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File 129592276815.jpg - (141.99KB , 716x742 , millenium_tan.jpg )
165 No. 165 [Edit]
Need help with computers? Post your questions here.

ME-tan will do her best to help (with the help of other users, ofc).
460 posts omitted. Last 50 shown. Expand all images
>> No. 3144 [Edit]
>>3141
This noise distinctively sounds like faint crackling and isn't constant at all; it only becomes audible whenever the GPU is under stress, which is why part of me worries that it's somehow related to me having messed up when installing said GPU a few months back since I don't think I ever heard it before then. I'm almost certain the PSU has got to go, but the idea of that noise still being there after switching won't go away and really messes with me so I keep trying to make sure it's not a mistake before going through with placing an order.
>> No. 3145 [Edit]
>>3144
What wattage is your PSU, how old is it, and what graphics card did you install? What graphics card did you have before?
>> No. 3146 [Edit]
>>3144
Post recording? When under stress the GPU has greater power draw and the fans would kick in. It could be the fans causing the noise. Can you try manually running the fans?
>> No. 3147 [Edit]
>>3145
I got the PC custom built and shipped to me about a decade ago; it has a Corsair HX850 at 850w and the old GTX 780 was replaced with an RTX 3060. I also got a new set of RAM sticks (removed the old ones) at the same time as the GPU.

>>3146
https://litter.catbox.moe/g3jz8t.mp3
This is what it sounds like, though it's constant while triggered; the brief pause at the start of the recording is after leaving the loading screen and before pushing the pause button in one of the games triggering the noise.
>> No. 3148 [Edit]
>>3146
..and the volume increase near the end is just me moving the phone closer to the PSU exhaust for better sound.
>> No. 3149 [Edit]
>>3147
Yeah doesn't sound like coil whine or SMPS noise to me. It sounds either like some arcing or something scraping against something else. I don't have any experience with pc building though, this is just my interpretation from general electronics knowledge. Maybe someone else can chime in.
>> No. 3150 [Edit]
>>3149
I tried launching an old game I remembered provoking typical coil whine: the noise still came from the PSU, which was a relief, but it's clearly distinct from the more crackling kind of noise Shogun 2 among others will cause.
I really, really don't want to replace the PSU unless I have to, but I absolutely don't want to lose the whole system either; assuming it really is the PSU getting worn, would I be an idiot to keep using it until I encounter actual problems regarding functionality? So far it really is just me freaking out about a weird noise nobody seems able to pinpoint, after all..
>> No. 3152 [Edit]
I want to build my first PC. I watched all 3 parts of the newegg series on how to build a PC, but they're pretty outdated. I just want something that can render videos and animations well in adobe premiere and can play some games like Insurgency. Can I get some pointers?
>> No. 3153 [Edit]
>>3152
Easiest way is to just look up what other people have done (there's a site somewhere of combinations people have tested to work fine, with links to buy), and just do that. I think the actual assembly is quite literally plugging things into each other, everything is socketed so no soldering required at all. If you care mostly about rendering just get a graphics card with NVENC support (unless you are absolutely picky about having the best possible output in which case you're limited to cpu encoding and will need to get a beefy cpu).

*Disclaimer I have never built a pc and all my knowledge is theoretical.
>> No. 3156 [Edit]
Theoretically, would it be possible to swap a work computer's processor with one of my own?

I'm trying to upgrade from a I7 7700 to a 10700 from a computer at my job and wanted to know if maybe a network admin or someone would notice. The computers here are typically only running two or three programs barely using 10% of the CPU at any given time. The 7700 is from a 6-year-old laptop motherboard and the 10700 is a desktop. The computer in question is in a half decent blindspot and so are several others.

Again, just theoretically, would this work?
>> No. 3157 [Edit]
>>3156
You might need to install/uninstall some driver software for the CPU. Depending on how strict your organization policy is, that might require admin permission. Do you normally need admin permission to install programs?
>> No. 3158 [Edit]
>>3156
If the computer is in an AD domain and protected by something like BitLocker, swapping the CPU might invalidate the keys in the TPM, which you might have to ask your network admin for (I've seen field service in some companies just giving them away if you ask nicely, especially since they sometimes spontaneously invalidate after BIOS updates or whatever, but it might raise some suspicion). I don't know whether a network admin could be actively notified of hardware changes like this, though.
>> No. 3159 [Edit]
>>3157
Yeah, a while ago I tried installing some miner software and a few other programs, but everything asks for admin permission. Workaround for this?

