Beep Boop Bip
[Return] [Entire Thread] [Last 50 posts] [First 100 posts]
Posting mode: Reply
Subject   (reply to 165)
BB Code
File URL
Embed   Help
Password  (for post and file deletion)
  • Supported file types are: BMP, CSS, EPUB, FLAC, FLV, GIF, JPG, OGG, PDF, PNG, PSD, RAR, TORRENT, TXT, WEBM, ZIP
  • Maximum file size allowed is 10000 KB.
  • Images greater than 260x260 pixels will be thumbnailed.
  • Currently 655 unique user posts.
  • board catalog

File 129592276815.jpg - (141.99KB , 716x742 , millenium_tan.jpg )
165 No. 165 [Edit]
Need help with computers? Post your questions here.

ME-tan will do her best to help (with the help of other users, ofc).
243 posts omitted. Last 50 shown. Expand all images
>> No. 1294 [Edit]
Thanks, yeah I can't really see myself doing a RAID set up. Having my os on a single SSD is good enough for me.
>> No. 1297 [Edit]
Yeah don't skimp on the mobo, but don't go full bling either. Any reason for getting an amd cpu? I'd just grab a midrange Intel core i5, doesn't have to be latest gen. With that you won't need as big a cooler, for one. More importantly I implore you to go for a gtx 970 instead. The sacrifice in performance is insignificant, and you'll save a lot of money. You can also go cheaper on the ram, as long as the brand is decent - e.g. kingston, corsair. I think having a 250gb ssd is fine if you plan on having more than a few games installed at any given time. PSU is fine, just about anything corsair and seasonic goes. About the prospect of sli: my recommendation is to just upgrade to a new gen card when the time comes, and sell your old card. With this you won't need that high wattage on your psu.

The trick with selecting components is knowing what brands to get, how to balance your budget between the various components, and what kinds of specs to prioritize. More watts, cores and hertz isn't always better. Personally I value system stability very highly. I also implore you to disregard color matching on internal components, focus on price and quality.

Make sure everything will fit inside your case, check the specified measurements on all ends.
>> No. 1302 [Edit]
>>1297 >>1299
>Any reason for getting an amd cpu?
I've currently got an amd quad core in my system, guess it's mostly the familiarity.
I wanted to get a good quality cpu since some emulators (mainly pcsx2) seem to be very cpu demanding.
That said I have been hearing lately that intel cpus are better for gaming, but when looking at intel I found that something like the i7-4790K would only be a minor improvement over the FX-8350, but at nearly twice the cost.
An i5-4690K after looking into it seems more reasonable though.
I may have to rethink the cpu here, and as such what mobo to go with.

>I also implore you to disregard color matching on internal components
I get where you're coming from here. Call me weird but I'd like to have something I could feel proud of, and I can be kinda anal about having stuff match. I mean granted I have no friends to show the thing off to but it'd still be nice to have something cool looking sitting here next to me all the time. Like how figs don't serve any practical purpose but are nice to look at. I don't think it'd be that much of an issue anyway, tons of stuff out there comes in multiple colors to choose from. Even with grapicscards I doubt I'd be going with a reference model so there'd be plenty of aftermarket gpus to pick from in all styles. Besides, tons of stuff out there comes in blue anyways. My current system on the otherhand is something of a black and white theme, and for some reason white components aren't very common out there, not as much as red, blue, and green.

>my recommendation is to just upgrade to a new gen card when the time comes, and sell your old card. With this you won't need that high wattage on your psu.
As mentioned I'd be getting a single card, I just wanna keep the option open is all then see how things go latter down the line.

Thanks again for the responses.
>> No. 1303 [Edit]
>As mentioned I'd be getting a single card, I just wanna keep the option open is all then see how things go latter down the line.
Sure, nothing wrong with that. Should you however at some point consider adding another card, just toss it out of the window. It's such a hassle.

>I may have to rethink the cpu here, and as such what mobo to go with.
Good. I made the mistake of upgrading an AMD cpu because I already had an AMD cpu. It ended up with side-grading to Intel. Generally the intel chipset mobo's are also of higher quality, and with greater availability. In conclusion you have to look at the product, and not the brand, when it comes to cpu's and gpu's. It just so happens that Intel and Nvidia has had the better options lately.

