTX 980 wildforce


MSI 970A-G43

AMD FX-8350


CORSAIR Vengeance pro


Didn't list the case because I already went ahead and got a raidmax super helios I'll be using on this build. Also, I'd like to eventually latter down the line get a second GTX 980 and run them in sli. btw, I was also trying to keep the color scheme in mind when selecting stuff too.
>> No. 1290 [Edit]
I've already got a 1tb HDD which used to be my C: until I got a SSD on this system. That and 6TB across my three external drives.
>> No. 1291 [Edit]
seconding >>1289
get a 128gb SSD, and then a few 2-3 TB storage drives. All you need on the SSD is an OS and a limited set of core programs.

Also, you are getting overclocked RAM, but I am highly skeptical of your cheap MOBO supporting it. You may have to do some digging through the MSI website or perhaps give customer service a call to see whether or not it is supported; in either case, I recommend spending an extra bit of money and getting an ASUS motherboard.

Lastly, your case may need some work....
Especially if you plan on using a gigantic cooler. which may not physically fit inside the case, also the torque it will put on your mobo while the case is vertical may cause issues over time.
I recommend

You will have plenty of room to put in new things, such as secondary graphics cards and have a lot more room for your fans to keep everything nice and cool.

also, be sure to check amazon as well while searching. They tend to be slightly cheaper, and if you put the whole computer into one order, chances are shipping will be free and get to you quicker.
>> No. 1292 [Edit]
Thanks for the reply. As mentioned here >>1290 I have plenty of storage.
Another cpu fan I considered was this
I'm mostly just using newegg as reference and do plan on shopping around once I start buying parts. As I mentioned I already bought a case after doing a lot of shopping around for a design that I liked, which I got off amazon while it was on sale.

I was admittedly a bit concerned about the mobo, took a look at some asus boards and came across this
Think that'd be good enough?
>> No. 1293 [Edit]
Looks solid.
Note that the EVO version of that motherboard is meant for RAID configurations, but if you don't bother with RAID (and with SSDs and SATA HDDS, RAID set ups are fairly obsolete for most enthusiast users so I wouldn't recommend bothering with RAID at all) the PRO is the one I would recommend of the two.
>> No. 1294 [Edit]
Thanks, yeah I can't really see myself doing a RAID set up. Having my os on a single SSD is good enough for me.
>> No. 1297 [Edit]
Yeah don't skimp on the mobo, but don't go full bling either. Any reason for getting an amd cpu? I'd just grab a midrange Intel core i5, doesn't have to be latest gen. With that you won't need as big a cooler, for one. More importantly I implore you to go for a gtx 970 instead. The sacrifice in performance is insignificant, and you'll save a lot of money. You can also go cheaper on the ram, as long as the brand is decent - e.g. kingston, corsair. I think having a 250gb ssd is fine if you plan on having more than a few games installed at any given time. PSU is fine, just about anything corsair and seasonic goes. About the prospect of sli: my recommendation is to just upgrade to a new gen card when the time comes, and sell your old card. With this you won't need that high wattage on your psu.

The trick with selecting components is knowing what brands to get, how to balance your budget between the various components, and what kinds of specs to prioritize. More watts, cores and hertz isn't always better. Personally I value system stability very highly. I also implore you to disregard color matching on internal components, focus on price and quality.

Make sure everything will fit inside your case, check the specified measurements on all ends.
>> No. 1302 [Edit]
>>1297 >>1299
>Any reason for getting an amd cpu?
I've currently got an amd quad core in my system, guess it's mostly the familiarity.
I wanted to get a good quality cpu since some emulators (mainly pcsx2) seem to be very cpu demanding.
That said I have been hearing lately that intel cpus are better for gaming, but when looking at intel I found that something like the i7-4790K would only be a minor improvement over the FX-8350, but at nearly twice the cost.
An i5-4690K after looking into it seems more reasonable though.
I may have to rethink the cpu here, and as such what mobo to go with.

>I also implore you to disregard color matching on internal components
I get where you're coming from here. Call me weird but I'd like to have something I could feel proud of, and I can be kinda anal about having stuff match. I mean granted I have no friends to show the thing off to but it'd still be nice to have something cool looking sitting here next to me all the time. Like how figs don't serve any practical purpose but are nice to look at. I don't think it'd be that much of an issue anyway, tons of stuff out there comes in multiple colors to choose from. Even with grapicscards I doubt I'd be going with a reference model so there'd be plenty of aftermarket gpus to pick from in all styles. Besides, tons of stuff out there comes in blue anyways. My current system on the otherhand is something of a black and white theme, and for some reason white components aren't very common out there, not as much as red, blue, and green.

>my recommendation is to just upgrade to a new gen card when the time comes, and sell your old card. With this you won't need that high wattage on your psu.
As mentioned I'd be getting a single card, I just wanna keep the option open is all then see how things go latter down the line.

Thanks again for the responses.
>> No. 1303 [Edit]
>As mentioned I'd be getting a single card, I just wanna keep the option open is all then see how things go latter down the line.
Sure, nothing wrong with that. Should you however at some point consider adding another card, just toss it out of the window. It's such a hassle.

>I may have to rethink the cpu here, and as such what mobo to go with.
Good. I made the mistake of upgrading an AMD cpu because I already had an AMD cpu. It ended up with side-grading to Intel. Generally the intel chipset mobo's are also of higher quality, and with greater availability. In conclusion you have to look at the product, and not the brand, when it comes to cpu's and gpu's. It just so happens that Intel and Nvidia has had the better options lately.

Good luck, hit us up again whenever.
>> No. 1319 [Edit]
File 143258639747.jpg - (2.16MB , 1366x1536 , x220 photos.jpg )
Could anyone help me out with a problem I'm having here? I've spent countless hours searching online but can't find much on this problem.

For whatever reason random parts of random files will show up as corrupted on my 64gb SD card when connected to my x220t. When connected to my desktop everything on the card is fine. I say it's random because the corruption jumps around every time I remove the sd card and put it back in. For example, if I play a video off the card it'll glitch out at 5:34 for example, and will glitch out at 5:34 even if I close the video and try again, but if I remove the card and play it again it might glitch out at 4:23 or 6:17 or so on.
windows (8.1) shows that there are no errors when scanning the card.
In my searches it seems people with the same laptop had a card reader that didn't work at all or worked fine, but nothing between like this.

Now then, I've tried installing three different drivers so far.

and even tried a bios update.

So far none of this has fixed the issue.
I've also suspected that it may be due to the size of the card, since I've test a 4gb sd card on this laptop with the same source files and they showed up fine. Figured maybe it was due to the card being exfat and not fat32, so I did a complete format with windows, then again with a utility into fat32.

I'm really at wits end with this here and any help would be greatly appreciated.
As a last resort I think I might uninstall windows 8.1 and just go with win7 since that's what the laptop originally had on it (bought it used without a hdd, but it's got the win7 sticker)
>> No. 1320 [Edit]
maybe you could try formatting the card to ntfs? not sure but it may be worth a try at least

also about what you said about switching to windows 7: even if you do it might not work since it could be a hardware problem and not a driver problem, maybe.

I have a starry sky background on my laptop too!

Post edited on 25th May 2015, 2:10pm
>> No. 1321 [Edit]
Does anyone have experience using rsync for backups? I plan on using it to transfer everything from one drive to another (smaller) one in a few days once it arrives. Before I have used clonezilla but only when the drive I am cloning to is larger than the original, and I'm pretty sure it doesn't work when the original is larger. right?
>> No. 1324 [Edit]
File 143260101977.jpg - (945.93KB , 1366x768 , x220t photos 2.jpg )
Thanks for trying to help butI formatted into ntfs and the problem remains.
I don't think it's a hardware problem though since my 4gb sd card works fine on the system.
>> No. 1325 [Edit]
As long as there's no limitation in space, I don't see why it wouldn't work with your other application. I take it you're copying a filesystem, and not just a bunch of files?
>> No. 1326 [Edit]
Yes, a filesystem.
>> No. 1327 [Edit]
Well, I did it today, and it worked just fine. Neat stuff.
>> No. 1329 [Edit]
I found out what the problem was and was able to fix it. After doing more research I found the problems I was having were similar to those found in dying SD cards and bootlegs. I contacted the seller and explained the situation, they sent me a similar but different replacement card. The card looked never used (no marks on the connectors) but came without packaging. It too had very similar problems but not as severe, and for some reason the data error would jump around without restarting/unplugging. Just closing the viewer/player and opening it again would make the error jump to a new spot. I bought a 128 PNY SD card from a different source and so far it works flawlessly. I think the other seller was handing out bootlegs after all. I have no clue why those cards worked fine on my pc but whatever.
>> No. 1350 [Edit]
Anyone know how to get rainmeter to messure space on sd cards? mine just come up as 0.0 b/0.0 b used.
>> No. 1381 [Edit]
File 145168757855.jpg - (573.37KB , 1200x900 , DSC01218.jpg )
It took a long time, but I finally got my system built.
I think I started gathering parts in early April of 2015, had the psu and mobo sitting around for months. Wasn't till relatively recently that I just said fuck it and got the rest of the components.
It's running a i7-4790k, gtx970, 16gbddr3, with two 250gb Samsung ssd.

This was a ground up build as almost everything was obsolete on my old system. I thought I could at least reuse the ram but the current mobo doesn't support ddr2. only thing I was able to take was the hard drive.
Ended up tossing a spare hard drive in my old system from a busted laptop and figure I'll use it in the living room for mulimedia.
>> No. 1382 [Edit]
File 145168768817.jpg - (573.37KB , 1200x900 , DSC01218.jpg )
>>1288 here.

It took a long time, but I finally got my system built.
I think I started gathering parts in early April of 2015, had the psu and mobo sitting around for months. Wasn't till relatively recently that I just said fuck it and got the rest of the components.
It's running a i7-4790k, Gigabyte gtx 970, 16gb of Corsair ddr3 1600, Asrock z97 extreme3, Corsair hx750i, with two 250gb Samsung ssd (one on OS and one for games, not raid), and a enermax black twister.

This was a ground up build as almost everything was obsolete on my old system. I thought I could at least reuse the ram but the current mobo doesn't support ddr2. only thing I was able to take was the hard drive.
Ended up tossing a spare hard drive in my old system from a busted laptop and figure I'll use it in the living room for mulimedia.

Post edited on 1st Jan 2016, 8:31pm
>> No. 1384 [Edit]
Sounds and looks good.

I recently changed laptop. I meant to get a Lenovo Y50, but somehow fucked up real good and got a Y510p instead. The main difference is that I got a GT755m instead of a GTX860m or superior. I'm still trying to mend it, finding someone nearby to arrange some mutually beneficial deal.
>> No. 1385 [Edit]
File 145170476495.jpg - (86.72KB , 766x810 , 1406098133011.jpg )
>I thought I could at least reuse the ram but the current mobo doesn't support ddr2

exactly how old was your previous motherboard?
>> No. 1386 [Edit]
File 145170823871.jpg - (125.87KB , 728x547 , for-font-b-GATEWAY-b-font-ACER-DX4300-03-SYSTEM-BO.jpg )
I think the motherboard was a ' MB.G0409.005 '.
>> No. 1388 [Edit]
File 145199664343.jpg - (25.20KB , 390x300 , 1310199162472.jpg )
I hate that pic so much.
>> No. 1389 [Edit]
And now I am actually crying.
>> No. 1390 [Edit]
Doesn't affect me so badly, probably because I still love and care for my Windows ME installation.
>> No. 1401 [Edit]
Not a real problem here, just kinda looking for advice or recommendations.
The 1tb HDD I used primary for music recently took a shit on me (but I can still get data off if I play with the power cable). I was able to get a 4tb HDD at a decent price, but really don't need that much space for just music. My 3tb HDD I use for videos is practically full, same for my 2tb used for games.
My question is this. would it be a dumb move to transfer all the data from my 3tb drive to my new 4tb drive then transfer all the data from my 2tb to my 3tb and use the 2tb for music? or should I just leave them alone and used the 4tb not only for music but also as overflow for videos and games? Thanks in advance.
>> No. 1402 [Edit]
I don't see anything wrong with doing a big move like that, it's nice to be organized. The real question is how patient are you? If you're willing to spend, like, literally a day or two transferring terabytes of information from drive to drive, then go ahead. Just be aware it might impact performance of your computer a little.
>> No. 1403 [Edit]
Alright cool. My real concern was putting undo stress on the drives and maybe having some issues with the data that's been sitting there for years, but I guess I'm probably just over thinking it.
>> No. 1404 [Edit]

your idea would be the most realistic method of keeping everything together.

