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File 129592276815.jpg - (141.99KB , 716x742 , millenium_tan.jpg )
165 No. 165 [Edit]
Need help with computers? Post your questions here.

ME-tan will do her best to help (with the help of other users, ofc).
276 posts omitted. Last 50 shown. Expand all images
>> No. 1529 [Edit]
>>1517
Already took care of this myself.
>> No. 1572 [Edit]
I'm considering buying new HDD's. Maybe one 2TB to relieve two smaller old disks and one 6TB for backups.
All my current drives are Western Digital, haven't had a failure yet but many reviews say that similarly priced HGST is a more reliable brand.
HGST 7K6000 SATA models come in a variety of formats, I'm technologically impaired and can't tell which ones I need.

There's 512n, 4Kn and 512e. I tried to "research" this but didn't understand much from technical documentation.
Some forum posts pointed out that 512n is best for older devices that won't work with new formats, 4Kn is current technology but people had problems because many programs didn't understand 4K sectors and 512e is... 4K pretending to be 512? Some wrote that makes it slower or less reliable.
In WD specifications 2 of my newer HDD's are listed as Advanced Format but it doesn't say which one. In system information all my disks are 512 bytes/sector so "e" I guess?

There are also 3 different security options: BDE (encryption?), SE and ISE (secure data wiping?), at the moment 4Kn versions with encryption are unavailable here.

So I have 6 options for each disk. All of these are probably as good or better than my old HDDs but if I decide to buy them it will probably eat all my money so I feel I need to make the best possible choice.
>> No. 1579 [Edit]
Not exactly computer related. I'm looking to buy a new PC chair and was wondering if you guys could recommend any. Trying to find something moderately comfortable and durable that I can spend almost all day everyday in and wont fall apart after a couple months, under $300 or so.

I'm leaning towards this one:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=2T4-01ED-00001

but also considering these:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAAH75ZS4366
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1JA49C3274
>> No. 1580 [Edit]
>>1573
I'll consider buying used but knowing ebay shipping would be unavailable or too expensive.
Checked locally but there's nothing. Also so far I never trusted my countrymen enough to buy anything used from a stranger.
Noise could be a problem, I find my computer too loud already. I compared declared sound emission from HGST specifications with my current disks and it appeared only slightly louder though I did not expect that some new HDD's can still make that 'oldschool' noise.
Maybe I'll look for other options then.

SMART shows all drives good.
Thanks for the tips.
>> No. 1589 [Edit]
File 151107375493.jpg - (96.69KB , 796x527 , eat a dick.jpg )
1589
Anyone here know how to permanently disable this message? Clicking the third option essentially does the same thing as the second option as it resets every time the pc is restarted. It keeps coming up when I play a game and minimizes said game, which sometimes screws with my pc and makes me unable to get back to the game or my desktop while being left with a black screen (and game audio).
>> No. 1590 [Edit]
>>1589
Maybe you can try disabling the Troubleshooting messages altogether since it's been such a hindrance. Go tot Control Panel > Action Center (use search if you don't find it) > Left Sidebard > Change Action Center Settings > Look for "Windoews Troubleshooting" under "Maintenance Messages" > Untick the box > Click OK Button.
>> No. 1591 [Edit]
File 151108649339.jpg - (60.89KB , 1115x666 , gfdgdfgfdgdf.jpg )
1591
>>1590
I had already tried that and it hasn't worked.
>> No. 1593 [Edit]
>>1591
Did you manage to fix this?
>> No. 1594 [Edit]
>>1593
I ended up going to the .exe's properties for the game and checking disable desktop composition, haven't had the problem since.
>> No. 1659 [Edit]
Not exactly computer related but wasn't sure where else to ask. Any who, this might seem like a yahoo answers grade of stupid question but I need to know. Is there a difference between UV/black light and purple light? I have some RGB LED lights and don't want to damage my stuff with UV. If they're set to purple or blue, would it cause any negative effects?
>> No. 1660 [Edit]
>>1659
Yes, they both emit different frequencies of light within the electromagnetic spectrum, I recommend good ol' wikipedia, it's a fun read:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blacklight
>> No. 1661 [Edit]
>>1659
UV light will probably have a negative effect on your figs. Similar to if you left it out in the sunlight.