Good luck, hit us up again whenever.
>> No. 1319 [Edit]
File 143258639747.jpg - (2.16MB , 1366x1536 , x220 photos.jpg )
Could anyone help me out with a problem I'm having here? I've spent countless hours searching online but can't find much on this problem.

For whatever reason random parts of random files will show up as corrupted on my 64gb SD card when connected to my x220t. When connected to my desktop everything on the card is fine. I say it's random because the corruption jumps around every time I remove the sd card and put it back in. For example, if I play a video off the card it'll glitch out at 5:34 for example, and will glitch out at 5:34 even if I close the video and try again, but if I remove the card and play it again it might glitch out at 4:23 or 6:17 or so on.
windows (8.1) shows that there are no errors when scanning the card.
In my searches it seems people with the same laptop had a card reader that didn't work at all or worked fine, but nothing between like this.

Now then, I've tried installing three different drivers so far.

and even tried a bios update.

So far none of this has fixed the issue.
I've also suspected that it may be due to the size of the card, since I've test a 4gb sd card on this laptop with the same source files and they showed up fine. Figured maybe it was due to the card being exfat and not fat32, so I did a complete format with windows, then again with a utility into fat32.

I'm really at wits end with this here and any help would be greatly appreciated.
As a last resort I think I might uninstall windows 8.1 and just go with win7 since that's what the laptop originally had on it (bought it used without a hdd, but it's got the win7 sticker)
>> No. 1320 [Edit]
maybe you could try formatting the card to ntfs? not sure but it may be worth a try at least

also about what you said about switching to windows 7: even if you do it might not work since it could be a hardware problem and not a driver problem, maybe.

I have a starry sky background on my laptop too!

Post edited on 25th May 2015, 2:10pm
>> No. 1321 [Edit]
Does anyone have experience using rsync for backups? I plan on using it to transfer everything from one drive to another (smaller) one in a few days once it arrives. Before I have used clonezilla but only when the drive I am cloning to is larger than the original, and I'm pretty sure it doesn't work when the original is larger. right?
>> No. 1324 [Edit]
File 143260101977.jpg - (945.93KB , 1366x768 , x220t photos 2.jpg )
Thanks for trying to help butI formatted into ntfs and the problem remains.
I don't think it's a hardware problem though since my 4gb sd card works fine on the system.
>> No. 1325 [Edit]
As long as there's no limitation in space, I don't see why it wouldn't work with your other application. I take it you're copying a filesystem, and not just a bunch of files?
>> No. 1326 [Edit]
Yes, a filesystem.
>> No. 1327 [Edit]
Well, I did it today, and it worked just fine. Neat stuff.
>> No. 1329 [Edit]
I found out what the problem was and was able to fix it. After doing more research I found the problems I was having were similar to those found in dying SD cards and bootlegs. I contacted the seller and explained the situation, they sent me a similar but different replacement card. The card looked never used (no marks on the connectors) but came without packaging. It too had very similar problems but not as severe, and for some reason the data error would jump around without restarting/unplugging. Just closing the viewer/player and opening it again would make the error jump to a new spot. I bought a 128 PNY SD card from a different source and so far it works flawlessly. I think the other seller was handing out bootlegs after all. I have no clue why those cards worked fine on my pc but whatever.
>> No. 1350 [Edit]
Anyone know how to get rainmeter to messure space on sd cards? mine just come up as 0.0 b/0.0 b used.
>> No. 1381 [Edit]
File 145168757855.jpg - (573.37KB , 1200x900 , DSC01218.jpg )
It took a long time, but I finally got my system built.
I think I started gathering parts in early April of 2015, had the psu and mobo sitting around for months. Wasn't till relatively recently that I just said fuck it and got the rest of the components.
It's running a i7-4790k, gtx970, 16gbddr3, with two 250gb Samsung ssd.

This was a ground up build as almost everything was obsolete on my old system. I thought I could at least reuse the ram but the current mobo doesn't support ddr2. only thing I was able to take was the hard drive.
Ended up tossing a spare hard drive in my old system from a busted laptop and figure I'll use it in the living room for mulimedia.
>> No. 1382 [Edit]
File 145168768817.jpg - (573.37KB , 1200x900 , DSC01218.jpg )
>>1288 here.