I would recommend it over the lazy way of having chunks of everything overflowing everywhere, especially if you plan on actually watching/playing any of the 5 TB stuff you downloaded a couple years down the line and not need to do a lot of hunting.

alternatively, you can go through and delete all the crap you won't watch again or already played or won't get to playing anytime within the next few years. The longer you wait, the worse the problem gets.
>> No. 1405 [Edit]
File 145592375127.png - (133.44KB , 450x286 , transfer.png )
much fun
>> No. 1406 [Edit]
Transfer is still going, really didn't think it'd take this long...
>> No. 1413 [Edit]
Just out of curiosity, if the back light on a monitor is starting to die is it even possible to fix it or should one just toss the thing in the trash?
>> No. 1414 [Edit]
I was able to pick up a modem for like $5 from a yardsale ( Netgear CG3000D ) and it has built in wifi. I've been using a isp provided modem and a wifi router up till now. With this new device is there any reason to still use a separate router? I've heard there can be security issues with using just a modem alone.
>> No. 1415 [Edit]
File 145893844365.gif - (126.26KB , 429x650 , 1429809245351.gif )

the problem isn't so much whether the modem and router are one device or two, it's that ISPs do some really shady shit with the "built in" router.

They use it to log and keep track of a good amount of your parametric data (what domains/IPs you visit often, how much in total you upload/download) from YOU, as well as being the throttle for making sure you only get as much bandwidth as you pay for. Also, if your internet company is also in the cell phone business, your router may be a "free-wifi" point for anybody near by with their service unless you wrap the antenna in tin foil. Another always-on thing that was built into the router.

Then there's the additional security issues that they go out of their way to build into the routers. They generally have multiple backdoors built into them, which makes things easy to fix when a dumbass locks himself out of the router, but it presents a very significant security issue if the codes ever get leaked. Note that those backdoors will generally work so long as the router is plugged in, remote on/off and settings flashing through the cable and through the wireless (even when the wireless is set to off) are the ones I've had personal experience with, but I wouldn't doubt more sinister ones existing.

Oh, and you physically can not bypass the built in router to hook up to the modem, so an additional router really doesn't do anything aside from use as a hub for additional Ethernet cable outlets to the internet.

On the bright side, the ISPs generally don't cheap out when it comes to hardware specs for the built in routers. Most of them are fairly decent, or would be if it wasn't for the issues listed.
>> No. 1476 [Edit]
Thats very informative, thank you.
>> No. 1487 [Edit]
File 14768502452.jpg - (100.71KB , 750x990 , xmI9qYf.jpg )
I've been messing around on 3DCG (late, I know) but I can't figure out how to gett he hardsaves that people put up to work. I save the .png file in Documents>TechArts3D>TDCG and open up the program only to find it isn't in my saves. Do I need to use something else with it? Am I not saving it in the right place? Clearly I'm doing something wrong but I don't know what that is. Google has not helped me with this so far.

Sorry if this is in the wrong thread or board.
>> No. 1517 [Edit]
I don't suppose anyone here would know how to safely update a PS3 on 4.41 Rogero to the current Rebug?
>> No. 1529 [Edit]
Already took care of this myself.
>> No. 1572 [Edit]
I'm considering buying new HDD's. Maybe one 2TB to relieve two smaller old disks and one 6TB for backups.
All my current drives are Western Digital, haven't had a failure yet but many reviews say that similarly priced HGST is a more reliable brand.
HGST 7K6000 SATA models come in a variety of formats, I'm technologically impaired and can't tell which ones I need.

There's 512n, 4Kn and 512e. I tried to "research" this but didn't understand much from technical documentation.
Some forum posts pointed out that 512n is best for older devices that won't work with new formats, 4Kn is current technology but people had problems because many programs didn't understand 4K sectors and 512e is... 4K pretending to be 512? Some wrote that makes it slower or less reliable.
In WD specifications 2 of my newer HDD's are listed as Advanced Format but it doesn't say which one. In system information all my disks are 512 bytes/sector so "e" I guess?

There are also 3 different security options: BDE (encryption?), SE and ISE (secure data wiping?), at the moment 4Kn versions with encryption are unavailable here.

So I have 6 options for each disk. All of these are probably as good or better than my old HDDs but if I decide to buy them it will probably eat all my money so I feel I need to make the best possible choice.
>> No. 1579 [Edit]
Not exactly computer related. I'm looking to buy a new PC chair and was wondering if you guys could recommend any. Trying to find something moderately comfortable and durable that I can spend almost all day everyday in and wont fall apart after a couple months, under $300 or so.

I'm leaning towards this one:

but also considering these:
>> No. 1580 [Edit]
I'll consider buying used but knowing ebay shipping would be unavailable or too expensive.
Checked locally but there's nothing. Also so far I never trusted my countrymen enough to buy anything used from a stranger.
Noise could be a problem, I find my computer too loud already. I compared declared sound emission from HGST specifications with my current disks and it appeared only slightly louder though I did not expect that some new HDD's can still make that 'oldschool' noise.
Maybe I'll look for other options then.

SMART shows all drives good.
Thanks for the tips.
>> No. 1589 [Edit]
File 151107375493.jpg - (96.69KB , 796x527 , eat a dick.jpg )
Anyone here know how to permanently disable this message? Clicking the third option essentially does the same thing as the second option as it resets every time the pc is restarted. It keeps coming up when I play a game and minimizes said game, which sometimes screws with my pc and makes me unable to get back to the game or my desktop while being left with a black screen (and game audio).
>> No. 1590 [Edit]
Maybe you can try disabling the Troubleshooting messages altogether since it's been such a hindrance. Go tot Control Panel > Action Center (use search if you don't find it) > Left Sidebard > Change Action Center Settings > Look for "Windoews Troubleshooting" under "Maintenance Messages" > Untick the box > Click OK Button.
>> No. 1591 [Edit]
File 151108649339.jpg - (60.89KB , 1115x666 , gfdgdfgfdgdf.jpg )
I had already tried that and it hasn't worked.
>> No. 1593 [Edit]
Did you manage to fix this?
>> No. 1594 [Edit]
I ended up going to the .exe's properties for the game and checking disable desktop composition, haven't had the problem since.
>> No. 1659 [Edit]
Not exactly computer related but wasn't sure where else to ask. Any who, this might seem like a yahoo answers grade of stupid question but I need to know. Is there a difference between UV/black light and purple light? I have some RGB LED lights and don't want to damage my stuff with UV. If they're set to purple or blue, would it cause any negative effects?
>> No. 1660 [Edit]
Yes, they both emit different frequencies of light within the electromagnetic spectrum, I recommend good ol' wikipedia, it's a fun read:
>> No. 1661 [Edit]
UV light will probably have a negative effect on your figs. Similar to if you left it out in the sunlight.

Your UV lightbulb is probably low power, but extended exposure will have negative effects. A small amount won't be too bad though.

UV and red light have big difference in energy. UV carries energy enough to mess with the carbon-carbon bonds in your PVC or skin, which is why UV light causes sunburns.
>> No. 1788 [Edit]
To partition or not to partition? I've installed an 8TB HDD, haven't formatted yet.
I always partitioned out of habit but I don't know this time.
Are there any downsides to running this disk as one big ol' partition?
I guess I'll use it to back up most of my stuff first. When that's done I'll keep all of my downloads there.
So far I feel like I don't have a reason to split it, but I'm not good at computers so I don't know if I'm not saying something really stupid.
>> No. 1789 [Edit]
Maybe format a few hundred GB (or less) of that as a partition to occasionally backup your main OS partition to.
>> No. 1790 [Edit]
Why partition your HDD?
More importantly is you should encrypt your harddrives, use veracrypt.
>> No. 1791 [Edit]

I've only used TrueCrypt and later VeraCrypt with flash drives I was afraid of losing outside. Even then I only made separate file containers, never full drive encryption.
Does doing that on PC require a clean HDD, or can it be done with ones already full without losing any data?
I also have BitLocker available but never tried enabling it.
>> No. 1805 [Edit]
File 155062442131.png - (1.19MB , 1833x860 , cdm-comparison-ss.png )
An cheaper way to get 8tb HDDs is shucking i.e. buying an external HDD and taking it out of the casing. You can save a lot of money this way. Buy the My Book 8tb (Less than 8tb disks are said to be blues) and take the hard drive out of the external case. It has a white label now but it's the same as red, might even be a HGST He-10 drive (not 10tb though).
I used part of its packaging material and a TX8 screwdriver, it worked for this guy with guitar picks and pliers.

You can reuse the case for other disks with a simple modification explained here:

It has to be encrypted with an existing OS and no files will be lost, you can use your computer while it's encrypting, there shouldn't be any problems (I haven't had any). Encrypted OS will ask for a pre-boot password, this will be in US keyboard layout.

As for devices, you will be given an option to 'encrypt and format' or 'encrypt in place', former is the fastest but all existing files on the partition/device will be lost, the latter will keep your files intact but encrypting will take looonger the more data it has.

In both cases make a backup of your files, just to be safe. After successful encryption transfer files over and secure erase the unencrypted device.
>> No. 1840 [Edit]
File 155741846098.jpg - (25.57KB , 500x375 , help.jpg )
I saved some audio files from the internet that appear to be corrupt, I have no idea what to do about them.
They're .m4a which can't be renamed, moved, copied, deleted or anything.
They can be played (I'm using foobar) although strange things happen- I have to choose a default program for opening .m4a every time I open these particular files (doesn't happen with other uncorrupted mp4), and in the player they figure under a different name than in explorer. When I was saving these files I gave them normal names but when played they display only a short string of random letters and numbers.
I tried to repair them with VLC by 'converting' the tracks to the same format and saving them again which worked in the past but with these fuckers VLC just freezes.
Help. Save me.
>> No. 1841 [Edit]
OK, I was able to crudely fix this.
When I downloaded the files I just copied and pasted their full titles with all the tags and stuff. I should have gotten a bad filename error but for some reason I didn't, they just got saved with way too long names.
Tried downloading the same mp4's again and with shorter names everything works as usual.
To get rid of the 'frozen' files I had to download Total Commander (which apparently doesn't get confused by ridiculously long filenames or something) and erase them through shift+del.
>> No. 1844 [Edit]
My piece of shit father broke his phone, without even asking he took an old one my mother was using as a media player, erased everything.
I don't even have a phone, I don't know what to do with it. Can deleted data be recovered through PC somehow?
>> No. 1845 [Edit]
If those files were located on a SD card you for sure will get to recover files albeit corrupted with programs like recuva.
>> No. 1846 [Edit]
He won't give me the card. I suppose nothing can be recovered from internal memory? That's that I guess. Thanks anyway.
>> No. 1848 [Edit]
I wanted to move stuff from one HDD to another without having to reinstall all my shit. Would it work if I cloned a drive and then renamed the new one to be the same as the old one? I've never tried it. Could you also recommend a cloning program for Windows?
>> No. 1849 [Edit]
Yes that should work (I have done this on non-windows platforms but I don't see any reason why it shouldn't be the same on windows as well since from the OS point of view it's essentially addressing an indentical disk, and if just clone all the partition maps and everything should remain identical. Plus even if something does go wrong you still have the original HDD).