Your UV lightbulb is probably low power, but extended exposure will have negative effects. A small amount won't be too bad though.

UV and red light have big difference in energy. UV carries energy enough to mess with the carbon-carbon bonds in your PVC or skin, which is why UV light causes sunburns.
>> No. 1788 [Edit]
To partition or not to partition? I've installed an 8TB HDD, haven't formatted yet.
I always partitioned out of habit but I don't know this time.
Are there any downsides to running this disk as one big ol' partition?
I guess I'll use it to back up most of my stuff first. When that's done I'll keep all of my downloads there.
So far I feel like I don't have a reason to split it, but I'm not good at computers so I don't know if I'm not saying something really stupid.
>> No. 1789 [Edit]
>>1788
Maybe format a few hundred GB (or less) of that as a partition to occasionally backup your main OS partition to.
>> No. 1790 [Edit]
>>1788
Why partition your HDD?
More importantly is you should encrypt your harddrives, use veracrypt.
>> No. 1791 [Edit]
>>1789
>>1790

Thanks.
I've only used TrueCrypt and later VeraCrypt with flash drives I was afraid of losing outside. Even then I only made separate file containers, never full drive encryption.
Does doing that on PC require a clean HDD, or can it be done with ones already full without losing any data?
I also have BitLocker available but never tried enabling it.
>> No. 1805 [Edit]
File 155062442131.png - (1.19MB , 1833x860 , cdm-comparison-ss.png )
1805
An cheaper way to get 8tb HDDs is shucking i.e. buying an external HDD and taking it out of the casing. You can save a lot of money this way. Buy the My Book 8tb (Less than 8tb disks are said to be blues) and take the hard drive out of the external case. It has a white label now but it's the same as red, might even be a HGST He-10 drive (not 10tb though).

https://invidio.us/watch?v=qqdz9k5vmV4
I used part of its packaging material and a TX8 screwdriver, it worked for this guy with guitar picks and pliers.

You can reuse the case for other disks with a simple modification explained here:
https://forums.servethehome.com/index.php?threads/wd-mybook-8tb-shucking.21991/

>>1791
https://www.veracrypt.fr/en/System%20Encryption.html
It has to be encrypted with an existing OS and no files will be lost, you can use your computer while it's encrypting, there shouldn't be any problems (I haven't had any). Encrypted OS will ask for a pre-boot password, this will be in US keyboard layout.

As for devices, you will be given an option to 'encrypt and format' or 'encrypt in place', former is the fastest but all existing files on the partition/device will be lost, the latter will keep your files intact but encrypting will take looonger the more data it has.

In both cases make a backup of your files, just to be safe. After successful encryption transfer files over and secure erase the unencrypted device.
>> No. 1840 [Edit]
File 155741846098.jpg - (25.57KB , 500x375 , help.jpg )
1840
I saved some audio files from the internet that appear to be corrupt, I have no idea what to do about them.
They're .m4a which can't be renamed, moved, copied, deleted or anything.
They can be played (I'm using foobar) although strange things happen- I have to choose a default program for opening .m4a every time I open these particular files (doesn't happen with other uncorrupted mp4), and in the player they figure under a different name than in explorer. When I was saving these files I gave them normal names but when played they display only a short string of random letters and numbers.
I tried to repair them with VLC by 'converting' the tracks to the same format and saving them again which worked in the past but with these fuckers VLC just freezes.
Help. Save me.
>> No. 1841 [Edit]
>>1840
OK, I was able to crudely fix this.
When I downloaded the files I just copied and pasted their full titles with all the tags and stuff. I should have gotten a bad filename error but for some reason I didn't, they just got saved with way too long names.
Tried downloading the same mp4's again and with shorter names everything works as usual.
To get rid of the 'frozen' files I had to download Total Commander (which apparently doesn't get confused by ridiculously long filenames or something) and erase them through shift+del.
>> No. 1844 [Edit]
My piece of shit father broke his phone, without even asking he took an old one my mother was using as a media player, erased everything.
I don't even have a phone, I don't know what to do with it. Can deleted data be recovered through PC somehow?
>> No. 1845 [Edit]
>>1844
If those files were located on a SD card you for sure will get to recover files albeit corrupted with programs like recuva.
>> No. 1846 [Edit]
>>1845
He won't give me the card. I suppose nothing can be recovered from internal memory? That's that I guess. Thanks anyway.
>> No. 1848 [Edit]
I wanted to move stuff from one HDD to another without having to reinstall all my shit. Would it work if I cloned a drive and then renamed the new one to be the same as the old one? I've never tried it. Could you also recommend a cloning program for Windows?
>> No. 1849 [Edit]
>>1848
Yes that should work (I have done this on non-windows platforms but I don't see any reason why it shouldn't be the same on windows as well since from the OS point of view it's essentially addressing an indentical disk, and if just clone all the partition maps and everything should remain identical. Plus even if something does go wrong you still have the original HDD).