>>3158
There's a young I.T guy that comes around every now and again that I'm friends with. He does all the BIOS updates from what I can tell. Maybe he has the keys you're talking about? I also thought that maybe I could just play dumb and say my computer isn't working and have them install the driver's you're talking about.
>> No. 3160 [Edit]
>>3156
They aren't even the same socket, so no
>> No. 3173 [Edit]
>>3172
This report is so unintelligible that it borders on a shitpost. Anyway, I haven't used Windows for years but you should be able to uninstall updates.
>> No. 3174 [Edit]
File 167899379333.jpg - (277.22KB , 1792x828 , riko com vestido.jpg )
3174
>>3173
I agree, I apologize. I was having a rage fit and couldn't type anything that remotely resemble an actual thought. This week I've been having uncountable such fits. I actually broke my favourite milk mug during one of these. I had that mug since I was little kid. I did not meant to post such an unseemly post. I have deleted it and after calming myself down and refusing to hit any expensive piece of technology, I have came up with a solution. Please forget I've ever posted that.
>> No. 3190 [Edit]
File 16822227553.jpg - (154.36KB , 801x1053 , 1.jpg )
3190
Bit of a long shot, but thought I might as well ask.
For a while I've had this issue with "micro stuttering" in games, only I think it's more than that. sometimes FPS drops into the 40s. When I first started to really notice this I thought it was the higher end game I was trying to play (RDR2), so I went and got a better GPU. I found it was still doing it. I read the game was poorly ported, so I assumed it was possibly just that. I was also forced to limit my power usage, as it was setting off my backup battery. I was also running it on an HDD.

I've been playing HL2 lately, off an SSD. A game that by all means should run on max settings flawlessly even with cheap old junk hardware. Yet it runs about as smooth as sandpaper.
The image included was taken as I left Half Life 2 running. I touched nothing and nothing was moving on screen, it was just a static frame. FPS generally stayed around 56-60, but would drop to 45fps almost regularly.
Some of my hardware is a little on the older side now, but even then a game this old should run fine shouldn't it?

My PC specs i7-4790k @4.00gz, 24gb DDR3 overclocked ram, HX-750i. asrock z97 extreme3, RTX-3080. on Win10 LTSC.

So far I've tried updating graphic drivers (with a clean removal of the old ones), Disabling microsoft's gamebar and game mode, and blocking almost everything that starts with my pc then running the game with nothing in the background. I've also tried disabling v-sync in game and applying it via the nvidya control panel, and vice versa.
I considered getting a monitor with g-sync, but because of those 40fps dips I'm not sure if that would even help.
Or is my rig maybe just too old and janky?
>> No. 3191 [Edit]
>>3190
Not a gamer but those specs should handle Half-Life 2 easily (it runs smooth even on integrated graphics of my laptop, albeit not without getting toasty). Not sure how to interpret that graph or what the scale is, the GPU temperature looks a bit odd, it seems like it should steady state yet I see fluctations. Try manually cranking fan speed to max and seeing if it delays the onset of the issue? I'm not familiar with windows system debugging tools, I think Russinovich's tools (Sysinternals et al.) are the gold standard there.

G-sync will technically help in making the stutter less noticeable, but it doesn't solve the root issue. You shouldn't be limited by IO, CPU, or GPU based on those specs.
>> No. 3192 [Edit]
>>3191
Yeah the graph is a bit weird. The text for each readout is just above it.
FPS is the top one. GPU usage is bellow that, and temp is pretty consistent at 40
>> No. 3193 [Edit]
File 168222540869.jpg - (122.94KB , 581x1037 , 2.jpg )
3193
This is what it looks like during gameplay. I should also point out that I've seen this kinda thing in the past outside of games too for years. Like while watching anime, scenes where the frame pans over a shot would be very jerky. I guess I kinda just learned to live with it.
>> No. 3194 [Edit]
>>3193
Oh I was reading the graph wrong, it's the usage that seems to dip about when the fps dips, the temp is nice and constant (this is much more noticeable on the first graph you posted).

The GPU Usage dip would seem to indicate a CPU-side issue to me, for some reason the cpu occasionally isn't issuing enough to keep the GPU busy, leading to the FPS dip.

Edit: Although I don't know the units of time on x-axis. If that was with vsync on and the sampling period is about 1/120 seconds, then it might just be an artifact of vsync blocking the game loop.

Post edited on 22nd Apr 2023, 10:41pm
>> No. 3195 [Edit]
File 16823095835.jpg - (99.97KB , 507x1031 , 1.jpg )
3195
I guess I kinda figured it out. The solution wasn't mention or even hinted at anywhere I looked online.