As for cloning software that you can run on windows, I've heard of filezilla which I'm assuming is free/open source. It may not be as polished UI wise as some of the shareware options but you'll probably be able to find a tutorial online walking through the steps.
>> No. 1850 [Edit]
File 155839580826.png - (727.95KB , 1003x581 , hdd.png )
I've used 'zilla (pretty sure its clonezilla, filezilla is ftp) years ago successfully but remember it being a bit complicated and wondering if it would work till it finally finished. Remember something about it not liking to clone to different size disks (particularly if large to small). That might be fixed now though. Years later used a program called minitool partition wizard which was fairly simple since then that has a "copy disk wizard" that you can resize partitions and stuff. Heard other people suggest macrium reflect, not sure if that's any better.
>> No. 1851 [Edit]
Thanks guys.
Clonezilla has detailed step by step instructions but it says it doesn't work with GPT disks when trying to clone from smaller to larger volumes.
I'll try the other programs. Hopefully I won't make my komputar explode.
>> No. 1852 [Edit]
If you can boot from its live CD, using GParted is pretty much the swiss army knife for any disk stuff. Still probably more hassle than using one of the native windows software, but it's worth a mention.
>> No. 1864 [Edit]
Anyone else having issues with Pale Moon? My browser became unusable earlier today, not sure why. I think it broke after I updated it. It's retardedly slow and freezes constantly.
>> No. 1865 [Edit]
Didn't notice anything odd with the 28.6.1 update. Only bug I still notice is often when typing in the url bar on a new tab, enter won't work and you'll get no suggestions. Need to close the tab for a new one to get around that.
>> No. 1866 [Edit]
Something else happened.
I reverted to an earlier version but it didn't help.
Looks like one of my extensions was broken so I disabled them and tried to update the browser again. It required a restart which I did but now it won't launch at all, only showing the restart prompt every time.
I have no idea what to do now. Maybe it's because after logging in I have to manually unlock the drive all of my stuff is on, I don't know.
What do?
>> No. 1867 [Edit]
I also tried to set drives to unlock automatically with system drive on boot but the Pale Moon update is still stuck on reboot prompt.
>> No. 1868 [Edit]
File 156422853641.png - (4.43KB , 140x93 , Screenshot at 2019-07-27 07-54-37.png )
I would backup your browser profile data (in appdata if windows), the default profile is named dfsjsdh.default. Remove the plugins from the extensions folder in the original to see if it will start.
>> No. 1869 [Edit]
I just don't understand computers.
I wanted to follow your suggestions but first I thought I'd install another copy of the browser in another folder as plan B.
The idea I had was to try copying the old profile onto the new installation if your method didn't work.
I launched the 'fresh' browser and it appears to be in exactly the same state I left the old one in.
The usual copy of the browser still won't launch but the new one seems to be working.
I'm confused.
I think I'll back up everything now, uninstall both copies then import the backups after reinstalling to my usual browser folder.
>> No. 1881 [Edit]
This is a complain rather than an asking for help but it still relates to IT troubleshooting and I don't know where else to post it. I installed Visual Studio 2019 Community and since something broke, I decided to uninstall and install it again. But apparently, for the new version of Visual Studio you only get ONE chance at deciding the installation path. From microsoft website:
>This location is set with your first installation and cannot be changed later from the installer UI. Instead, you must use command-line parameters to move the download cache.

The installation path is literally grayed out and pointing to drive that doesn't exist anymore since I changed the drive's letter and partitioned it. After calming down, I followed the advice and run the installer from cmd. It would worked well but then I wouldn't be making this post. My command was something like:
>vs_community --add Microsoft.VisualStudio.Workload.CoreEditor --path install="C:\VS" --path cache="E:\VS\cache" --path shared="E:\VS\shared"

It didn't work. I've tried uninstalling the installer (Yes, the installer is an application of its own now) and redownloading it but the path is still grayed out so it's probably lodged in the registry or whatever and I don't have the skill to change it. So I kept googling and finding no solutions until I came across this thread in the developer community of visual studio:
>We appreciate you taking the time to report this problem. Currently, the value in question can only be set on first install due to the complexity of tryign to relocate previously installed components. Moving forward, we are going to investigate the option to relocate these packages after the first installation. For now, the value is disabled if a previous install is detected.

>After careful evaluation of the problem impact and severity we are closing this problem as low priority. We understand that this might not be an ideal resolution for you, but be assured that we don’t make these decisions lightly.

Then some lifesaver posted below:
>You can change directory in registry at path "Computer\HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\VisualStudio\Setup", find the SharedInstallationPath and modify. Good luck :D

Everything should be fine since I finally got the installation running but its not. I wasted a lot of time for this. I wasted a lot of time trying to get one of the most popular IDE in the world that is made by one of the biggest technology company to work just because I want to change a fucking installation path. You have this gigantic IT company that can't even put a working guide on their website and their IT support has he nerve to call my problem low priority and blaming it on the "complexity of tryign to relocate previously installed components" or whatever the FUCK WHEN SOME RANDOM EMOTICON USING VIETNAMESE CODEMONKEY IS MORE HELPFUL THEN HIM. WHY THE FUCK IS THE INSTALLATION PATH LOCKED IN THE FIRST PLACE? DO THEY THINK PEOPLE ARE TOO STUPID TO DECIDE FOR THEMSELVES WHERE THEY WANT TO PUT THEIR FILES? WHAT THE FUCK DO YOU MEAN COMPLEXITY? IT'S LITERALLY JUST A FUCKING STRING IN THE REGISTRY. WHY IS INSTALLER ONLINE? WHY IS IT SO BLOATED? WHY IS WINDOWS SUCH A PIECE A OF SHIT? WHY DO EVERYBODY PROGRAM IN .NET LANGUAGE? FUCK YOU BILL GATES YOU FAGGOT JEW. I AM GOING TO BURN DOWN YOUR OVERPRICED GIMMICKY HOUSE AND FUCK YOU IN THE ASS. JUST YOU WAIT YOU BITCH.
>> No. 1882 [Edit]
I just use system restore whenever I fuck up something hard to fix. Yeah, windows does suck though. A lot of cad software is exclusive to it and fuck using macos.
>> No. 1883 [Edit]
USB drive problem here.
It's been abused, I bent it a couple of times by accidentally walking into it while it was plugged into a front panel, but it always worked alright.
Well, not anymore. When I plug it in the device is recognized and listed as working correctly but it can't be accessed. I get a 'location is not available/accessible/access denied' error.
CHKDSK finds no problems.
Can I do anything to recover the shit I have in there?
>> No. 1885 [Edit]
Is it formatted in NTFS? If so, the MFT and MFT mirror is possibly corrupt. TestDisk won't do anything since it's not a partition problem.
The only tool that actually manages to ignore the corrupt records and process the rest as normal is File Recovery in "Active Partition Recovery Profession".
NTFS is a bad filesystem with bad/no tools.
>> No. 1886 [Edit]
Yes. TestDisk didn't do anything but I recovered some stuff with PhotoRec.
I guess that's it.
>> No. 1887 [Edit]
Photorec doesn't do much since it scans for file headers and should be left as a last resort. Save for 1-2 files (that sit on the front of the MFT) the rest should be intact and full recovery is likely.
I fudged its name, search for "Active Partition Recovery Professional v15.0.0 Portable" and do a Superscan, tick NTFS and None (Fast) under signature recognition.
>> No. 1888 [Edit]
OK. Thank you.
>> No. 1895 [Edit]
File 156955102791.jpg - (37.03KB , 600x800 , 31t.jpg )
I don't need any help. I just wanted to post that I fumbled and dropped one of my perfectly healthy disks like the gigantic and clumsy retard that I am. Now it's dead. Thankfully, I have some redundancy in the form of a backup disk. Thus nothing is gone besides some money for the replacement disk; however, this could have easily resulted in the death of TBs of visual novels and music.
Remember to backup (and carefully handle) your digital crap, TC!
>> No. 1906 [Edit]
I'm using grabber to browse for pictures and it crashed and wiped all the tabs I had open. Is there any way to restore them or some history function I could use?
This is a fucking disaster. I'll never be able to find all of my shit again.
>> No. 1907 [Edit]
Assuming you're on modern Windows, your user-specific crap will be here: "%USERPROFILE%\AppData\Local\Bionus\Grabber". Try opening the tabs.json file in a text editor to see if your stuff is present. Unfortunately, since you've opened Grabber after the crash, this file was most likely overwritten and thus contains nothing of value. I also don't see any automatic backups either.
My condolences, by the way.
>> No. 1908 [Edit]
It's empty. I didn't know it would do that. In the past it crashed on me very rarely and always restored the tabs so I assumed there was some kind of backup.
Fuck damn it. I want to die.
>> No. 1909 [Edit]
What about your favorites? Are they still there?
>> No. 1910 [Edit]
Yes but I found tabs to be more convenient so I almost never saved anything to favourites.
>> No. 1911 [Edit]
The only other thing I can think of is asking some more knowledgeable people--like the main developer himself.
From Grabber's homepage:
>If you have any questions about the program, found a bug and don’t want to use the github issue tracker, or anything, you can contact me by mail in French or in English at
I don't know if the issue tracker is an appropriate place since it's about reporting issues and not soliciting help. An IRC channel or forum would really be beneficial.
In any case, good luck.
>> No. 1985 [Edit]
I have a horrible coil whine problem.
My graphics card started making awful noises today, I can't figure out what the fuck.
Up until now it would often hiss or whistle on things like loading screens or intros like most cards do, but never made any sounds outside of that.
Today it started buzzing and whining like a dying lightbulb (but louder) almost constantly, even on idle in desktop. Sometimes it stops for a couple of seconds. The noise changes in pitch when doing things like scrolling and dragging windows. Stops when the monitor is disconnected. Stops when all windows and programs get closed but then starts again.
I didn't notice any problems other than the noise.
The noise is so fucked up I had to uninstall the thing. Please help.
>> No. 1986 [Edit]
It's not the fans on the gpu is it? I find it hard to imagine anything else on it making an actual sound.
>> No. 1987 [Edit]
>I find it hard to imagine anything else on it making an actual sound
Not OP but coil whine is a pretty-well known quirk of electronics. I think it's the inductor that's actually responsible. I have this on my laptop on any gpu intensive workload.

I think besides mitigations like double-checking inductors are secured to the board and getting a soundproof case, there's not much that can be done.
>> No. 2018 [Edit]
My Microsoft IME doesn't accept kana input anymore.
>> No. 2056 [Edit]
File 159656457438.jpg - (170.10KB , 715x1069 , files size.jpg )
So, my phone has been giving these warnings of no more room in the phone storage, so I installed an app storage analyser and found this out. There's a fucking 9GB folder that's inaccessible, I can't delete anything from this, and every day my free storage shrinks in size, I need to figure a solution out really quick. What to do?
>> No. 2057 [Edit]
Can you try using instead? A proper storage analyzer should enumerate the folders which are taking up the most space.
>> No. 2058 [Edit]
File 159658076446.jpg - (658.81KB , 2168x1248 , disk usage.jpg )
I have installed it and this is what came up. So I noticed first the System Data is 4gb isn't that too much? Anyway, it seems some big part of the memory is being used by some software that already came up with the phone and I never bothered to remove. I should add at least 2gb all, but the thing is these apps do not show when you search in Settings-Storage, so I looked for them in another location, and found other apps, Word, LinkedIn, that are also occupying a great part of the disk, but these don't show up on the DiskUsage app except for a very small file inside the Android folder. However if I go to settings-apps my phone will say they have hundreds of megabytes.
Anyway, I will delete these useless software, even though it says it could damage the phone, it is just a bootless message it seems.
I'm still suspicious that there might be something there in the System Data folder messing up with the phone storage, so I will register today's size and keep an eye for the future.
>> No. 2059 [Edit]
For removing apps, if you're comfortable with the command line you can use adb to remove apps that the settings panel will not let you remove. I don't recall the exact command but something like "adb pm list" should list all apps by packade id, and then "adb pm -k" should allow you to remove it.

I'm not sure what exactly "system data" is comprised of here (I presume it includes the folders which cannot be read without root). If you have

If you had root access this might be easier to diagnose.
>> No. 2083 [Edit]
File 160362764992.png - (38.29KB , 2467x987 , yt.png )
What can be causing this in Pale Moon? I found someone had a similar problem and fixed it by clearing browser cache but it doesn't work. Clearing everything, disabling add-ons does nothing. It randomly goes back to normal for short periods then turns blank again for a couple of days. The site looks normal in Edge.
>> No. 2084 [Edit]
Pathfinder almost caused my PC to die. It crashed twice with a weird green screen, and the second time Windows couldn't start or complete the repairing mode. After one hour or so of trying it just worked for no reason at all. At the end my father was right when 20 years ago used to say videogames broke computers. It's such a pain to play anything these days.
>> No. 2086 [Edit]
I think pale moon doesn't support newer webshit technology like webcomponents [1], and perhaps additionally doesn't support newer javascript (well ecmascript) features. The fact that it's intermittent is probably because google is A/B testing something that relies on one of those.

I'd recommend you use an alternate youtube client like invidious.