As for cloning software that you can run on windows, I've heard of filezilla which I'm assuming is free/open source. It may not be as polished UI wise as some of the shareware options but you'll probably be able to find a tutorial online walking through the steps.
>> No. 1850 [Edit]
File 155839580826.png - (727.95KB , 1003x581 , hdd.png )
1850
>>1849
>>1848
I've used 'zilla (pretty sure its clonezilla, filezilla is ftp) years ago successfully but remember it being a bit complicated and wondering if it would work till it finally finished. Remember something about it not liking to clone to different size disks (particularly if large to small). That might be fixed now though. Years later used a program called minitool partition wizard which was fairly simple since then that has a "copy disk wizard" that you can resize partitions and stuff. Heard other people suggest macrium reflect, not sure if that's any better.
>> No. 1851 [Edit]
>>1849
>>1850
Thanks guys.
Clonezilla has detailed step by step instructions but it says it doesn't work with GPT disks when trying to clone from smaller to larger volumes.
I'll try the other programs. Hopefully I won't make my komputar explode.
>> No. 1852 [Edit]
>>1851
If you can boot from its live CD, using GParted is pretty much the swiss army knife for any disk stuff. Still probably more hassle than using one of the native windows software, but it's worth a mention.
>> No. 1864 [Edit]
Anyone else having issues with Pale Moon? My browser became unusable earlier today, not sure why. I think it broke after I updated it. It's retardedly slow and freezes constantly.
>> No. 1865 [Edit]
>>1864
Didn't notice anything odd with the 28.6.1 update. Only bug I still notice is often when typing in the url bar on a new tab, enter won't work and you'll get no suggestions. Need to close the tab for a new one to get around that.
>> No. 1866 [Edit]
>>1865
Something else happened.
I reverted to an earlier version but it didn't help.
Looks like one of my extensions was broken so I disabled them and tried to update the browser again. It required a restart which I did but now it won't launch at all, only showing the restart prompt every time.
I have no idea what to do now. Maybe it's because after logging in I have to manually unlock the drive all of my stuff is on, I don't know.
What do?
>> No. 1867 [Edit]
>>1866
I also tried to set drives to unlock automatically with system drive on boot but the Pale Moon update is still stuck on reboot prompt.
>> No. 1868 [Edit]
File 156422853641.png - (4.43KB , 140x93 , Screenshot at 2019-07-27 07-54-37.png )
1868
>>1866
I would backup your browser profile data (in appdata if windows), the default profile is named dfsjsdh.default. Remove the plugins from the extensions folder in the original to see if it will start.
>> No. 1869 [Edit]
>>1868
I just don't understand computers.
I wanted to follow your suggestions but first I thought I'd install another copy of the browser in another folder as plan B.
The idea I had was to try copying the old profile onto the new installation if your method didn't work.
I launched the 'fresh' browser and it appears to be in exactly the same state I left the old one in.
The usual copy of the browser still won't launch but the new one seems to be working.
I'm confused.
I think I'll back up everything now, uninstall both copies then import the backups after reinstalling to my usual browser folder.
>> No. 1881 [Edit]
This is a complain rather than an asking for help but it still relates to IT troubleshooting and I don't know where else to post it. I installed Visual Studio 2019 Community and since something broke, I decided to uninstall and install it again. But apparently, for the new version of Visual Studio you only get ONE chance at deciding the installation path. From microsoft website:
>This location is set with your first installation and cannot be changed later from the installer UI. Instead, you must use command-line parameters to move the download cache.