I found that by switching to my second monitor and setting it as a primary, it ran perfectly. So I started messing with settings on my main monitor. I actually have three 'monitors' connected to my system. Two normal pc monitors and a TV.
Apparently it's because I had monitor 2 and 3(the TV) set to duplicate. So anything on monitor 2 would be shown on the TV. I don't know why, but once I set it to extend desktop, the issue was resolved. Changing it back, replicated the same issue. Needless to say, I won't be using the duplicate setting anymore.
>> No. 3196 [Edit]
>>3195
That makes sense, trying to vsync across different monitors will create issues.
>> No. 3202 [Edit]
I don't know what to do anymore and I'm losing my mind. Every single fucking time I reboot my pc the audio from the speakers stops working. It's something driver related. Initially I used to just run troubleshooting but then that stopped working and I had to manually unistall and reinstall the audio drivers. I don't remember what I did and how i did it. I am also fucking tired of having to do this shit every fucking time. Is there any solution? Windows 10 pc.
>> No. 3205 [Edit]
Whenever I can't wrap my head around a problem, I just do a clean windows install. Backing up my User folder on an USB drive takes like 10 minutes
>> No. 3243 [Edit]
File 169111301310.jpg - (584.40KB , 904x1500 , F2nfDkJb0AA4b9Q.jpg )
3243
I need help decompiling an android game. I'm trying to figure some stuff about the inner workings of the game, I'm no programmer but I had a few classes and hope I will be able to understand the code. What's be most beginner friendly way to go through this? I tried apktool but I only got the cli version to work, and for some reason JADX says cant make virtual machine fatal exception every time i try running the bat. What's causing this?
>> No. 3244 [Edit]
>>3243
apktool/baksmali only gets you to dalvik bytecode format, which is going to be a pain to reverse. You're probably better of decompiling to java directly, but as you noted the free decompilers are kind of poor. If jadx didn't work and you've tried tweaking things, you can try the older dex2jar + fernflower, but iirc dex2jar doesn't support newer dex versions (anything past the move to art?)
>> No. 3245 [Edit]
>>3243
>>3244
Oh wait I misread, it's not that the decompilation failed, seems like you can't even open jadx. Seems like a windows problem to me.
>> No. 3249 [Edit]
>>3245
Do you have any ideas for solving it?
>> No. 3250 [Edit]
>>3249
Double check your java installation, use linux if needed.
>> No. 3251 [Edit]
>>3250
On their github it says that any version from 8 onwards will do, but it also says make sure you have java 11 or newer installed. I suppose they forgot to update the first comment. I am running java 1.8.0_121
>> No. 3252 [Edit]
File 169136015094.png - (22.71KB , 400x400 , media_BjFutwXCIAArx7q.png )
3252
>>3251
I can run it with Java 8 just fine it'd seem, but I'm on 1.8.0_372 (OpenJDK, Temurin build); 1.8.0_121 seems to be from about January 2017(?), so it's not unlikely something has changed in the meantime.
>> No. 3270 [Edit]
File 169617514742.jpg - (718.68KB , 1480x1200 , 3639bf1d396d740ed63fa8ec816c4782.jpg )
3270
I want to self-host an imageboard, but I'm not sure what hardware would be best. Something cheap, reliable and fast(for what I'm doing) would be ideal. As far as I can tell, I have 3 options.

1. A sbc, like the "le potato" + a micro sd card + accessories
This option is the cheapest at slightly below $100, but it's the least powerful, and not so much cheaper than the other options. From what I understand, any mico sd card will be slower and less reliable than an ssd.

2. A mini PC with a mobile CPU, like beelink's. This is somewhat below $200. I'll get way more ram and storage, and a faster CPU than option 1.

3. A refurbished "mini desktop", like an hp elitedesk. This is slightly above $100. It's used though, so that's a bit of a gamble. Even though the cpu is like 8 years old now, it's still more powerful than the new mobile cpus you'll find in a cheap beelink. That's frustrating.

So yeah, what do?
>> No. 3281 [Edit]
>>3270
If you have an old smartphone you're not using anymore but that still works, you could throw Termux on it and just use that until you have some more spare money. I don't know how secure that would be, but the handful of posts per day that you can expect from a fledgling image board shouldn't be a problem for any phone from the last 5 years or so, unless the software is very poorly programmed and uses too much RAM.