>> No. 2155 [Edit]
So recently my computer doesn't POST for some reason. system fully powers on (all lights, fans, GFX card) but won't display anything on monitor besides the lost signal error.
I checked and replaced the ram, and recently RMA'd my board.
could it possibly be my CPU chip or GFX card that is the issue?

Asus x570P
Vengence 16GB Ram
Geforce 1060 super
Corsair RM1000x
Intel 600p SSD 1TB
Seagate 2TB HDD
>> No. 2167 [Edit]
Sorry for bad grammar, im using a phone right now. I kinda turned off my notebook during a mandatory windows update, got the blue error screen, i tried reinitializing and also repair but it always give error, now i tried this "system restauration" to a previous point from yesterday but it is the same loading screen for an hour already. What to do?
>> No. 2168 [Edit]
Go to a computer repair shop.
>> No. 2169 [Edit]
Back up your data, wipe the HD, and restore from scratch?
You can back up your data by booting from a linux live ISO which should then allow you to mount your HD and copy files off of it.
>> No. 2170 [Edit]
Can no longer edit, but if you want to be really safe then you should clone your HD to another one before wiping it. That you have a backup for the future which you can retrieve files from if you need it.

Unless you really don't know what you're doing then going to a repair shop is pointless. They'd just do the above and charge you for it.
>> No. 2171 [Edit]
I'm not a tech expert but I had a rather similar experience not too long ago with the exception of a blue screen. Try to wait it out a little longer and see, I remember it taking quite a long time as well.
>> No. 2176 [Edit]
Thanks for all the help. In the end the restauration thing worked, some sites said it takes only a couple of minutes, but it was around 3 hours of restauration time like >>2171 said too.
>> No. 2245 [Edit]
File 161752278319.jpg - (130.39KB , 800x800 , e0a03457a67f94b40bfee7ada7f0364d.jpg )
I wanted to look at the only wiki about systemspace which actually has some more in-depth information about what happened, but it's not hosted anywhere online. Instead, there's this megadownload of the wiki's contents
The problem is I don't know server shit. The furthest I got after a few hours of messing around was with wamp server 3.2.3, but I get this error and I have no idea was the problem is

Fatal error: Uncaught Error: Class 'MediaWiki\Logger\LegacyLogger' not found in C:\wamp64\www\wiki\includes\debug\logger\LegacySpi.php on line 53
( ! ) Error: Class 'MediaWiki\Logger\LegacyLogger' not found in C:\wamp64\www\wiki\includes\debug\logger\LegacySpi.php on line 53

This is line 53 of LegacySpi.php
$this->singletons[$channel] = new LegacyLogger( $channel );

Please help. For internet history's sake or whatever.
>> No. 2281 [Edit]
Has anyone set up a btrfs or zfs filesystem? After reading this article, I thought that when it came time to upgrade my computer's main disk drive (i.e. the one the OS is installed on) I'd do it by buying a new SSD, making the filesystem one of those two, and installing a whole new Linux distribution on it and copying over the user files I care about. (Currently it's a Linux on a 250 GB SSD with ext4.) There were also some fancy partitioning schemes I wanted to learn about, involving putting /boot and /tmp on their own partitions, putting the user home folder on its own partition, but they're less important to me.
>> No. 2282 [Edit]
I've been looking into it – from cursory readings it seems ZFS is a more "battle-tested" technology, and there's more established tooling around it. I'm still a bit confused by all the zpool stuff, since there are apparently some limitations – things like not being able to change the pool size after you create it (but apparently this can be done if you swap an existing hard drive for a larger one, just not adding a new hard drive)? I feel like there's a lot to read up on and understand though before I'd feel comfortable using it (mainly since I don't want to be blindly poking around when dealing with filesystem level stuff).

Also, does anyone here happen to know how exactly "raid-z" differs from a zpool? Are these two orthogonal things?

But yes the "essentially zero-cost snapshots" and copy-on-write are absolutely wonderful technologies that any modern filesystem should have – even Apple recognized this and replaced their aging HFS+ with APFS (although I still have a soft spot for HFS+ just because of how conceptually simple it is to understand; and their workarounds to achieve posix compliance are a glorious hack).
>> No. 2297 [Edit]
How do I transfer files in Android? To my computer?
I have a full internal storage and a sd card with about 3GB free. Most of it is >>2058 this system data which is has now reached 6 GB. I just want to transfer the Love Live app, but I can't find it in Android-Data. Lots of apps I have seem not to be here.
Also, when I do find, what do I do? Just copy paste them on my pc, and copy paste them back after on a new cellphone when I get one?
>> No. 2298 [Edit]
To transfer user-data (non-application related data) you just connect to your computer; if you're on windows or linux then native MTP drivers will mean that the phone automatically mounts the storage location. If you're on osx then you're out of luck and you have to deal with the shitty "android file transfer" program (if you are planning to do this a lot, there are alternative paid mtp clients available like commander one).

For transferring applications out of the phone, I'm not sure if the default mtp mounting allows you to access files in /data. Probably easiest way I can think off is to just use adb and "adb shell pm list packages" followed by "adb shell pm path [id]" and "adb pull [path]". Note that I don't know if they changed anything in newer android versions, I'm going based off my old knowledge in the KitKat days. However, this would only get you the apk file, not back up the data associated with the application. I'm not sure why you would need the apk file itself since those can usually be downloaded online directly (verify signature of course first though).

If you want to backup the data associated with an application manually, unless you have a rooted phone I think you're out of luck since due to sandboxing and isolation (which have only gotten stricter in newer android versions) the /data/data subfolder is inaccessible to the user. It seems that the native android backup functionality [1] should back up app data for apps targeting 6.0+ [2] but

>> No. 2322 [Edit]
So, the backup function of the system only supports 25MB? That's almost nothing. Why?
My mother got me an SD card with lots of memory, so I am thinking of formatting it and using it as internal storage. I already transferred all the files from the old SD card to the computer. I am thinking of using the Card for more memory and then investigating just what the hell is up with the "System Data" folder. When I connect my phone with the computer I saw many folders of apps, of course their data wasn't there, those folders were empty but there were folders of things I deleted ages ago. I don't think they should even be there in the first place.
Moreover, the last time I tried to transfer an big app to the SD card, something strange happened. It was copied there, but when I deleted the original the one in the SD card got deleted as well. I redid this with other apps and the same always happens.
>> No. 2323 [Edit]
Native backup is 25MB per app, which honestly seems fine. I find it hard to see scenarios where user-data (n.b. not the apk itself, just the serialized user-data) will exceed 25MB unless you're trying to backup an entire database or something.

As far transferring apps to sd card (which as I understand only transfers the apk and not user-data), I don't think you're supposed to delete the original once the transfer is done. (But it's not clear to me what you mean by "delete" in this case, since apks on internal storage are not visible when connected to the computer).

If you want to store app data on the sd card rather than the app itself, I'm not sure if this possible. If you're rooted you can trivially just move it and symlink it, but if you're not rooted then I think it's only possible if the manufacturer hasn't disabled the newer flex storage feature in 6.0+ [1]

>> No. 2377 [Edit]
File 162880237923.jpg - (80.79KB , 600x720 , ea7643f2d6f379ed00209f29d27e3f82.jpg )
Do you think it's possible to replicate live board features like those here:
without using javascript?
>> No. 2378 [Edit]
Great question. Off the top of my head, here are some possibly mechanisms I can think of for implement real-time updates (which is basically the core issue at hand) without javascript

* Polling, with periodic refresh client-side (perhaps with some judicious use of iframes)
* Hold the connection open and keep streaming content in parts. This can be accomplished various ways: use http chunked encoding (Content-Type: chunked) and basically keep appending content to the page (works well for imageboards), use mjpeg (downside is it's an image), "Content-Type: multipart/x-mixed-replace" (which I've never seen used before so I don't know much about)
>> No. 2379 [Edit]
Interesting. Thanks.
>> No. 2423 [Edit]
Which cheap VPN should I get?
>> No. 2487 [Edit]
File 163682933353.jpg - (227.31KB , 700x684 , 4e9fd62f0aac893b0b10a522256c8451.jpg )
Is there is a simple way to self-host a git repo? I have a little personal website, and I want to store some files in a git repo there.

What I'd like is for visitors to be able to clone a repo via a url, so they can download the whole thing in one go, like they'd usually do for repos on github. It'd also be nice if they could preview the repo on that url.

Hosting a whole instance of a git server, which uses a database and heavy interface, feels like overkill though. I don't really want any complicated features like issue tracking or a wiki, or even write access for anybody besides me. The closest I've come to a solution is using the git daemon, but that's far from satisfactory and I don't think you can reverse proxy a "git://" url.
>> No. 2488 [Edit]
Update: gitea seems to work well enough after figuring out how to configure it.
>> No. 2489 [Edit]
I run a local instance myself, and yeah, it's pretty easy to set up and get going.
>> No. 2490 [Edit]
I think there's the inbuilt "git-http-backend" which you can use in combination with Apache or basically anything that supports CGI scripts in order to just serve a git repo.

If you want to go even more basic, theoretically all you need is just to make the .git folder readable. But I don't know if git clients just support that off the bat or if they need something else. I found which is probably the most lightweight example of how to do this, since it relies only on Apache serving. If you only need to make the git repo read-only instead of allowing writes, then you can probably skip the webdav part but I haven't seen any examples of whether this works.
>> No. 2491 [Edit]
Don't really know what that is or how to use it.

I'm using nginx. On top of that I'm hosting with a window's laptop. So every tutorial is a bit complicated because of that.
>> No. 2492 [Edit]
It should in principle work with nginx as well since this is table-stakes functionality for webservers, but I guess you'd have to figure out the exact config yourself. But yeah since you already got gitea working that's probably a more "production quality" way, my comment was just to show that there are technically (poorly documented) ways to do it with zero dependencies besides the webserver itself.

Post edited on 13th Nov 2021, 9:52pm
>> No. 2505 [Edit]
File 16380327954.png - (375.34KB , 455x599 , guess who hard.png )
So, one of these days I kinda had a rage fit and hammer punched my notebook. Immediately after, the sound became very sloppy. I don't know the exact word, but it's bad, the sound comes out but with some noise together. If I buy speakers and attach them to the notebook will the sound be fixed?
>> No. 2506 [Edit]
Use earbuds.
>> No. 2507 [Edit]
Will speakers not work? I don't like earbuds because they give me tinnitus.
>> No. 2508 [Edit]
Yeah most likely? Unless you damaged the DAC itself (unlikely though) in which case you'd have to use a USB or bluetooth speaker (or hdmi).
>> No. 2510 [Edit]
You should consider yourself lucky that's all that went bad. Sounds like you might have ruptured the speaker cones. Replacing the speakers "should" work, assuming you mean ordering a part, opening the laptop, and replacing the old ones.
Like the other anon mentioned, an alternative could be external speakers. I used to use a USB sound bar that would clip onto the top of my laptop. The audio quality was much better than the laptop speakers.
>> No. 2521 [Edit]
I think I'm going to buy some external speakers soon. Is there anything special I should look out for when buying them? A cursory research showed me the design of speakers has changed, it seems most speakers now are small squares with a circle in the middle. Is this more efficient or something? Because I like the old designs better.
Today I was watching a video on Youtube and the audio suddenly vanished, no sound whatsoever. It's weird because I have not had any rage fits since the aforementioned post, having refrained from such violence thus far.
>> No. 2522 [Edit]
Sounds like that's just an purely visual difference.
>> No. 2530 [Edit]
>Is this more efficient or something
Better aerodynamics compared to the older, more boxy designs.
>> No. 2562 [Edit]
File 164112232965.jpg - (124.13KB , 1200x775 , 662a96a8575cfb4bb4d0f5ced4c1bb9e.jpg )
I'm been messing around in openbox and void linux on a vm. I want to use this theme

I got obconf to work with it, but for the life of me can't figure out how to get lxappearance to. It doesn't recognize the icons and I just don't know what the fuck do and there's no clear information anywhere and I want to rip eye balls out.

It's such an annoying clusterfucker. Gtk is an annoying clusterfuck. ~/.themes? go fuck yourself. There should be a gtk folder where all the god damn themes go, not some miscellaneous shit you have to make yourself in your home directory. Config files and folders all over the place with no standardization is an annoying clusterfuck. Wouldn't be such a problem if the defaults weren't so fucking ugly.
>> No. 2563 [Edit]
okay, there are no icons. my mistake. I'd have to find a universal theme that has stuff for everything. will probably switch to lxqt.
>> No. 2599 [Edit]
File 164538575361.jpg - (663.07KB , 1125x1610 , e2da379f7a07589053555db38597f564.jpg )
What do I need to learn to make a raster image editor?