The installation path is literally grayed out and pointing to drive that doesn't exist anymore since I changed the drive's letter and partitioned it. After calming down, I followed the advice and run the installer from cmd. It would worked well but then I wouldn't be making this post. My command was something like:
>vs_community --add Microsoft.VisualStudio.Workload.CoreEditor --path install="C:\VS" --path cache="E:\VS\cache" --path shared="E:\VS\shared"

It didn't work. I've tried uninstalling the installer (Yes, the installer is an application of its own now) and redownloading it but the path is still grayed out so it's probably lodged in the registry or whatever and I don't have the skill to change it. So I kept googling and finding no solutions until I came across this thread in the developer community of visual studio:
>We appreciate you taking the time to report this problem. Currently, the value in question can only be set on first install due to the complexity of tryign to relocate previously installed components. Moving forward, we are going to investigate the option to relocate these packages after the first installation. For now, the value is disabled if a previous install is detected.

>After careful evaluation of the problem impact and severity we are closing this problem as low priority. We understand that this might not be an ideal resolution for you, but be assured that we don’t make these decisions lightly.

Then some lifesaver posted below:
>You can change directory in registry at path "Computer\HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\VisualStudio\Setup", find the SharedInstallationPath and modify. Good luck :D

Everything should be fine since I finally got the installation running but its not. I wasted a lot of time for this. I wasted a lot of time trying to get one of the most popular IDE in the world that is made by one of the biggest technology company to work just because I want to change a fucking installation path. You have this gigantic IT company that can't even put a working guide on their website and their IT support has he nerve to call my problem low priority and blaming it on the "complexity of tryign to relocate previously installed components" or whatever the FUCK WHEN SOME RANDOM EMOTICON USING VIETNAMESE CODEMONKEY IS MORE HELPFUL THEN HIM. WHY THE FUCK IS THE INSTALLATION PATH LOCKED IN THE FIRST PLACE? DO THEY THINK PEOPLE ARE TOO STUPID TO DECIDE FOR THEMSELVES WHERE THEY WANT TO PUT THEIR FILES? WHAT THE FUCK DO YOU MEAN COMPLEXITY? IT'S LITERALLY JUST A FUCKING STRING IN THE REGISTRY. WHY IS INSTALLER ONLINE? WHY IS IT SO BLOATED? WHY IS WINDOWS SUCH A PIECE A OF SHIT? WHY DO EVERYBODY PROGRAM IN .NET LANGUAGE? FUCK YOU BILL GATES YOU FAGGOT JEW. I AM GOING TO BURN DOWN YOUR OVERPRICED GIMMICKY HOUSE AND FUCK YOU IN THE ASS. JUST YOU WAIT YOU BITCH.
>> No. 1882 [Edit]
>>1881
I just use system restore whenever I fuck up something hard to fix. Yeah, windows does suck though. A lot of cad software is exclusive to it and fuck using macos.
>> No. 1883 [Edit]
USB drive problem here.
It's been abused, I bent it a couple of times by accidentally walking into it while it was plugged into a front panel, but it always worked alright.
Well, not anymore. When I plug it in the device is recognized and listed as working correctly but it can't be accessed. I get a 'location is not available/accessible/access denied' error.
CHKDSK finds no problems.
Can I do anything to recover the shit I have in there?
>> No. 1885 [Edit]
>>1883
Is it formatted in NTFS? If so, the MFT and MFT mirror is possibly corrupt. TestDisk won't do anything since it's not a partition problem.
The only tool that actually manages to ignore the corrupt records and process the rest as normal is File Recovery in "Active Partition Recovery Profession".
NTFS is a bad filesystem with bad/no tools.
>> No. 1886 [Edit]
>>1885
Yes. TestDisk didn't do anything but I recovered some stuff with PhotoRec.
I guess that's it.