It took a long time, but I finally got my system built.
I think I started gathering parts in early April of 2015, had the psu and mobo sitting around for months. Wasn't till relatively recently that I just said fuck it and got the rest of the components.
It's running a i7-4790k, Gigabyte gtx 970, 16gb of Corsair ddr3 1600, Asrock z97 extreme3, Corsair hx750i, with two 250gb Samsung ssd (one on OS and one for games, not raid), and a enermax black twister.

This was a ground up build as almost everything was obsolete on my old system. I thought I could at least reuse the ram but the current mobo doesn't support ddr2. only thing I was able to take was the hard drive.
Ended up tossing a spare hard drive in my old system from a busted laptop and figure I'll use it in the living room for mulimedia.

Post edited on 1st Jan 2016, 8:31pm
>> No. 1384 [Edit]
Sounds and looks good.

I recently changed laptop. I meant to get a Lenovo Y50, but somehow fucked up real good and got a Y510p instead. The main difference is that I got a GT755m instead of a GTX860m or superior. I'm still trying to mend it, finding someone nearby to arrange some mutually beneficial deal.
>> No. 1385 [Edit]
File 145170476495.jpg - (86.72KB , 766x810 , 1406098133011.jpg )
>I thought I could at least reuse the ram but the current mobo doesn't support ddr2

exactly how old was your previous motherboard?
>> No. 1386 [Edit]
File 145170823871.jpg - (125.87KB , 728x547 , for-font-b-GATEWAY-b-font-ACER-DX4300-03-SYSTEM-BO.jpg )
I think the motherboard was a ' MB.G0409.005 '.
>> No. 1388 [Edit]
File 145199664343.jpg - (25.20KB , 390x300 , 1310199162472.jpg )
I hate that pic so much.
>> No. 1389 [Edit]
And now I am actually crying.
>> No. 1390 [Edit]
Doesn't affect me so badly, probably because I still love and care for my Windows ME installation.
>> No. 1401 [Edit]
Not a real problem here, just kinda looking for advice or recommendations.
The 1tb HDD I used primary for music recently took a shit on me (but I can still get data off if I play with the power cable). I was able to get a 4tb HDD at a decent price, but really don't need that much space for just music. My 3tb HDD I use for videos is practically full, same for my 2tb used for games.
My question is this. would it be a dumb move to transfer all the data from my 3tb drive to my new 4tb drive then transfer all the data from my 2tb to my 3tb and use the 2tb for music? or should I just leave them alone and used the 4tb not only for music but also as overflow for videos and games? Thanks in advance.
>> No. 1402 [Edit]
I don't see anything wrong with doing a big move like that, it's nice to be organized. The real question is how patient are you? If you're willing to spend, like, literally a day or two transferring terabytes of information from drive to drive, then go ahead. Just be aware it might impact performance of your computer a little.
>> No. 1403 [Edit]
Alright cool. My real concern was putting undo stress on the drives and maybe having some issues with the data that's been sitting there for years, but I guess I'm probably just over thinking it.
>> No. 1404 [Edit]

your idea would be the most realistic method of keeping everything together.

I would recommend it over the lazy way of having chunks of everything overflowing everywhere, especially if you plan on actually watching/playing any of the 5 TB stuff you downloaded a couple years down the line and not need to do a lot of hunting.

alternatively, you can go through and delete all the crap you won't watch again or already played or won't get to playing anytime within the next few years. The longer you wait, the worse the problem gets.
>> No. 1405 [Edit]
File 145592375127.png - (133.44KB , 450x286 , transfer.png )
much fun
>> No. 1406 [Edit]
Transfer is still going, really didn't think it'd take this long...
>> No. 1413 [Edit]
Just out of curiosity, if the back light on a monitor is starting to die is it even possible to fix it or should one just toss the thing in the trash?
>> No. 1414 [Edit]
I was able to pick up a modem for like $5 from a yardsale ( Netgear CG3000D ) and it has built in wifi. I've been using a isp provided modem and a wifi router up till now. With this new device is there any reason to still use a separate router? I've heard there can be security issues with using just a modem alone.
>> No. 1415 [Edit]
File 145893844365.gif - (126.26KB , 429x650 , 1429809245351.gif )

the problem isn't so much whether the modem and router are one device or two, it's that ISPs do some really shady shit with the "built in" router.