All of the popular ones seem to be written in C++ of C. Is that necessary? Is a gui framework like qt necessary? Where do I even start? Should I try reverse engineering gimp?
>> No. 2600 [Edit]
You can look at the source for JsPaint, or any of the paint clones. What platform do you want to run it on? You'll probably need some gui framework but you don't need much, you can use something like ImGui which is very lightweight and simple. I'm not too sure if there are any fancy tricks needed to represent the pixel buffer (e.g. doing a text editor actually turns out to be non-trivial since using text arrays quickly runs into issues when you need to make non-linear edits as the cursor jumps around), but my first guess would be to just do a 2D array of pixels which you render on each frame. Pencil tool would be easy to implement here. Implementing line tool properly is actually non-trivial because you have to effectively implement error propagation like dithering. Look at Bresenham's Algorithm for this. Bucket tool is just flood fill.

More challenging is to implement antialiasing and dithering for images.
>> No. 2601 [Edit]
Thanks for the advice.

>What platform do you want to run it on?
>> No. 2602 [Edit]
I think you can still use imgui since it just needs an opengl backend and it provides all the widgets. Won't look very native though, but it's good enough. Otherwise your options are either web-based, or you use something like Qt.
>> No. 2606 [Edit]
File 164581179480.gif - (54.90KB , 640x800 , 7a324f638b62cb88d5458327cdafa9ff.gif )
2606 (a textboard) describes how it stores messages in its technical stack like this
>There's no database, messages are stored as Scheme objects in plain files

Could this be done in any language using JSON, or something like that, instead of "Scheme objects"? Would there be any benefit to this over using a database?
>> No. 2608 [Edit]
Tohno-chan WAF is blocking my post again for unknown reason (maybe the sql keyword?), so I had to rot13 the post to get it to go through. Sorry for the inconvenience:

Rot13'd text below:

Terng dhrfgvba. Lrf gurer'f abguvat gbb fcrpvny nobhg fpurzr urer, rkprcg cbffvoyl gur snpg gung frevnyvmvat n fpurzr bowrpg vagb n svyr vf rnfvre guna fnl frevnyvmvat n Wnin bowrpg. Ohg shaqnzragnyyl gung'f abg n ovt uheqyr fvapr lbh pna nyjnlf qrsvar lbhe bja frevnyvmngvba fpurzn (r.t. hfr n cebgbohs be fbzrguvat).

Zber traenyyl gurer ner 2 glcrf bs jnlf lbh pna unir "cynva-grkg" "qngnonfrf" (qo va dhbgrf fvapr vg'f abg npghnyyl n qo). Gur svefg vf jung'f xabja nf n syng-svyr nccebnpu jurer lbh onfvpnyyl whfg unir n fvatyr svyr jvgu nyy lbhe erpbeqf va vg (guvax bs n pfi svyr, sbe vafgnapr, be zber traenyyl n erpbeqvb-glcr guvat). Guvf jbexf jryy sbe ongpu-ernqf naq ongpu-jevgrf ohg gur qbjafvqr vf gurer'f ab vaqrk fb lbh pna'g ybbxhc neovgenel qngn. Vs nyy lbhe erpbeqf ner gur fnzr fvmr gura V fhccbfr lbh pna sfrrx gb n tvira ebj ahzore, ohg gung'f nobhg vg.

Gur frpbaq nccebnpu vf gb vzcyrzrag n xrl-inyhr fgber jurer lbhe xrl vf n svyr cngu. Guvf vf xvaq bs yvxr na bowrpg fgber, naq vf n cerggl hfrshy cnggrea ba vgf bja jura fpnyrq hc gb qvfgevohgrq flfgrzf (r.t. Nznmba F3), ohg sbe n fvzcyr ybpny hfrpnfr lbh pna whfg hfr gur svyrflfgrz nf gur onpxvat zrqvhz.

Ubjrire ubarfgyl V jbhyq abg obgure jvgu rvgure bs gurfr rira sbe fvzcyr cebgblcrf. Fdyvgr vf n fvatyr svyr vapyhqr, naq tvirf lbh ebohfg cresbeznapr, vaqrkvat, naq vf onfvpnyyl n zvenpyr va n fvatyr vapyhqr. Rira vs lbh qba'g jnag na ragver fdy fpurzn, whfg hfr fdyvgr nf n xrl-inyhr fgber jurer lbhe inyhr vf na neovgenel olgr oybo. Gur ernbfa V fnl guvf vf gung fdyvgr qrif unir gnxra pner bs rafhevat gurl hfr gur cebcre ybj-yriry svyr ncvf pbeerpgyl. R.t. vs lbh ebyy lbhe bja qo hfvat syng-svyrf, jvyy lbh or noyr gb vzcyrzrag ngbzvp genafnpgvbaf? Ner lbhe jevgrf wbheanyyrq gb cerirag ntnvafg pbeehcgvba? (Lbh zvtug guvax gung gur svyrflfgrz "gnxrf pner" bs guvf sbe lbh, ohg gung'f bayl vs lbh erzrzore gb hfr gur cebcre ncvf sbe sflap rgp.) Pna lbhe ubzr-tebja QO unaqyr zhygvcyr ernqref/zhygvcyr jevgrf (irel vzcbegnag sbe n jrofvgr hfvat gur genqvgvbany "fcnja n cebprff cre erdhrfg" cnenqvtz)? Naq vs V erpnyy hfvat fdyvgr jvyy tvir lbh orggre fcnpr-rssvpvrapl ba qvfx nf jryy nf orggre yngrapl naq guebhtuchg guna hfvat gur svyrflfgrz qverpgyl [1]

[1] uggcf://
>> No. 2609 [Edit]
Thanks. For others' convenience
>> No. 2610 [Edit]
>Can your home-grown DB handle multiple readers/multiple writes
Not sure, but I think sqlite handles this by only allowing one write operation to happen at any given time.
>> No. 2611 [Edit]
>Not sure, but I think sqlite handles this by only allowing one write operation to happen at any given time.
Correct, I meant more of the fact that you'd have to implement the locking and synchronization mechanisms yourself.
>> No. 2629 [Edit]
File 164677868257.png - (1.24MB , 868x1228 , blue sky and a glass of.png )
I bought the speakers but they sucked. I tested them and another model at the store. The first pair of speakers was so bad I can't even imagine someone would pay for that shit. The other model being sold sounded better, but the store was very noisy so I couldn't hear as clearly as I wanted. When I got home and plugged them, they worked, but the sound was bad and unsatisfactory. It sounded flat and soulless. I used them for a few minutes, but I disliked them and won't use them again. Could you tell me what is your USB sound bar model? I'm not even an audiophile or anything, it just sounded very flat. The audio I got from the internal speakers before the malfunctions was miles better. I'm using a k45a and the only problem I have ever had with it is this audio thing. I don't have the money or the desire to replace it with a newer model.
>> No. 2648 [Edit]
File 164773723033.jpg - (127.17KB , 480x640 , 13e60461a4e97641ab0dd7c7801d7ea4.jpg )
Bit of an update to this. I'm now trying to get into gui programming, in a general sense. I would like to use golang. On somebody's suggestion, I'm looking into nuklear, a small c library which has go bindings. I've heard this is a "better" approach than qt, cause it's smaller, and qt projects have to mostly revolve around qt itself, which is kind of what happens with large frameworks.

Problem is, the documentation makes no sense to me. This is the first time I'm doing any sort of gui programming, and it's like an alien language. It's totally unapproachable.
>Initializes a nk_context struct with a default standard library allocator.
I don't know what a "standard library allocator" is. I don't even know what an allocator is.
>Heading enumeration from nk/nuklear.h:469
What the hell is "heading enumeration" and why should I care about it? How does anybody get into this? Is it supposed to be mind numbingly difficult?
>> No. 2649 [Edit]
>I don't know what a "standard library allocator" is. I don't even know what an allocator is.
I think standard library allocator refers to whatever malloc you're using. In 99% of cases it's whatever your libc provides but in some special cases it might be jemalloc or tcmalloc. So I think basically all it says is that it does the equivalent of `nk_context * ptr = new nk_context{};`

>"heading enumeration"
I think that that code snippet shows the definition of the "heading" enum?

Blame the go documentation in this case. And using a library via "bindings" always presents an impedance mismatch since in this case it's trying to shoehorn C-isms in a non-C language. You'd be better off just doing it in c++ directly and avoiding the extra layer.
>> No. 2650 [Edit]
I think I need to learn C. So many things are either written in C or depend on things written in C. It appears to be the gateway into "real stuff".

Post edited on 19th Mar 2022, 6:58pm
>> No. 2651 [Edit]
File Effective_C_-_An_introduction_to_professional_C_pr.pdf - (5.89MB , Effective C - An introduction to professional C pr.pdf )

Have at it, tiger.
>> No. 2652 [Edit]
>> No. 2653 [Edit]
You can also try this for simple GUIs:
>> No. 2654 [Edit]
That's a language port of something written in c++(which I also don't know), c and python, and it doesn't have its own documentation. I don't care how simple it may be, I don't want to reverse engineer it.

>> No. 2655 [Edit]
Somebody sent these requests to my server. What do they mean? Have I been compromised?
>> No. 2656 [Edit]
It's just skids probing the whole internet with their pentesting tools. Happens to everyone.
>> No. 2657 [Edit]
Someone ran an automated web scanner on your site that makes use of nmap. Don't see anything concerning there.
>> No. 2658 [Edit]
I don't now shit about cyber security, so for all I know there is some vulnerability. The server runs on WSL, and nginx. There's one POST form on the site.
>> No. 2700 [Edit]
File 165238223523.jpg - (95.11KB , 836x1024 , ancient.jpg )
Anybody knows a software that's like excel but great? Especially one where I can remove any extra non used columns and lines, and use colours.
>> No. 2701 [Edit]
Maybe I don't understand exactly what you want to do but you can hide or remove columns and lines and have different colors for both and text on Excel. Anyway I use OpenOffice, it does those things too.
>> No. 2702 [Edit]
>but you can hide or remove columns and lines and have different colors for both and text
>> No. 2724 [Edit]
I want to use the sheets to record words with meanings and sources for new languages.
>> No. 2725 [Edit]
I think both Excel and Libre Office can do that. It has been a long time since I used either, but I think you can change the amount colums/rows by right clicking on the margin. To change the colors, you need to select the whole colum/row and just change the color.
>> No. 2767 [Edit]
File 165436265666.jpg - (283.16KB , 1692x2048 , __original_drawn_by_1ssakawaguchi__9deec5ecbfd58a5.jpg )
I want to know how exactly a site can get banned from being accessed inside an institution. If it's a university do they implement some kind of pre-set database of "indecent" websites? As if from a compiled database they just copy pasted. Or do they have to add every site manually when they want to ban? I'm asking this because I loved browsing TC during university, with the endless lectures and all that. Now yesterday I tried accessing the website and got a 403 error, this site cannot be accessed "reason pornography". I know I can the onion network to get away with this i guess, but do you think someone noticed traffic from tohno-chan, decided to check it out and thought it was a porn site? Or just some automatic update on the databases they have.
>> No. 2768 [Edit]
There are companies which sell pre-maintained filter sets. But institutions can also try building them themselves. When on an untrusted network, always use a VPN - unless you're not afraid of being tracked. Remember - tohno-chan does not use HTTPS, so anything you upload and download can be seen by the network's administrators.
>> No. 2769 [Edit]
I see. I only download or upload files in my home. In this case you think they noticed "abnormal" traffic and tagged it as porn? I think TC is too unknown to get included in some set like that.
>> No. 2770 [Edit]
Any unencrypted connection can be scanned automatically. I remember school filters in the mid-00s looking for words like "sex" and "porn" in the HTML cleartext.
I've also seen people's personal websites get included in such sets, and TC is certainly bigger than those.
>> No. 2771 [Edit]
>I want to know how exactly a site can get banned from being accessed inside an institution
If you mean how it's technically possible, then it ranges from very easy (e.g. site connecting over plain HTTP whose packets are trivially inspectable) all the way to nation-state level cutting-edge techniques (basically whatever the great firewall does). Do note that since encryption isn't itself unbreakable (well not yet, hopefully) if done right, the latter usually trades off specificity for false-positives. E.g. they don't care that they're going to block innocent traffic, they just block anything that they can't inspect (e.g. ESNI connections) and scrutinize anything going to external ASs heavily.
>> No. 2801 [Edit]
This might be a stupid question, but how exactly do websites work? Are pages just files being shared, be it a static .html file or generated with software for something like an imageboard? Are urls just the file you request, for example this thread is "165.html" in the folder res, which is in the folder navi, hosted on the tohno-chan server? How does the domain name connect to the server's ip to request the file?
>> No. 2802 [Edit]
You might be interested in reading through

At a high level, yes basically you make an HTTP GET request to TC's server, server responds back with html (which can either be fetched from a static file, or dynamically generated on the server. The client really doesn't care which, as far as it's concerned, it's just html being sent on the wire. The URL path itself can really be anything, that's up to the server to interpret. The fact that there's a "165.html" in the URL is only relevant to the server, and it doesn't necessarily have to serve a static file at that path, it can do whatever it wants. There are some established conventions, however, such as passing query parameters via urlencoded "?", and mapping paths inthe URL onto some logical notion of "path". But this is all convention, you can break it if you want.