Which imageboard software are you going to use, btw?
>> No. 3282 [Edit]
File 169888455429.png - (156.55KB , 400x400 , clip+(2023-11-01+at+08_47_12).png )
3282
>>3281
My imageboard is actually online right now. I blog posted about the whole process in bits and pieces.
>>/ot/41832
>>/ot/41852
>>/cr/3517

The smart phone I'm using now is the only one I've ever had, but thanks for thesuggestion. Briefly considered using an old iPad, but there's were some show-stoppers with that.
>> No. 3283 [Edit]
File 169912334470.jpg - (2.17MB , 3704x2658 , 537c369afcd56daaf53f7044c581bb39.jpg )
3283
>>3283
Last night, my computer abruptly started having DHCP issues while using a wired connection(moca); over wi-fi everything is fine. Decided to wait until the next day to see if it fixes itself. It didn't, so I restarted my router and reset winsock and ip and all that on my computer. That allowed me to have an ip6 addresses, but for some reason I couldn't get an ip4 addresses. I tried every thing I could find in guides and even asked chat-gpt. Eventually, I gave up and set my ip4 address, gateway, subnetmask prefix length, etc. manually.

Post edited on 4th Nov 2023, 2:13pm
>> No. 3284 [Edit]
>>3283
It randomly started working again today sometime after I tried turning my router's moca support off and on again.
>> No. 3298 [Edit]
File 170210273853.jpg - (504.14KB , 1024x768 , ef81da61eb82d7d0495ac23e61c54475.jpg )
3298
New to PCs. I have an ITX motherboard with ALC4080 HD Audio. The back of it has an M.2 slot, so I got to thinking I could buy an M.2 to PCIE cable, and put a soundcard on that. Problem is I have no idea whether that would improve anything.

I use mid-tier iems(Aria) and was thinking about the Sound Blaster Audigy RX. Advice on this would be much appreciated.

Post edited on 8th Dec 2023, 10:19pm
>> No. 3299 [Edit]
>>3298
not a pc builder person, but aren't these both just DACs? Seems like you'd be better off using that money to buy a better speaker instead, since I highly doubt you're going to notice any difference between the two.
>> No. 3300 [Edit]
>>3299
>aren't these both just DACs
I guess? I'm not really sure. Feature-wise, I think they're distinct from products marketed as a DAC. They're also inside of your computer, which I prefer.
>buy a better speaker
By speaker, do you mean audio listening devices in general? Sure I could do that, but I'd like to know all my options for improving things.
>> No. 3301 [Edit]
As I understand it essentially is a DAC though, just built into the pc. When you plug in a headphone into your headphone jack, something needs to convert your digital PCM signal into an analogue waveform and supply voltage to drive the speakers, and that is the soundcard. I'm sure people will be eager to sell you soundcards claiming it'll improve audio quality or whatever, but I have not yet seen a compelling argument as to why it would be beneficial; and until I do I'll lump it in the audiophile snake oil category.

Pretty much the only argument I can see for a fancy sound card is if you have some special speaker setup (high impedance, or need surround sound). Maybe there's some argument to be made about fancier soundcards having better EMF shielding or something, but I'm skeptical of that unless it can be shown quantitatively .

>do you mean audio listening devices in general
Well whatever you're going to plug into your computer to listen to the audio. And if you're using headphones supposedly most of the audiophiles use an external DAC anyway as opposed to an internal way (this does have some benefit in that it's portable so you can use the same setup with your phone/laptop/whatever).
>> No. 3302 [Edit]
File 170211319841.png - (119.10KB , 1428x624 , it matters.png )
3302
>>3301
This guy seems pretty convinced. I know different sound cards can differ in fidelity at least.

edit: Looking at more reviews from all over, I'm starting to have doubts.
>The main value of this card is that between the e-mu chip and the alchemy drivers you can still get hardware 3D audio on modern systems. Testing only "does it sound good" is something you would worry about in the 90's. Today almost all consumer audio hardware is more or less perfect in that regard. This is a retro gaming card.

conversely...
>The 106db is one of the least important things about the card, yes it does have some importance (in this case, is means that the older 106db is going to usually sound a tad bit more warm/nice/fussy which is good when dealing with PC sound. But I have heard newer onboard sound with a much better DB, that sounded a lot worse!
>What happens with sound is that, when you clean it up so much be removing distortion, and still have bad/weak/small onboard parts, it just sounds like plastic, and that is okay as long as you play games and mostly only deal with sound effects, but for REAL music, you notice that it does not quite have that little bit of magic that draws you in.