They use it to log and keep track of a good amount of your parametric data (what domains/IPs you visit often, how much in total you upload/download) from YOU, as well as being the throttle for making sure you only get as much bandwidth as you pay for. Also, if your internet company is also in the cell phone business, your router may be a "free-wifi" point for anybody near by with their service unless you wrap the antenna in tin foil. Another always-on thing that was built into the router.

Then there's the additional security issues that they go out of their way to build into the routers. They generally have multiple backdoors built into them, which makes things easy to fix when a dumbass locks himself out of the router, but it presents a very significant security issue if the codes ever get leaked. Note that those backdoors will generally work so long as the router is plugged in, remote on/off and settings flashing through the cable and through the wireless (even when the wireless is set to off) are the ones I've had personal experience with, but I wouldn't doubt more sinister ones existing.

Oh, and you physically can not bypass the built in router to hook up to the modem, so an additional router really doesn't do anything aside from use as a hub for additional Ethernet cable outlets to the internet.

On the bright side, the ISPs generally don't cheap out when it comes to hardware specs for the built in routers. Most of them are fairly decent, or would be if it wasn't for the issues listed.
>> No. 1476 [Edit]
Thats very informative, thank you.
>> No. 1487 [Edit]
File 14768502452.jpg - (100.71KB , 750x990 , xmI9qYf.jpg )
I've been messing around on 3DCG (late, I know) but I can't figure out how to gett he hardsaves that people put up to work. I save the .png file in Documents>TechArts3D>TDCG and open up the program only to find it isn't in my saves. Do I need to use something else with it? Am I not saving it in the right place? Clearly I'm doing something wrong but I don't know what that is. Google has not helped me with this so far.

Sorry if this is in the wrong thread or board.
>> No. 1517 [Edit]
I don't suppose anyone here would know how to safely update a PS3 on 4.41 Rogero to the current Rebug?
>> No. 1529 [Edit]
Already took care of this myself.
>> No. 1572 [Edit]
I'm considering buying new HDD's. Maybe one 2TB to relieve two smaller old disks and one 6TB for backups.
All my current drives are Western Digital, haven't had a failure yet but many reviews say that similarly priced HGST is a more reliable brand.
HGST 7K6000 SATA models come in a variety of formats, I'm technologically impaired and can't tell which ones I need.

There's 512n, 4Kn and 512e. I tried to "research" this but didn't understand much from technical documentation.
Some forum posts pointed out that 512n is best for older devices that won't work with new formats, 4Kn is current technology but people had problems because many programs didn't understand 4K sectors and 512e is... 4K pretending to be 512? Some wrote that makes it slower or less reliable.
In WD specifications 2 of my newer HDD's are listed as Advanced Format but it doesn't say which one. In system information all my disks are 512 bytes/sector so "e" I guess?

There are also 3 different security options: BDE (encryption?), SE and ISE (secure data wiping?), at the moment 4Kn versions with encryption are unavailable here.

So I have 6 options for each disk. All of these are probably as good or better than my old HDDs but if I decide to buy them it will probably eat all my money so I feel I need to make the best possible choice.
>> No. 1579 [Edit]
Not exactly computer related. I'm looking to buy a new PC chair and was wondering if you guys could recommend any. Trying to find something moderately comfortable and durable that I can spend almost all day everyday in and wont fall apart after a couple months, under $300 or so.

I'm leaning towards this one:

but also considering these:
>> No. 1580 [Edit]
I'll consider buying used but knowing ebay shipping would be unavailable or too expensive.
Checked locally but there's nothing. Also so far I never trusted my countrymen enough to buy anything used from a stranger.
Noise could be a problem, I find my computer too loud already. I compared declared sound emission from HGST specifications with my current disks and it appeared only slightly louder though I did not expect that some new HDD's can still make that 'oldschool' noise.
Maybe I'll look for other options then.