Domain name is translated to server IP via a DNS lookup.
>> No. 2803 [Edit]
>Are pages just files being shared
Yes, all resources including the pages themselves are sent to you as files. Pages are of the type text/html.
>generated with software
That can differ. Most static websites just have html files sitting on the server, while others generate pages based on user requests. Pages can be constructed and sent, without being saved on the host server. You get a file though.
>Are urls just the file you request
Not necessarily. The server can interpret urls in a number of different ways. With static files though, like images, generally yes.
>How does the domain name connect to the server's ip
Your computer is connected to a centralized DNS service, which is connected to domain registrars. It's based on these groups sharing information with each other and then sharing it with you.

Post edited on 14th Jun 2022, 11:55am
>> No. 2804 [Edit]
This seems pretty interesting. I don't understand a good portion of the language however. I'll take my time to read through it and look up the terms I don't understand later.
I don't have an aptitude with computers, but it feels like it's pretty important to learn. Right now I have to rely on others, but I'd like to become capable of doing things myself and having an understanding of what it is that I am doing.
>> No. 2805 [Edit]
> I don't understand a good portion of the language however.
That's ok, the content in there covers a really broad range of topics across various layers. I doubt for instance that even most people who do programming (unless they're into mechanical keyboards) know the details of your keyboard diode matrix works, how it debounces keys, how it sends an HID report, etc. The rest of the topics there span the range from thnigs you might see in a networking course, to OS internals, to parsers, and so on. And there's still a lot of things they don't even cover in there, such as how the packet send from your computer gets routed to its destination, what happens at the interface between the network card and your userspace program, etc.

It would be surprising if even someone who worked with software all their life knew about all the topics there. As you beign exploring things, you'll eventually be able to understand more and more.
>> No. 2815 [Edit]
Did anyone else see that brief thread about some search engine anon made (it was post >>2814 before it got deleted). The secrecy ("do not expect me to advertise this a second time") makes me think that the glowies were behind it, but the screenshot (if representative of the website) did seem to indicate that it was basically something like shodan except tailored to actually finding content instead of being infosec-focused. (I.e. crawl the ipv4 space, build a posting index).

A few questions if that anon is still here:
* Why the secrecy if you're not working for the glowies.
* Do you only index the root page, or do you also crawl subpages? If only the former, it seems not too useful since root pages rarely have useful content.
* Do you implement any query syntax (i.e. negation)?
>> No. 2816 [Edit]
Yeah, I saw it. They posted it a lot of places. I'm sure if you look around some other sites you'll find it.
>> No. 2846 [Edit]
I bought speakers but my notebook wont recognize them. What to do?
>> No. 2847 [Edit]
Maybe you're missing a driver. Look up if the speaker manufacturer provides drivers.
>> No. 2848 [Edit]
I don't think you ever need driver for speakers. Certainly not for ones that plug in via 3.5mm jack , and bluetooth ones should use a standard audio profile (e.g. sbc).

Also OP never mentioned which OS. If it's windows or osx then I again doubt it's a driver issue. If it's linux then I have no idea since I've had issues getting a simple microphone to work there so who knows.
>> No. 2849 [Edit]
Its windows. It seems there arent any sound drivers in need of updates. Its a usb+audio jack speaker. The light on the speaker turn on when I connect it, but the computer doesnt recognize it.
>> No. 2851 [Edit]
I've gotten my hands on two old (originally Windows Vista) systems, one seems to work fine, but the other won't turn on. Motherboard seems to be receiving power, as it and the power button are lit up. I fiddled with the power button a bit, and it seems fine. Nothing else seems wrong. Worst case I pull the motherboard and upgrade it with the extra I got alongside it, but I'd like to see it as it is now.
I'm hardly an expert, so does TC have any ideas? I'll take pictures if need be.
>> No. 2852 [Edit]
Might need to get a voltmeter and trace things. Given that it's old it's probably some capacitor that needs replacing. If you take it to a local repair shop they should be able to find the issue and fix it pretty easily.
>> No. 2853 [Edit]
Did you check the cmos battery?
>> No. 2854 [Edit]
File 166217884477.png - (86.95KB , 244x235 , 1659997157106650.png )
I managed to turn it on. I didn't really do anything since writing that post beyond closing the case. It was about what was described. "Upgraded" to Win 10...
Anyway, the issue does seem to be with the power button. You have to press it stupidly hard, or maybe it's just finicky.
Anyway, I look forward to getting rid of Windows 10 and having a disc drive again.
>> No. 2855 [Edit]
May I ask why you're trying to salvage these devices?
>> No. 2856 [Edit]
Mostly to learn and play with. I have no serious purposes in mind and no expectations with 15 or so year old hardware.
>> No. 2857 [Edit]
iirc it would boot even without a cmos battery, the battery is only for persistence of bios settings
>> No. 2858 [Edit]
I recently dusted off my PC after keeping it in storage for about two years (long story), and when I did I found it wouldn't boot. I was recommended the battery and upon doing so found it would try to boot then shut itself off soon after, which itself turned out to be a bad memory issue on top of the battery.
I also came into possession of a laptop that wouldn't shut off because of the cmos battery. So I feel like it can effect more than just some settings.

Also also, this sounds similar to the issue at hand. A different laptop that I spilled some liquid on would not boot if the keyboard was left connected. It's strange, but I found that I had to connect the keyboard (because the power button was on it) and as soon as I hit that button would need to disconnect the keyboard, or it wouldn't boot.

Just tossing out some past experiences in hopes anything helps.
>> No. 2860 [Edit]
Any suggestions on cutting sheet metal? I don't really have many tools at my disposal for the moment. I don't need a nice job, just needs done.
My new motherboard doesn't fit my computer case, so I figured I'd just go at it with dykes until things fit okay. I'm not sure where they are, so I'll take this chance to ask for advice.
>> No. 2861 [Edit]
You might want to go to a wood shop and use their tools. Though, in my opinion, it's not worth the risk to your physical intactness.

Post edited on 13th Sep 2022, 1:12pm
>> No. 2862 [Edit]
At the very least wearing gloves and goggles seems prudent to avoid metal shards. I don't know if using dykes would even work though considering they're meant for cutting thin wire.
>> No. 2863 [Edit]
They work. It isn't pretty, but the job is getting done.
>> No. 2898 [Edit]
Not sure where to post this, but my favourite IRC client(Clicks and Whistles) just died on me. Every time I open this goddam thing the window appears on the taskbar, but nothing happens. Do you have any suggestions of other clients you use yourselves or how to solve this?
>> No. 2899 [Edit]
I use hexchat, as do most other people I think.
>> No. 2900 [Edit]
There's a problem I'm having with IRC. I thought it was because of the client I was using but I'm using Hexchat and it's happening again. I enter IRC, then chose my name, use /nick, then join rizon, and then joing the channel, then I use nickServ IDENTIFY but even thought the system recognizes me, just a few min later it says this name is protected and changes me to another name. This name I'm trying to use I registered and even got the email with it.
>> No. 2901 [Edit]
OK TC, I have a real mindboggler for you. When I start my PC, it has a "Diskette drive 0 seek failure". My understanding is that it looks for a floppy disc to boot the OS off of. I went into the BIOS to change the order of devices it boots up with, HDD first. Didn't fix it and I was certain to save and even tried a second time.
It isn't a huge deal, but it is kind of annoying not to have things boot up smoothly.
>> No. 2902 [Edit]
can you disable booting from that drive all together?
>> No. 2904 [Edit]
I didn't know I'd even need to do something like that but yes, it worked.
Before I just looked into the boot order, but I suppose diskette drives are king...
>> No. 2905 [Edit]
Awesome, glad to hear that solved it.
>> No. 2906 [Edit]
like others mentioned I like hexchat too. Gives a nice amount of customization.
>> No. 2918 [Edit]
I've been playing around with multiple computers for a bit now, and it's pretty nice to have machines dedicated to certain things. I just feel that I'm not taking full advantage of this set up.
What practical things can you do with multiple machines other than making a home media server?
>> No. 2919 [Edit]
Unless you're into data processing or scientific computing, probably not too much. If you are interested in the former you can install spark and have a mini cluster, but it's overkill for anything you'd need to reasonably process. Same for scientific computing, you could probably use Ray or something to parallelize execution, but it's overkill for whatever the average hobbyist would do. With multiple computers you should have a NAS-type setup so you can move data between them easily though.
>> No. 2920 [Edit]
>With multiple computers you should have a NAS-type setup so you can move data between them easily though.
I would like to do something like that, but when I read up on any sort of local networking, I can't understand anything that is written. I tried setting something up with my PS2 in the past several times, but couldn't figure out what the hell I was doing.

All in all, I guess the main benefit to having several computers for me is being able to do impractical things without much concern.
>> No. 2921 [Edit]
The concept is simple, just have one computer share the attached hard drive via NFS or SMB so that it can be connected to by other computers. Windows might even have built in software to do this, I'm not sure.