Post edited on 9th Dec 2023, 1:37am
>> No. 3303 [Edit]
>This guy seems pretty convinced.
That guy seems to not know what he is talking about, because unless I'm completely out of the water then mentioning HDMI is a non-sequitur. If you're outputting HDMI, you're transferring digital audio and hence bypassing the sound card entirely. Well I suppose a soundcard could offer a dedicated hdmi jack or whatever, but the quality of the soundcard won't matter, it's just transferring digital data.

And I have not seen any technical argument from him as to why an EMU10K1 DSP is superior to whatever bargain bin chinesium probably comes built in by default. As I understand DACs are basically a solved problem; the signal processing theory behind them is well understood [1], so there really can't be much different between them besides maybe tweaks in the FIR parameters used.

Also looking at Amazon reviews is the worst way to buy something. At least look at the hydrogenaudio forums.

[1] https://www.ti.com/lit/pdf/slaa523
>> No. 3304 [Edit]
File 170251894966.jpg - (79.43KB , 950x462 , c17b7e7203a22d11cea2e7fe263d35d1.jpg )
3304
>>3303
I asked on an audiophile forum and got a somewhat in depth answer.
https://audiophilestyle.com/forums/topic/69096-m2-to-pcie-to-add-a-sound-card-is-there-any-benefit-over-onboard-audio/

The main thing being
>Benefits of PCIe sound card over USB audio devices
>Lower latency : It contributes competitive gaming, lower sound latency means more wins. Sound monitoring feedback for musician requires 10ms or smaller latency. I read somewhere, on some special hardware/software combination, it is possible to achieve ~1ms latency with PCIe cards.
>Multichannel output for movie watching: It is related to #1, lower latency means less prone to exhibit lip sync problems. Many PCIe sound cards have 7.1ch analog out. But more serious movie fans use HDMI and dolby atmos AV amp rather than PCIe sound card

>Modern onboard sound is sometimes surprisingly good. Still, Its amplifier has lower damping factor than better quality external sound cards, it means external sound cards provide slightly tighter bass.
>If your motherboard audio implementation is not good and/or your IEM has high sensitivity, you may hear constant hiss noise on quiet passage or, beep/buzz noise when mouse moves. Better quality external sound card provides lower hiss.

I haven't noticed any hiss, but "tighter bass" sounds pretty good. At the very least, it probably wont hurt, and based on anecdotal evidence, it does sound better. So if I have an extra $200 bucks at some point, I'll get an AE-7, since cheaping out of this makes it more likely it'll be completely pointless.
>> No. 3318 [Edit]
File 170568790137.jpg - (2.36MB , 2639x4096 , F8o5tGlbkAAtQHp.jpg )
3318
How can I manually backup gave save data from android 8.0.0? When I connect it to my computer it doesn't show the game folders. I know there's some fuckery with hidden folders in android but how do i get to see them and transfer them to my pc?
>> No. 3319 [Edit]
>>3318
I believe to do this without root, only approach is via adb. See https://gist.github.com/AnatomicJC/e773dd55ae60ab0b2d6dd2351eb977c1.
>> No. 3350 [Edit]
File 170863329186.png - (71.76KB , 1892x620 , example.png )
3350
Spammers have figured out they can circumvent url blacklists by using paste sites. This wouldn't be a problem if those had spam prevention, but for some reason, that isn't the norm. The only solution I can think of is creating a list of paste sites where this isn't a problem, and informing users about it, so they wont be surprised if one they try to use is blacklisted.

This still isn't optimal since many(most) users will probably ignore any such list.

edit: another solution could be getting the contents of linked-to sites and checking those for spam.

edit2: looking at it closer, this new spam links to pastes which don't have spam links either, but telegra dot ph and bitaps dot com addresses.

Post edited on 22nd Feb 2024, 12:36pm
>> No. 3351 [Edit]
>>3350
>many(most) users will probably ignore any such list.
If users don't read the rules, the content they were going to post probably wasn't very high quality anyway.
>> No. 3376 [Edit]
File 17105813132.png - (61.15KB , 1507x930 , 404.png )
3376
>>165
Apparently you can't visit tohno-chan if you have HTTPS-only enabled on your browser. You are generally left with the opt-in choice to ignore self-signed certs or lack thereof but not for tohno-chan. I had to disable the feature or I'd get redirected to a sort of 404 page from DreamHost. Do you know if there is a way to add an exception for this website while keeping HTTPS-only enabled?
>> No. 3377 [Edit]
File 171058200248.png - (31.76KB , 878x828 , exceptions.png )
3377
>>3376
Oh nevermind, I did it. I had to manually add these exceptions to the list. Not visiting the HTTP version won't forcefully redirect me to the DreamHost HTTPS 404 page
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