>> No. 1887 [Edit]
>>1886
Photorec doesn't do much since it scans for file headers and should be left as a last resort. Save for 1-2 files (that sit on the front of the MFT) the rest should be intact and full recovery is likely.
I fudged its name, search for "Active Partition Recovery Professional v15.0.0 Portable" and do a Superscan, tick NTFS and None (Fast) under signature recognition.
>> No. 1888 [Edit]
>>1887
OK. Thank you.
>> No. 1895 [Edit]
File 156955102791.jpg - (37.03KB , 600x800 , 31t.jpg )
1895
Hello.
I don't need any help. I just wanted to post that I fumbled and dropped one of my perfectly healthy disks like the gigantic and clumsy retard that I am. Now it's dead. Thankfully, I have some redundancy in the form of a backup disk. Thus nothing is gone besides some money for the replacement disk; however, this could have easily resulted in the death of TBs of visual novels and music.
Remember to backup (and carefully handle) your digital crap, TC!
>> No. 1906 [Edit]
I'm using grabber to browse for pictures and it crashed and wiped all the tabs I had open. Is there any way to restore them or some history function I could use?
This is a fucking disaster. I'll never be able to find all of my shit again.
>> No. 1907 [Edit]
>>1906
Assuming you're on modern Windows, your user-specific crap will be here: "%USERPROFILE%\AppData\Local\Bionus\Grabber". Try opening the tabs.json file in a text editor to see if your stuff is present. Unfortunately, since you've opened Grabber after the crash, this file was most likely overwritten and thus contains nothing of value. I also don't see any automatic backups either.
My condolences, by the way.
>> No. 1908 [Edit]
>>1907
It's empty. I didn't know it would do that. In the past it crashed on me very rarely and always restored the tabs so I assumed there was some kind of backup.
Fuck damn it. I want to die.
>> No. 1909 [Edit]
>>1908
What about your favorites? Are they still there?
>> No. 1910 [Edit]
>>1909
Yes but I found tabs to be more convenient so I almost never saved anything to favourites.
>> No. 1911 [Edit]
>>1910
The only other thing I can think of is asking some more knowledgeable people--like the main developer himself.
From Grabber's homepage:
>If you have any questions about the program, found a bug and don’t want to use the github issue tracker, or anything, you can contact me by mail in French or in English at bio.nus@hotmail.fr.
I don't know if the issue tracker is an appropriate place since it's about reporting issues and not soliciting help. An IRC channel or forum would really be beneficial.
In any case, good luck.
>> No. 1985 [Edit]
I have a horrible coil whine problem.
My graphics card started making awful noises today, I can't figure out what the fuck.
Up until now it would often hiss or whistle on things like loading screens or intros like most cards do, but never made any sounds outside of that.
Today it started buzzing and whining like a dying lightbulb (but louder) almost constantly, even on idle in desktop. Sometimes it stops for a couple of seconds. The noise changes in pitch when doing things like scrolling and dragging windows. Stops when the monitor is disconnected. Stops when all windows and programs get closed but then starts again.
I didn't notice any problems other than the noise.
The noise is so fucked up I had to uninstall the thing. Please help.
>> No. 1986 [Edit]
>>1985
It's not the fans on the gpu is it? I find it hard to imagine anything else on it making an actual sound.
>> No. 1987 [Edit]
>>1986
>I find it hard to imagine anything else on it making an actual sound
Not OP but coil whine is a pretty-well known quirk of electronics. I think it's the inductor that's actually responsible. I have this on my laptop on any gpu intensive workload.

I think besides mitigations like double-checking inductors are secured to the board and getting a soundproof case, there's not much that can be done.
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