Other than that, if you have multiple machines you could play around with paxos or other distributed protocols, maybe also try out that kubernetes hotness everyone is talking about. But I don't know if there's anything useful or practical you can do.
>> No. 2938 [Edit]
Just wondering if anyone here could recommend drive cloning software(for windows).
Just trying to upgrade to a larger drive and don't want to have to reinstall everything. Last time I did this was years ago and I think I used oracle or something, but not sure if that's still the best thing to use now.
>> No. 2939 [Edit]
I think clonezilla is basically the gold standard?
>> No. 2945 [Edit]
File 166555119725.jpg - (703.29KB , 1240x1754 , __kochiya_sanae_moriya_suwako_yasaka_kanako_and_hi.jpg )
My laptop is so shitty. Half the time I can't even open the start menu on my desktop and most programs struggle to start. It takes forever just for it to shut off normally.
What the hell gives? I hate this turd even if it is technically superior to my desktop computers. Now, I hate Windows 10 with a passion, but surely it can't be so shitty after all this time. Even if I hate them, I really want to believe that modern operating systems do more good than harm and that my laptop is just worn out after nearly a decade.
>> No. 2946 [Edit]
Decade old processors can still be perfectly fine, but if you haven't already swapping the hdd to an sdd will make a huge difference. I think most "modern" operating systems basically assume they're running on an ssd and so will read/write data willy-nilly and developers don't even bother optimizing for IO anymore.
>> No. 2947 [Edit]
Maybe. The odd thing is, it seems to be held back by the CPU if anything looking at task manager. Not to say the HDD is good, but it seems to not be the bottleneck.
Either way, I might just stick Windows 7 on the laptop and call it a day. I don't care about it enough enough to upgrade it or replace parts. I'd rather build a decent desktop as I don't go anywhere to warrant a laptop.
>> No. 2981 [Edit]
Why is it so complicated?
>Neovim doesn’t have the concept of a workspace or project folder. But language servers often operate with the notation of projects.
I don't operate with the notion of "projects" in the made up, ide sense of the word. What the fuck? I just want to open the file and have it do the thing, without any nodeJS bullshit like coc requires. And why is everything in lua now? I don't like or have any interest in lua.
>> No. 2982 [Edit]
Then don't use LSP? The restriction makes sense to me. Let's assume you're trying to do e.g. autocomplete for a given file. You need to know which files are related to that file, and the only way to do that is either heuristics (maybe you're in a git repo) or having some sort of explicit project structure (this might already be imposed by the build system, e.g. cmakelists).
>> No. 2983 [Edit]
I would be fine with auto-complete for the standard library only.
>> No. 3001 [Edit]
I bought an SSD and RAM upgrade for my laptop. I don't know how I should go about cloning my HDD. Alternatively I might just get a fresh Windows 10 LTSC install as it's my understanding that it has less nonsense.
Any suggestions?
>> No. 3002 [Edit]
>> No. 3006 [Edit]
Thank you.
>> No. 3007 [Edit]
Completely unrelated, but it seems quote backlinks are broken on this thread only because the first few posts in the thread link to /mt/ board, which seems to break the backlink script. I though kusaba regenerated the entire thread on every new post, not sure I understand why the first few posts post number quotes end up linking to /mt/.
>> No. 3008 [Edit]
Oh also be aware that by default (in beginner mode) Clonezilla will do a 1:1 copy, so if you are copying a 500GB partition to a new 1TB disk, the new partition will also be 500GB. Afterwards you should go and expand the partition size (which I think you can do in windows). [Honestly it's kind of surprising that windows has a built-in tool for shrinking/expanding partitions, but not for copying.]
>> No. 3009 [Edit]
Yes, I saw that when I was reading up on the process. Thanks for the heads up anyway.
>> No. 3035 [Edit]
My computer likes to crash when starting a program in full screen. It's pretty annoying and I'm not certain why it happens. My guess is that it has something to do with the GPU drivers. They are up to date, but I'm not certain I really want them to be current while using Windows XP. Maybe that's a stupid idea, I wouldn't know. Another thought is that the PSU might be inadequate with the upgrades the machine has received. It is labeled at 250W.
It's not a consistent thing and happens with anything when going into full screen mode occasionally.
>> No. 3036 [Edit]
>Windows XP
There's your problem.
>> No. 3037 [Edit]
Why not run windows 7 and then run windows xp in a vm? Windows graphics stack changed quite a bit from xp to windows 7 (aero compositing, direct2d, etc.)
>> No. 3041 [Edit]
>Why not run windows 7 and then run windows xp in a vm?
For fun, mostly.
>> No. 3131 [Edit]
File 167570953461.png - (37.95KB , 415x269 , cute rance ii.png )
I bought a hdd case for an old hdd i had, so i could use it for storing some files. But i now see i choose the wrong size. My hdd case is for 2.5 inches and my hdd is a big bigger 3,5 inches i think. Is there some workaround?
>> No. 3132 [Edit]
Hmm. I'm going to try accessing Tohno from my college network at some point. I only connect over a VPN anyway, but I'm curious to see what happens!
>> No. 3133 [Edit]
My university has no such thing. Most students live on campus, so they're not going to take their access to porn away. A few sites are blocked, but seemingly for reasons outside of pornography.

Post edited on 6th Feb 2023, 1:57pm
>> No. 3135 [Edit]
My computer moves the icons on the desktop when it starts. What's with that? Could it be related to the no-good CMOS battery?
>> No. 3136 [Edit]
No, that's not why, assuming you're using windows 10:
Right-click the desktop
Select Personalize.
Select Themes and scroll down and select Desktop icon settings.
Near the bottom left of the Desktop Icon Settings dialog, uncheck Allow themes to change desktop icons. Click Apply and OK to exit.
>> No. 3137 [Edit]
Seems like it's a cool Windows feature nobody asked for. Very cool!
In Windows 10 you can change it by going to Settings > Themes > Desktop Icon Settings and uncheck the "Allow themes to change icons" checkbox.
Though you probably should replace that CMOS battery, those things leak when they turn garbage.
>> No. 3140 [Edit]
There's a crackling noise coming from the PSU and I'm thinking of getting a replacement, but I keep worrying that it's really just some sort of "coil whine" or other dumb noise that neither will nor needs to be resolved by replacing the unit; I just spent a bunch of money on a new desk and monitor, and the daunting task of actually switching out a PSU with all that wiring isn't appealing to me though I'd obviously prefer it to having my machine go POP one day.
Does coil whine ever sound like crackling at all?
>> No. 3141 [Edit]
SMPS noise is usually high-ish pitch and constant.
>> No. 3144 [Edit]
This noise distinctively sounds like faint crackling and isn't constant at all; it only becomes audible whenever the GPU is under stress, which is why part of me worries that it's somehow related to me having messed up when installing said GPU a few months back since I don't think I ever heard it before then. I'm almost certain the PSU has got to go, but the idea of that noise still being there after switching won't go away and really messes with me so I keep trying to make sure it's not a mistake before going through with placing an order.
>> No. 3145 [Edit]
What wattage is your PSU, how old is it, and what graphics card did you install? What graphics card did you have before?
>> No. 3146 [Edit]
Post recording? When under stress the GPU has greater power draw and the fans would kick in. It could be the fans causing the noise. Can you try manually running the fans?
>> No. 3147 [Edit]
I got the PC custom built and shipped to me about a decade ago; it has a Corsair HX850 at 850w and the old GTX 780 was replaced with an RTX 3060. I also got a new set of RAM sticks (removed the old ones) at the same time as the GPU.

This is what it sounds like, though it's constant while triggered; the brief pause at the start of the recording is after leaving the loading screen and before pushing the pause button in one of the games triggering the noise.
>> No. 3148 [Edit]
..and the volume increase near the end is just me moving the phone closer to the PSU exhaust for better sound.
>> No. 3149 [Edit]
Yeah doesn't sound like coil whine or SMPS noise to me. It sounds either like some arcing or something scraping against something else. I don't have any experience with pc building though, this is just my interpretation from general electronics knowledge. Maybe someone else can chime in.
>> No. 3150 [Edit]
I tried launching an old game I remembered provoking typical coil whine: the noise still came from the PSU, which was a relief, but it's clearly distinct from the more crackling kind of noise Shogun 2 among others will cause.
I really, really don't want to replace the PSU unless I have to, but I absolutely don't want to lose the whole system either; assuming it really is the PSU getting worn, would I be an idiot to keep using it until I encounter actual problems regarding functionality? So far it really is just me freaking out about a weird noise nobody seems able to pinpoint, after all..
>> No. 3152 [Edit]
I want to build my first PC. I watched all 3 parts of the newegg series on how to build a PC, but they're pretty outdated. I just want something that can render videos and animations well in adobe premiere and can play some games like Insurgency. Can I get some pointers?
>> No. 3153 [Edit]
Easiest way is to just look up what other people have done (there's a site somewhere of combinations people have tested to work fine, with links to buy), and just do that. I think the actual assembly is quite literally plugging things into each other, everything is socketed so no soldering required at all. If you care mostly about rendering just get a graphics card with NVENC support (unless you are absolutely picky about having the best possible output in which case you're limited to cpu encoding and will need to get a beefy cpu).

*Disclaimer I have never built a pc and all my knowledge is theoretical.
>> No. 3156 [Edit]
Theoretically, would it be possible to swap a work computer's processor with one of my own?

I'm trying to upgrade from a I7 7700 to a 10700 from a computer at my job and wanted to know if maybe a network admin or someone would notice. The computers here are typically only running two or three programs barely using 10% of the CPU at any given time. The 7700 is from a 6-year-old laptop motherboard and the 10700 is a desktop. The computer in question is in a half decent blindspot and so are several others.

Again, just theoretically, would this work?
>> No. 3157 [Edit]
You might need to install/uninstall some driver software for the CPU. Depending on how strict your organization policy is, that might require admin permission. Do you normally need admin permission to install programs?
>> No. 3158 [Edit]
If the computer is in an AD domain and protected by something like BitLocker, swapping the CPU might invalidate the keys in the TPM, which you might have to ask your network admin for (I've seen field service in some companies just giving them away if you ask nicely, especially since they sometimes spontaneously invalidate after BIOS updates or whatever, but it might raise some suspicion). I don't know whether a network admin could be actively notified of hardware changes like this, though.
>> No. 3159 [Edit]
Yeah, a while ago I tried installing some miner software and a few other programs, but everything asks for admin permission. Workaround for this?

There's a young I.T guy that comes around every now and again that I'm friends with. He does all the BIOS updates from what I can tell. Maybe he has the keys you're talking about? I also thought that maybe I could just play dumb and say my computer isn't working and have them install the driver's you're talking about.
>> No. 3160 [Edit]
They aren't even the same socket, so no
>> No. 3173 [Edit]
This report is so unintelligible that it borders on a shitpost. Anyway, I haven't used Windows for years but you should be able to uninstall updates.
>> No. 3174 [Edit]
File 167899379333.jpg - (277.22KB , 1792x828 , riko com vestido.jpg )
I agree, I apologize. I was having a rage fit and couldn't type anything that remotely resemble an actual thought. This week I've been having uncountable such fits. I actually broke my favourite milk mug during one of these. I had that mug since I was little kid. I did not meant to post such an unseemly post. I have deleted it and after calming myself down and refusing to hit any expensive piece of technology, I have came up with a solution. Please forget I've ever posted that.
>> No. 3190 [Edit]
File 16822227553.jpg - (154.36KB , 801x1053 , 1.jpg )
Bit of a long shot, but thought I might as well ask.
For a while I've had this issue with "micro stuttering" in games, only I think it's more than that. sometimes FPS drops into the 40s. When I first started to really notice this I thought it was the higher end game I was trying to play (RDR2), so I went and got a better GPU. I found it was still doing it. I read the game was poorly ported, so I assumed it was possibly just that. I was also forced to limit my power usage, as it was setting off my backup battery. I was also running it on an HDD.

I've been playing HL2 lately, off an SSD. A game that by all means should run on max settings flawlessly even with cheap old junk hardware. Yet it runs about as smooth as sandpaper.
The image included was taken as I left Half Life 2 running. I touched nothing and nothing was moving on screen, it was just a static frame. FPS generally stayed around 56-60, but would drop to 45fps almost regularly.
Some of my hardware is a little on the older side now, but even then a game this old should run fine shouldn't it?

My PC specs i7-4790k @4.00gz, 24gb DDR3 overclocked ram, HX-750i. asrock z97 extreme3, RTX-3080. on Win10 LTSC.

So far I've tried updating graphic drivers (with a clean removal of the old ones), Disabling microsoft's gamebar and game mode, and blocking almost everything that starts with my pc then running the game with nothing in the background. I've also tried disabling v-sync in game and applying it via the nvidya control panel, and vice versa.
I considered getting a monitor with g-sync, but because of those 40fps dips I'm not sure if that would even help.
Or is my rig maybe just too old and janky?
>> No. 3191 [Edit]
Not a gamer but those specs should handle Half-Life 2 easily (it runs smooth even on integrated graphics of my laptop, albeit not without getting toasty). Not sure how to interpret that graph or what the scale is, the GPU temperature looks a bit odd, it seems like it should steady state yet I see fluctations. Try manually cranking fan speed to max and seeing if it delays the onset of the issue? I'm not familiar with windows system debugging tools, I think Russinovich's tools (Sysinternals et al.) are the gold standard there.

G-sync will technically help in making the stutter less noticeable, but it doesn't solve the root issue. You shouldn't be limited by IO, CPU, or GPU based on those specs.
>> No. 3192 [Edit]
Yeah the graph is a bit weird. The text for each readout is just above it.
FPS is the top one. GPU usage is bellow that, and temp is pretty consistent at 40
>> No. 3193 [Edit]
File 168222540869.jpg - (122.94KB , 581x1037 , 2.jpg )
This is what it looks like during gameplay. I should also point out that I've seen this kinda thing in the past outside of games too for years. Like while watching anime, scenes where the frame pans over a shot would be very jerky. I guess I kinda just learned to live with it.
>> No. 3194 [Edit]
Oh I was reading the graph wrong, it's the usage that seems to dip about when the fps dips, the temp is nice and constant (this is much more noticeable on the first graph you posted).

The GPU Usage dip would seem to indicate a CPU-side issue to me, for some reason the cpu occasionally isn't issuing enough to keep the GPU busy, leading to the FPS dip.