SMART shows all drives good.
Thanks for the tips.
>> No. 1589 [Edit]
File 151107375493.jpg - (96.69KB , 796x527 , eat a dick.jpg )
Anyone here know how to permanently disable this message? Clicking the third option essentially does the same thing as the second option as it resets every time the pc is restarted. It keeps coming up when I play a game and minimizes said game, which sometimes screws with my pc and makes me unable to get back to the game or my desktop while being left with a black screen (and game audio).
>> No. 1590 [Edit]
Maybe you can try disabling the Troubleshooting messages altogether since it's been such a hindrance. Go tot Control Panel > Action Center (use search if you don't find it) > Left Sidebard > Change Action Center Settings > Look for "Windoews Troubleshooting" under "Maintenance Messages" > Untick the box > Click OK Button.
>> No. 1591 [Edit]
File 151108649339.jpg - (60.89KB , 1115x666 , gfdgdfgfdgdf.jpg )
I had already tried that and it hasn't worked.
>> No. 1593 [Edit]
Did you manage to fix this?
>> No. 1594 [Edit]
I ended up going to the .exe's properties for the game and checking disable desktop composition, haven't had the problem since.
>> No. 1659 [Edit]
Not exactly computer related but wasn't sure where else to ask. Any who, this might seem like a yahoo answers grade of stupid question but I need to know. Is there a difference between UV/black light and purple light? I have some RGB LED lights and don't want to damage my stuff with UV. If they're set to purple or blue, would it cause any negative effects?
>> No. 1660 [Edit]
Yes, they both emit different frequencies of light within the electromagnetic spectrum, I recommend good ol' wikipedia, it's a fun read:
>> No. 1661 [Edit]
UV light will probably have a negative effect on your figs. Similar to if you left it out in the sunlight.

Your UV lightbulb is probably low power, but extended exposure will have negative effects. A small amount won't be too bad though.

UV and red light have big difference in energy. UV carries energy enough to mess with the carbon-carbon bonds in your PVC or skin, which is why UV light causes sunburns.
>> No. 1788 [Edit]
To partition or not to partition? I've installed an 8TB HDD, haven't formatted yet.
I always partitioned out of habit but I don't know this time.
Are there any downsides to running this disk as one big ol' partition?
I guess I'll use it to back up most of my stuff first. When that's done I'll keep all of my downloads there.
So far I feel like I don't have a reason to split it, but I'm not good at computers so I don't know if I'm not saying something really stupid.
>> No. 1789 [Edit]
Maybe format a few hundred GB (or less) of that as a partition to occasionally backup your main OS partition to.
>> No. 1790 [Edit]
Why partition your HDD?
More importantly is you should encrypt your harddrives, use veracrypt.
>> No. 1791 [Edit]

I've only used TrueCrypt and later VeraCrypt with flash drives I was afraid of losing outside. Even then I only made separate file containers, never full drive encryption.
Does doing that on PC require a clean HDD, or can it be done with ones already full without losing any data?
I also have BitLocker available but never tried enabling it.
>> No. 1805 [Edit]
File 155062442131.png - (1.19MB , 1833x860 , cdm-comparison-ss.png )
An cheaper way to get 8tb HDDs is shucking i.e. buying an external HDD and taking it out of the casing. You can save a lot of money this way. Buy the My Book 8tb (Less than 8tb disks are said to be blues) and take the hard drive out of the external case. It has a white label now but it's the same as red, might even be a HGST He-10 drive (not 10tb though).
I used part of its packaging material and a TX8 screwdriver, it worked for this guy with guitar picks and pliers.

You can reuse the case for other disks with a simple modification explained here:

It has to be encrypted with an existing OS and no files will be lost, you can use your computer while it's encrypting, there shouldn't be any problems (I haven't had any). Encrypted OS will ask for a pre-boot password, this will be in US keyboard layout.

As for devices, you will be given an option to 'encrypt and format' or 'encrypt in place', former is the fastest but all existing files on the partition/device will be lost, the latter will keep your files intact but encrypting will take looonger the more data it has.

In both cases make a backup of your files, just to be safe. After successful encryption transfer files over and secure erase the unencrypted device.
[Return] [Entire Thread] [Last 50 posts] [First 100 posts]

View catalog

Delete post []
Report post

[Home] [Manage]

[ Rules ] [ an / foe / ma / mp3 / vg / vn ] [ cr / fig / navi ] [ mai / ot / so / tat ] [ arc / ddl / irc / lol / ns / pic ] [ home ]