Edit: Although I don't know the units of time on x-axis. If that was with vsync on and the sampling period is about 1/120 seconds, then it might just be an artifact of vsync blocking the game loop.

Post edited on 22nd Apr 2023, 10:41pm
>> No. 3195 [Edit]
File 16823095835.jpg - (99.97KB , 507x1031 , 1.jpg )
I guess I kinda figured it out. The solution wasn't mention or even hinted at anywhere I looked online.

I found that by switching to my second monitor and setting it as a primary, it ran perfectly. So I started messing with settings on my main monitor. I actually have three 'monitors' connected to my system. Two normal pc monitors and a TV.
Apparently it's because I had monitor 2 and 3(the TV) set to duplicate. So anything on monitor 2 would be shown on the TV. I don't know why, but once I set it to extend desktop, the issue was resolved. Changing it back, replicated the same issue. Needless to say, I won't be using the duplicate setting anymore.
>> No. 3196 [Edit]
That makes sense, trying to vsync across different monitors will create issues.
>> No. 3202 [Edit]
I don't know what to do anymore and I'm losing my mind. Every single fucking time I reboot my pc the audio from the speakers stops working. It's something driver related. Initially I used to just run troubleshooting but then that stopped working and I had to manually unistall and reinstall the audio drivers. I don't remember what I did and how i did it. I am also fucking tired of having to do this shit every fucking time. Is there any solution? Windows 10 pc.
>> No. 3205 [Edit]
Whenever I can't wrap my head around a problem, I just do a clean windows install. Backing up my User folder on an USB drive takes like 10 minutes
>> No. 3243 [Edit]
File 169111301310.jpg - (584.40KB , 904x1500 , F2nfDkJb0AA4b9Q.jpg )
I need help decompiling an android game. I'm trying to figure some stuff about the inner workings of the game, I'm no programmer but I had a few classes and hope I will be able to understand the code. What's be most beginner friendly way to go through this? I tried apktool but I only got the cli version to work, and for some reason JADX says cant make virtual machine fatal exception every time i try running the bat. What's causing this?
>> No. 3244 [Edit]
apktool/baksmali only gets you to dalvik bytecode format, which is going to be a pain to reverse. You're probably better of decompiling to java directly, but as you noted the free decompilers are kind of poor. If jadx didn't work and you've tried tweaking things, you can try the older dex2jar + fernflower, but iirc dex2jar doesn't support newer dex versions (anything past the move to art?)
>> No. 3245 [Edit]
Oh wait I misread, it's not that the decompilation failed, seems like you can't even open jadx. Seems like a windows problem to me.
>> No. 3249 [Edit]
Do you have any ideas for solving it?
>> No. 3250 [Edit]
Double check your java installation, use linux if needed.
>> No. 3251 [Edit]
On their github it says that any version from 8 onwards will do, but it also says make sure you have java 11 or newer installed. I suppose they forgot to update the first comment. I am running java 1.8.0_121
>> No. 3252 [Edit]
File 169136015094.png - (22.71KB , 400x400 , media_BjFutwXCIAArx7q.png )
I can run it with Java 8 just fine it'd seem, but I'm on 1.8.0_372 (OpenJDK, Temurin build); 1.8.0_121 seems to be from about January 2017(?), so it's not unlikely something has changed in the meantime.
>> No. 3270 [Edit]
File 169617514742.jpg - (718.68KB , 1480x1200 , 3639bf1d396d740ed63fa8ec816c4782.jpg )
I want to self-host an imageboard, but I'm not sure what hardware would be best. Something cheap, reliable and fast(for what I'm doing) would be ideal. As far as I can tell, I have 3 options.

1. A sbc, like the "le potato" + a micro sd card + accessories
This option is the cheapest at slightly below $100, but it's the least powerful, and not so much cheaper than the other options. From what I understand, any mico sd card will be slower and less reliable than an ssd.

2. A mini PC with a mobile CPU, like beelink's. This is somewhat below $200. I'll get way more ram and storage, and a faster CPU than option 1.

3. A refurbished "mini desktop", like an hp elitedesk. This is slightly above $100. It's used though, so that's a bit of a gamble. Even though the cpu is like 8 years old now, it's still more powerful than the new mobile cpus you'll find in a cheap beelink. That's frustrating.

So yeah, what do?
>> No. 3281 [Edit]
If you have an old smartphone you're not using anymore but that still works, you could throw Termux on it and just use that until you have some more spare money. I don't know how secure that would be, but the handful of posts per day that you can expect from a fledgling image board shouldn't be a problem for any phone from the last 5 years or so, unless the software is very poorly programmed and uses too much RAM.

Which imageboard software are you going to use, btw?
>> No. 3282 [Edit]
File 169888455429.png - (156.55KB , 400x400 , clip+(2023-11-01+at+08_47_12).png )
My imageboard is actually online right now. I blog posted about the whole process in bits and pieces.

The smart phone I'm using now is the only one I've ever had, but thanks for thesuggestion. Briefly considered using an old iPad, but there's were some show-stoppers with that.
>> No. 3283 [Edit]
File 169912334470.jpg - (2.17MB , 3704x2658 , 537c369afcd56daaf53f7044c581bb39.jpg )
Last night, my computer abruptly started having DHCP issues while using a wired connection(moca); over wi-fi everything is fine. Decided to wait until the next day to see if it fixes itself. It didn't, so I restarted my router and reset winsock and ip and all that on my computer. That allowed me to have an ip6 addresses, but for some reason I couldn't get an ip4 addresses. I tried every thing I could find in guides and even asked chat-gpt. Eventually, I gave up and set my ip4 address, gateway, subnetmask prefix length, etc. manually.

Post edited on 4th Nov 2023, 2:13pm
>> No. 3284 [Edit]
It randomly started working again today sometime after I tried turning my router's moca support off and on again.
>> No. 3298 [Edit]
File 170210273853.jpg - (504.14KB , 1024x768 , ef81da61eb82d7d0495ac23e61c54475.jpg )
New to PCs. I have an ITX motherboard with ALC4080 HD Audio. The back of it has an M.2 slot, so I got to thinking I could buy an M.2 to PCIE cable, and put a soundcard on that. Problem is I have no idea whether that would improve anything.

I use mid-tier iems(Aria) and was thinking about the Sound Blaster Audigy RX. Advice on this would be much appreciated.

Post edited on 8th Dec 2023, 10:19pm
>> No. 3299 [Edit]
not a pc builder person, but aren't these both just DACs? Seems like you'd be better off using that money to buy a better speaker instead, since I highly doubt you're going to notice any difference between the two.
>> No. 3300 [Edit]
>aren't these both just DACs
I guess? I'm not really sure. Feature-wise, I think they're distinct from products marketed as a DAC. They're also inside of your computer, which I prefer.
>buy a better speaker
By speaker, do you mean audio listening devices in general? Sure I could do that, but I'd like to know all my options for improving things.
>> No. 3301 [Edit]
As I understand it essentially is a DAC though, just built into the pc. When you plug in a headphone into your headphone jack, something needs to convert your digital PCM signal into an analogue waveform and supply voltage to drive the speakers, and that is the soundcard. I'm sure people will be eager to sell you soundcards claiming it'll improve audio quality or whatever, but I have not yet seen a compelling argument as to why it would be beneficial; and until I do I'll lump it in the audiophile snake oil category.

Pretty much the only argument I can see for a fancy sound card is if you have some special speaker setup (high impedance, or need surround sound). Maybe there's some argument to be made about fancier soundcards having better EMF shielding or something, but I'm skeptical of that unless it can be shown quantitatively .

>do you mean audio listening devices in general
Well whatever you're going to plug into your computer to listen to the audio. And if you're using headphones supposedly most of the audiophiles use an external DAC anyway as opposed to an internal way (this does have some benefit in that it's portable so you can use the same setup with your phone/laptop/whatever).
>> No. 3302 [Edit]
File 170211319841.png - (119.10KB , 1428x624 , it matters.png )
This guy seems pretty convinced. I know different sound cards can differ in fidelity at least.

edit: Looking at more reviews from all over, I'm starting to have doubts.
>The main value of this card is that between the e-mu chip and the alchemy drivers you can still get hardware 3D audio on modern systems. Testing only "does it sound good" is something you would worry about in the 90's. Today almost all consumer audio hardware is more or less perfect in that regard. This is a retro gaming card.

>The 106db is one of the least important things about the card, yes it does have some importance (in this case, is means that the older 106db is going to usually sound a tad bit more warm/nice/fussy which is good when dealing with PC sound. But I have heard newer onboard sound with a much better DB, that sounded a lot worse!
>What happens with sound is that, when you clean it up so much be removing distortion, and still have bad/weak/small onboard parts, it just sounds like plastic, and that is okay as long as you play games and mostly only deal with sound effects, but for REAL music, you notice that it does not quite have that little bit of magic that draws you in.

Post edited on 9th Dec 2023, 1:37am
>> No. 3303 [Edit]
>This guy seems pretty convinced.
That guy seems to not know what he is talking about, because unless I'm completely out of the water then mentioning HDMI is a non-sequitur. If you're outputting HDMI, you're transferring digital audio and hence bypassing the sound card entirely. Well I suppose a soundcard could offer a dedicated hdmi jack or whatever, but the quality of the soundcard won't matter, it's just transferring digital data.

And I have not seen any technical argument from him as to why an EMU10K1 DSP is superior to whatever bargain bin chinesium probably comes built in by default. As I understand DACs are basically a solved problem; the signal processing theory behind them is well understood [1], so there really can't be much different between them besides maybe tweaks in the FIR parameters used.

Also looking at Amazon reviews is the worst way to buy something. At least look at the hydrogenaudio forums.

>> No. 3304 [Edit]
File 170251894966.jpg - (79.43KB , 950x462 , c17b7e7203a22d11cea2e7fe263d35d1.jpg )
I asked on an audiophile forum and got a somewhat in depth answer.

The main thing being
>Benefits of PCIe sound card over USB audio devices
>Lower latency : It contributes competitive gaming, lower sound latency means more wins. Sound monitoring feedback for musician requires 10ms or smaller latency. I read somewhere, on some special hardware/software combination, it is possible to achieve ~1ms latency with PCIe cards.
>Multichannel output for movie watching: It is related to #1, lower latency means less prone to exhibit lip sync problems. Many PCIe sound cards have 7.1ch analog out. But more serious movie fans use HDMI and dolby atmos AV amp rather than PCIe sound card

>Modern onboard sound is sometimes surprisingly good. Still, Its amplifier has lower damping factor than better quality external sound cards, it means external sound cards provide slightly tighter bass.
>If your motherboard audio implementation is not good and/or your IEM has high sensitivity, you may hear constant hiss noise on quiet passage or, beep/buzz noise when mouse moves. Better quality external sound card provides lower hiss.

I haven't noticed any hiss, but "tighter bass" sounds pretty good. At the very least, it probably wont hurt, and based on anecdotal evidence, it does sound better. So if I have an extra $200 bucks at some point, I'll get an AE-7, since cheaping out of this makes it more likely it'll be completely pointless.
>> No. 3318 [Edit]
File 170568790137.jpg - (2.36MB , 2639x4096 , F8o5tGlbkAAtQHp.jpg )
How can I manually backup gave save data from android 8.0.0? When I connect it to my computer it doesn't show the game folders. I know there's some fuckery with hidden folders in android but how do i get to see them and transfer them to my pc?
>> No. 3319 [Edit]
I believe to do this without root, only approach is via adb. See
>> No. 3350 [Edit]
File 170863329186.png - (71.76KB , 1892x620 , example.png )
Spammers have figured out they can circumvent url blacklists by using paste sites. This wouldn't be a problem if those had spam prevention, but for some reason, that isn't the norm. The only solution I can think of is creating a list of paste sites where this isn't a problem, and informing users about it, so they wont be surprised if one they try to use is blacklisted.

This still isn't optimal since many(most) users will probably ignore any such list.

edit: another solution could be getting the contents of linked-to sites and checking those for spam.

edit2: looking at it closer, this new spam links to pastes which don't have spam links either, but telegra dot ph and bitaps dot com addresses.

Post edited on 22nd Feb 2024, 12:36pm
>> No. 3351 [Edit]
>many(most) users will probably ignore any such list.
If users don't read the rules, the content they were going to post probably wasn't very high quality anyway.
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